Triple Beam To 6x6 Post Connection

Danno6102

I have a triple 2x12 beam on hopefully my next build. I always notch my 6x6 3" for the double beams. I've never used a (3) Ply before & was wondering what do you do for your triples, stick with the 3" notch & let the one 2x12 hang past the post? Sketch attached.

Thanks,
Dan

Attached Files

Beam Detail.pdf (6.2 KB, 1303 views)

genecarp

as a habit we usually dont leave any part of a header in the wind, can you add a 2by6 to the side, and trans down to load bearing point?

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Greg Di

Put the whole 3 ply beam directly over the 6x6 post and use a metal post/girder connector. Works like a champ.

Depending on the actual thickness of your girder, you may want to add a piece of 1/2" PT ply where the connector interfaces the girder to compensate for the fact that the girder might be thinner than the connector.

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Chris G

Do you guys add spacers for air circulation between the boards?

DecksEtc

Ditto.

I've also used the connectors that come in two pieces. The Simpson LPCZ ones. I find these work well when the beam is smaller than the post.

As to Chris' question about the spacer, I've never done that. I'm pretty sure that code doesn't allow them either.

Also, a word of advice about the triple beam - build yourself a double beam first and then add the third ply when the double is up on the posts. Unless you've got a REALLY big crew working for you, you don't want to lift that triple beam into place from the ground! Trust me!!!

BuiltByMAC

I would think the optimal strength would be having the boards glued and screwed tightly together, in essence creating a laminated beam.
Cover the top of the beam w/ flashing tape (Grace Vycor or the like)
no circulation needed...

Mac

Danno6102

That's sort of what I was concerned about getting the entire beam over the post. So, I think I'll use a CC51/4x6 Simpson Tie. Should do the trick. I think I am going to glue them too.

Good advice on building a double first. It'll be close to 24' long, so even the double will be a back breaker.

Thanks guys!
Dan

Attached Images

 

BuiltByMAC

Pick up the CCQ5-4, it uses 2 1/2" SDS screws instead of carriage bolts. Much faster install than drilling holes and bolting...
Exterior glue and structural screws and she'll be a solid behemoth!

Using H1s to attach the joists to the beam means you don't have to puncture the beam-top flashing tape with toenails (or toescrews)...

One nice thing about these connectors is they give you a cradle for your beam when lifting it in place (no worries about one end sliding off the notched 6x while you're monkeying around with the other end!).

Mac

Danno6102

I saw those. I thought the bolted connection would look nicer. Underdeck is exposed. I always use the H1 & H2.5 on the joists too. I have about 100 of them to nail on on my next deck. Glad I have a PP nailer! Trick is remembering to put the Vycor on before you nail the H1's on the beam. Otherwise the vycor kicks up at the connectors rather than draping down over the edge of the beam like it should.

Greg Di

For laminating plys, I have been using Fastenmaster Trusslok screws. They are specifically designed for building multi-ply beams out of dimensional lumber.

Very fast. Very robust.

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odellconstruct

whats the size of the deck that your building ? if you knotch a 6x6 on both sides and use , simpson brackets and 1/2 lag bolts in each 6x6/header attachements , take in consideration the span of each post , im sure if you span them 8ft 2 -2x12 notched can hold the weight.dont have the specs in front of me .any framing book ou there should cover the load requirments

Aframe

you should check your allowable notch sizes for the doubles too

a 3" notch in a 6x6 post = inspection failure

sit on top as already said

Danno6102

This is an allowable connection & I would think it is in most parts of the country. It's even specified as a proper connection in that Residential Deck Guide the American Forest & Paper Association just released. Which a lot of juristictions have adopted as their guide & oddly enough is entitled "Design for Code Compliance". It states that it is based on the IRC & any provisions contained in the document not included in the IRC are considered good practice recommendations. So, I think I'm good.

I had to span close to 11'-0" so the post did not block a large window below. 60psf Live Load & 20 psf Dead Load. I had to hit 440 plf. (3) 2x12 is rated at 473 for a 12' span according to the Southern Pine Council span table.

Aframe

Danno

If your post ends at the beam your installing, you are right. Ive seen people doing 3 decker porches notch them in, thats what I was going for.

RobertCDF

It still should work as long as the beam fills the entire notch tightly. It all carries weight through it. If the beam is tight fitting and the building department is failing it then they need to hire better engineers.

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Robert Shaw
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