Seeking Advice.

send_it_all

I am a GC, but I mostly specialize in interior remodeling. Kitchens, baths,etc. I got a call yesterday from a potential customer who had a project started by another contractor. The job consists of filling in the opening of a 2nd story loft, and also adding a second story balcony that is cantilevered off of the floor joists. The contractor was "fired" by the HO because he failed to permit the job. Even though he has done what looks like 10-12k worth of labor already. The framing has been done, but I have a couple of issues/concerns about the job.

1. Part of the cantilevered balcony doesn't meet the 2:1 overhang ratio, meaning that about 3 of the joists dont extend far enough into the house to be twice as far as it hangs out. This part is not going to be a big deal to re-do.

2. The part of the job that I am unsure about, and will almost definitely sub out, is waterproofing the balcony where it meets the house. I would like to know the best method to do this. What type of flashing etc. The way the balcony was done was to remove the rim joist from the 2nd floor joists, and sister new 2x12s to extend out to create the floor joists of the balcony. Then I assume blocking was put into the gaps between joists...I didn't look at it very closely today. It looks like it was done well except for the part that doesn't extend in far enough. There is an existing window that will be turned into a slider to access the balcony and I want to brush up on my knowledge of how this should be waterproofed, and what type of deck coating would be best to use.

Anyway, where I'm at now is: I just went to take a look for the first time today. The 1st contractor did his work with no plans or permits. The Homeowner says that he had an inspector come out and look at it and said it all looked good withthe exception of part of the cantilever. So the HO wants me to:
Get an engineer to draw plans so i can pull permits.
Finish the balcony
Add the slider
Relocate a window.
Finish the top and bottom side of the new floor that filled the open loft area. (sub-floor/hardwood above and drywall lid below...there looks to be some interference with joist hangers hanging down a bit)
Add receps to code where loft area had floor put in. (used to be high wall).
I need to move some elect. that runs under window that will become slider.
This will be a good job for me to get my feet wet with a little exterior work.

Just mainly looking for advice about the waterproofing and if any of you have any tips/things to watch out for during this job, all comments are welcome...Thanks.

neolitic

There's a world of difference between here and SoCal, but here's what I know. If you don't have LOT'S of experience with flashing find someone who does. I won't do a cantilever without at least a 1" step down, floor to deck. We use SS flashing over joist, but you might check into copper. Research a really thorough pan flashing system for the door. And remember, paranoia is a good thing if something is trying to bite you. My take is flashing ,flashing, flashing---I've seen so many ways that this can be screwed up!
Good luck
Tinner probably has good advice for you.

Tmrrptr

This is a lawsuit waiting to happen!
At least it would be here in CA.

Charge the client for consulting.
Pull a fee for consulting and engage an engineering architect
to draw up those plans and don't drive a nail without a permit!
r
take plenty before & during pictures.

Bone Saw

I can certainly give you advise on how to deal with flashing this, but I wont. I'm with Tmprrr on this one
sounds like the project started as a goatf*#k, and purely from contracting/buisness/profit/warrenty/liability standpoint, picking up what was left off, will end as a goatf*#k
my .02

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send_it_all

I appreciate the feedback. I told the HO up front that I would go as far as finding out what the engineer would charge for the drawings for free. (BTW, the HO gave me the original prints for the house, so that should help a bit.)
I told him that as soon as I had a price for the drawing of the plans that both me and the engineer need to be paid. Also, if he didn't tell me that he had an inspector out to say that what was there looked ok, I probably would have walked away. I do intend to try to get another inspection before I do any work. Like I said, the work that was already done actually looks pretty good. It's very sturdy..lots of doubled up 2x12s...Anyway, my plan would be to charge T&M until I get to a point where I know the inspector is fine with it, then estimate the rest of the job. I was mostly concerned about the flashing, which as I said, will be subbed out. I would just like to know what I'm saying when I talk to a sub about it.

Bone Saw

are you stoned or just plumb stupid? ill give u credit if thats what u really want

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neolitic

Gee, I gave credit to too much sun on Bone's bald head

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