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07-07-2007, 04:58 PM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
Porch and Deck Builder
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,448
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Treating end grain joints
I'm doing a cedar deck with a picture frame border. Do you suggest gapping the mitered corners to let the ends breath, or do you treat with a sealer and butt them? Hope that makes sense. The first place I tend to see rot on decking is at the butt joints, hence the question.
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07-07-2007, 05:48 PM
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#2
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Electro-Mech. Contr.
Trade:
Mechanical Contractor
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 761
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When I did my last deck I didn't seal them but I used a polyglue and biscuts on the mitered frame ends. The butt joints in the field of the deck I used a lapped mitre. My exwife still has the house and the deck is seven years old and going strong, not like she ever powerwashes it or seals it anymore.
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"Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere" mlk
100% Union and Proud of It
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11-14-2009, 10:41 AM
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#3
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John Hyatt
Trade:
out door areas, decks,spa room additions,fire pits
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,087
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With end grain joints I use tighbond 111, rub/pat the glue into both sides and wait..... the grain will suck up the glue..then put the glue on again. This is a very old trim trick. J.
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11-14-2009, 03:04 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Repair/Remodel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 911
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If you gap it, it will look like hell. I suppose you could put a clear sealer on it, but I'd be leary of it showing through. I always just glue and screw my corners. Maintain it with a high quality stain applied every couple years is the only way I can think of to make it last forever. Or build it out of iron wood instead of cedar.
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11-14-2009, 05:18 PM
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#5
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Pro
Trade:
Repair/Remodel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kestrel38
Glueing joints is often thought of as a solution by carpenters but what must be remembered is that lumber needs to move. If you glue something so well the lumber will split when it expands and later contracts.
Mitre, fix and preserve as you install would be answer but not glue. 
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That's true, but it depends on your design. I saw someone glue a 1x mitered column wrap, and after a few days, the wood split but the miters stayed together. I did a mitered column wrap with glued corners, but I cut it a quarter inch big to allow for shrinkage, attached it with thin finish nails that could bend while the wood shrinks. I think it worked, but I haven't gone back to look at it.
Wood shrinks very little length wise though, it shrinks width wise the most. I've never seen an issue with shrinking and cracking when gluing end grain miters.
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11-14-2009, 05:32 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Porch and Deck Builder
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,448
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Considering this is a two year post I can't even remember what I did. I think I mitred them tight. No glue.
It's in my 'hood, so I'll take a pic and you can see what it looks like now. My guess is that the heel has opened up.
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11-14-2009, 05:38 PM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Repair/Remodel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 911
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Cool, didn't notice the date.
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11-14-2009, 06:27 PM
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#8
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John Hyatt
Trade:
out door areas, decks,spa room additions,fire pits
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,087
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After 30 years in the trades , 20 of them building outdoor areas and 12 of them working with S American lumber I have never had an endgrain joint fail because it cant move.
Keeping it from moving is the whole idea!! Kest,,thats the stupid to the max post.
In fact the more I think about it the more stupid it gets. Most Carpenters make a mistake gluing up wood Joints???? DMF J.
Last edited by John Hyatt; 11-14-2009 at 07:13 PM.
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11-30-2009, 06:50 PM
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#9
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New Guy
Trade:
Finish Carpentry, Woodworking, Cabinets
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hyatt
After 30 years in the trades , 20 of them building outdoor areas and 12 of them working with S American lumber I have never had an endgrain joint fail because it cant move.
Keeping it from moving is the whole idea!! Kest,,thats the stupid to the max post.
In fact the more I think about it the more stupid it gets. Most Carpenters make a mistake gluing up wood Joints???? DMF J.
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Someone was reading my mind
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Matt Fuller
Prestige Remodeling
"Do it once, do it right."
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12-02-2009, 08:51 PM
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#10
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Mr know it all....not
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chester County PA
Posts: 63
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I've had very good results using Tite Bond III on s.american lumber, but its getting colder and it does not seem to set up properly below about 50 degrees.
Can anyone recommend an alternative that may work better in colder temperatures?
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"Well, sir, opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one." -Clint
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12-03-2009, 12:15 AM
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#11
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Curmudgeon
Trade:
carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,665
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This...
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Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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12-03-2009, 12:37 AM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,464
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Gorilla Glue, follow instructions and trim off the excess. Polyurathanes are bad A, I've been working with them for over 30 yrs.
Wear some latex or vinyl gloves if you don't want it on you until you shed it.
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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.
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12-03-2009, 07:54 AM
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#13
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John Hyatt
Trade:
out door areas, decks,spa room additions,fire pits
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,087
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The monkey glue folks also make an two part epoxie that works well. Nothing about temp at all in the instrustions I have used it in 40 degree weather set up time was about 10 min but I kept the clamps on over night. J.
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