Upcoming Timber-tech Project

wallmaxx

A few questions for Mac or Bonesaw

I will be doing this deck (finally) in Timber-Tech, picture framed.

Here's the sample pieces they chose. In Progress

The TT has a slotted groove along both edges for their hidden fasteners.
For the outer edge should I get a few planks that have no slots, or do you know if they have a good option for this situation (like raised skirt board)?

I'm not driving the "artistic" look of this one. I just want to know what headaches I might run into if I just say "sure I can put it on like that."

Thanks...I'm off to scour the TT website.

Mike

BuiltByMAC

Hey guy, caught me on my way out the door... Bonesaw's probably half-way through his day by now!

TT Earthwoods fascia comes 11 1/2" tall so you could pull it up flush w/ the top of the decking to hide the grooved edges. It would still completely cover your framing and you could edge screw the outer-most board so you'd have no visible fasteners. The other thing going for this method is if you have to rip the outermost decking to fit the framing, the fascia would hide the ripped edge. This is a nice look - kinda picture frames the decking...

You'd have less problems working around those 6x posts w/ this option too...

Other option is, if you planned the framing to have your decking overhang by a couple of inches, get a non-grooved board for the outermost board, cut a slot on the inside (router w/ slot-cutter bit or biscuit joiner) and run screws up through the rim joist into the bottom of the outer edge to secure the board. Fascia would then butt up underneath the outer board.

If the angled joist (where the deck goes around the corner) isn't a 4x, you might want to add blocking on one side so both runs of decking ends have a solid 1 1/2" to sit on.

Gotta run, have a good one!

Mac

wallmaxx

Tnx Mac

U Da Man

I'll draw a sketch of what they want...then we'll see how I manage as a noob deck man. It takes a whole different mind set for finish work. Like put down the knurl faced framing hammer.

BuiltByMAC

Was thinking about this a bit over the day, pulling that fascia up flush with the top of the decking will cover the ends where you'd see the grooved edges (I marked in white). Without the fascia covering them, you'd either have to run a border board or have the grooved ends exposed (not pretty).

A 6' piece of 2x6 and a mini-sledge do a pretty good job of coaxing the decking onto the ConcealLoc clips, just don't hit 'em as hard as when you're laying 1 1/8" flooring!

Feel free to give me a yell if you run into questions while on the jobsite...

Mac

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Bone Saw

agree with everything mac said except the half way part (actually had a picnic and nap in the park with my sweetie yesterday)
few things I'll add and hopefully I may leart a thing or to in this thread:
Ive never been a fan of running comp facia up to the top of the decking for one reason, is just isnt robust enough and dimentionally stable enough to stay looking good for long. it will eventually have a ****ty/wavey looking gap between the deck board and the facia. I like doing one of two ways, either a 1" nose reveal for the deck boards(wont look good with a grooved board) or essentially doing the same thing but with a decking board instead of facia, which will give a nice extra dimension/reveal to the perimeter, plus is will stay looking good down the road. you could either use facia to cover the rim with the "deck board facia" over top, or no facia capped rim and stain it for a spot on match or contrast. just not a fan of facia unless its "fully sandwiched"
why the avantech on the roof and not the walls?

neolitic

No expert with plastic by any means,
but playing with its possibilities in
my mind(a small playing field),
I wonder about rabbeting the bottom
half of the outer deck board to lip
over the fascia...
could be a pretty clean look, no?

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Aframe

I used Timbertech grooved XLM on a project this spring. We picture framed with solid planks to hide the groves and for solid edges. No fascia, ground level platform
Got the same boards,all River Rock color but the shade was off just a bit between solid and grooved planks. Just something to look for if you go that way

ps. Chop up a bunch of 2x4 blocks and have your frame gun handy.
If you have runs longer than your plank lengths, you need to add blocks at the joints to catch the clips

wallmaxx

The Lindal Package came with all the plywood included. There wasn't any AdvanTech wall sheathing in WA state when the GC wanted to swap it out...but he snagged 5/8" AdvanTech for the roof and turned in the 1/2" CDX to his lumber vendor. And the rafters are 2x12 on 16" centers...that roof doesn't even deflect when I get my BIG butt up there.

Thanks for the pro input. I shall take many pix.

Bone Saw

looks like a solid project, post pix for sure

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Greg Di

Wall,

I don't think toe screwing TT is a warranty-approved method of installing decking if that's what you were thinking of doing. Use the ConceaLOCs for a HFS.

If you must face screw Earthwoods, the one screw I can recommend that works perfectly is SplitStop Titan III. No mushrooming at all.

But, Earthwoods is too nice to face screw. Use HFS. Face screwing is for savages in 2008!

As far as dealing with the edges, picture frame it as Mac said. Run the outermost board 1-1/2 beyond the rim and push the fascia up underneath it. It will look like this:

http://picasaweb.google.com/FineHome...27791004917938

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send_it_all

That's pretty fancy work, Gregory.

Greg Di

The only person that calls me Gregory is my mother!

Thanks though!

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MartyCD

We have had problems on installations where the fascia is brought up even with the decking. Stuff gets in behind there, things move, etc.

MALCO.New.York

.................

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neolitic

Again, I wonder what's wrong with this?
If you are picture framing, and using
the edge grooved boards anyway,
why not rout the bottom edge away
and slip the fascia up under the
outside deck board.
I've never been a fan of pulling
the fascia up flush on wood decks
for the reasons Marty mentioned.
This looks like one of the advantages
of plastic, and I'd like to learn something
from the plastic experts here.

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MartyCD

I can't think of anything wrong with it, except that the fascia is maybe a little thicker than the groove is deep. Most mfrs including us and TT have gone to thicker and thicker fascia as we've hard warping problems with the thinner stuff.
Some composite decking mfrs e.g. GeoDeck make an L-shaped profile that goes over that outside corner. But in my experience those small profiles don't hang on the deck for too long.