Trex Railings

nywoodwizard

My customer is starting to drive me to drink,we plan on building a small deck,first she wants wood railing,then pvc ,now she wants some type of composite railing ,to match the decking,Trex. does trex even make a railings ?Anybody know where to get this stuff? I'm in lindenhurst,long island.thanks.

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BreyerConstruct

trex.com

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nywoodwizard

I meant a local supplier,but thats alright i found a place that sells it locally.I don't work with composite railings,generally pvc or wood.whats the best method to assemble and install, trim screws? It doesn't look like it takes nails very well.

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BuiltByMAC

I'd definitely recommend getting a signed change order when she makes up her mind - TREX railing systems aren't cheap and you don't want to try and return it after she changes her mind again.

There's three types of TREX railing systems - Artisan, Designer and Traditional. Which one are you looking at using?

If you're going with Designer or Traditional, you might see if she's interested in metal balusters instead of the TREX balusters. Their 2x2s just look clunky as hell (to me) and are difficult to see through. Aluminum balusters (like deckorators - http://www.deckorators.com/Classic-Baluster.htm)
look very nice with the Designer series handrail components. Oh, and they're less expensive - $2/per instead of 2.40/per so even though it's not a material upgrade, it could be sold as an upgrade.

This first picture is of my back deck with TREX Designer series handrail components in Win. Grey and Deckorators Classic balusters in Black.
The second picture is of a client's deck I did w/ LP WeatherBest decking/railing. The second pic is more like what TREX Traditional series handrails would look like w/ Deckorator balusters.
Artisan handrail systems are a completely different beast - you have to use all their components and it's a snap together system. I personally don't like the look but hey, that's just my opinion.

If you're going with the TREX balusters, follow the directions on the site for attaching the balusters to the bottom rail (pre drill and screw up into balusters from the underside of the bottom rail) but for the top rail, instead of nailing the tops of the balusters through the side of the top rail (VERY VISIBLE), pre drill the tops of the balusters at a 45º angle and run screws up into the underside of the top rail. Since you're installing balusters one at a time and before you mount the top/bottom rails to the handrail posts, you will have no problem getting those screws tucked up out of sight. See my second attachment - red lines indicate screws through tops of balusters at 45º angle into underside of top rail, completely out of sight.

Hopefully my description makes sense...

Mac

Attached Images

   

y0manda

nywoodwizard

I fully understand,i to would use screws to,finish nails may be faster but i look for longevity also.The aluminum balusters look nice but we already choose the 2x2's designer series.Its kinda of stupid for the railings not to have the wood grain texture like the decking,but thats what they want,thats what they get.Unfortunatly the darker color decking appears to mar very easy.Looks good now but i can only imagine what its going to look like in a year or so.I've done lighter color composite decking before(evergrain),now its evident to me its the best choice.The trex railings are about double the cost of what i get my pvc railings for,which is what i pushed them to get,mostly because there is no contrast with all dark colors and i don't think it looks very good.Not to mention i have all my pvc railings made to order for the top and stairs, the pvc post and rails are routered to the degree i need,so installaion time is cut in half,makes my job easier.I now have to adjust the installation cost.I informed the customer and they have no problem with the additional cost.I've done about 5-6 projects for them already,i wish all my customers were like them.Before i can get all the words "i need a check" come out of my mouth there already writing it out. thanks

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nywoodwizard

I've seen this template before and although it may be good for the straight railings it looks very impractical for the stair rails just from looking at your pictures.(deck looks nice thought)

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SuperiorBuilt

I would call Nassau Suffolk lumber , Riverhead Building Supply and Allied Building Supply for a local supplier in Suffolk County

nywoodwizard

I should of just went to Nassau Suffolk lumber ,i didn't realize they were on the way to the job, job site was in miller place, i take North ocean ave,Nassau Suffolk lumber is only 2-3 exits before.I've already picked up the railings ,I'm just waiting for the post to come in. I need to get this job buttoned up ,i got two balcony decks to do this week and i have plans to go to Virginia beach on the 28th,not much time left. Here's what i got done so far.

Attached Images

 

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SuperiorBuilt

There is also a Nassau Suffolk location by Port jeff train station too. It is about 5 minutes from 25A and Noth ocean Avenue.
The deck looks nice
Steve

RobertCDF

What kind of PT is that? It sure does not look like the trash we get around here. ACQ hem-fir or SYP and wolmanized are about the only thing we have here and that stuff is horrible.

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nywoodwizard

Its probably because of the new chemicals they are treating it with now,that it looks a bit different.Sometimes the stuff here don't look so great either,but i am very picky and will go thru quite a bit and pick the choice ones for the rim boards and stair parts.

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nywoodwizard

Thanks, I ended up going to East Islip lumber,there not too far from were i live and they stock everything i need.I went on nassau suffolk lumbers web site and it showed they carry trex railings but when i called they said they don'y carry it anymore,i told them then maybe its time to remove it off your web site.

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perfectwish

I have a customer interested in the Trex Designer railings and Deckorator balasters. How are the balasters connected to the Trex top and bottom rails ? Did you use the plastic connectors or drill the rails ? What size balasters did you use, 26'' or the larger size ? Thanks.

BuiltByMAC

I just screwed the plastic connectors to the top/bottom rails. The connectors I had in my shop were about 6 months old and hid completely under the balusters.




I know they've got some new connectors out for the Deckorators baluster that are flared at the bottom. I don't know if those will fit under the top rail but they might pretty up the bottom rail.




I used 26" balusters.

Mac

RobertCDF

The new connectors fade if you get the colored ones... I also think that drilling them is a little better. I have had to go and glue ones where the connector screw broke off. If you have the drill press, drill them if you dont just use the connectors they work ok.

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perfectwish

Mac, how high from the deck were your railings, using the Trex Designer Top/Bottom rail kit with 26" Deckorator balasters ? I am trying to get to 36".

BreyerConstruct

I'd kindly suggest getting a few resources on building decks, and code.

You're allowed 4" from the deck to the bottom rail. Add in the 26" baluster, and you're up to 30". Now it's just a matter of what you use & how it's set up for the railing pieces. For example, a 2x4 Cedar bottom & top rail will put you just over 36", and higher if there's a cap rail on top.

Just sit down, think it thru, draw it out, and then do the math.

Also, make sure you don't take on a project that's over your head for where you are right now- that's advice we all have to remember, no matter where in life we are!

Best wishes,
~Matt

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nywoodwizard

Not with out a large toe space i would think unless another style top and bottom rail is used

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BuiltByMAC

33 1/4" - I wasn't worried about hitting the 36" code with this one! For a taller deck, I'd use the longer Deckorator balusters or a different setup.


Also, for longer handrail sections, install some shorty baluster sections below the bottom rail for intermediate support - composite railings really like to sag!



Mac