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12-07-2005, 10:39 PM
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#1
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Remodeler
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 805
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railing corners
Hey Decks,
This might seem like a simple question but I'd like to find the answer.
When I build railings I generally use notched 4x4 posts one on the corners and one every 4' or less. I have a problem with the corners lining up. I've gotten around it by adding a 2x4 to the one side of the corners but I don't like the look of it. What do you guys do on the corners to make them line up with the next side? I'd like to better this before next spring.
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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
Website One Man Shop
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12-07-2005, 10:45 PM
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#2
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Chief Toilet Mover
Trade:
Bathroom Remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Posts: 11,758
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Two posts one on each side of the corner or even better if you can, the post running down to the footer becomes the post. Or mount the post on the inside of the framing directly in the corner, or... lots of choices
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12-07-2005, 10:56 PM
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#3
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Pro
Trade:
Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 5,551
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I don't notch the posts, - - I run them continuous to the footings as Mike says, - - and the top of the rim (face) boards become picture framing for the decking.
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12-07-2005, 11:01 PM
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#4
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Deck Designer/Builder
Trade:
Deck Design & Construction
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Whitby, Ontario
Posts: 2,138
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If the posts are on the inset into the deck then they just go inside the frame and they all line up. Doing them inside the frame makes for a lot more cutting of deck boards though. You have to do it that way if the deck is higher than 8' here.
I'm assuming from your question that you're talking about putting the posts on the outside of the frame - a method/look that I prefer actually. What I do for the corners is notch out a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square on the inside corner of the post up 6" from the bottom of the post. I set my circular saw to 1 1/2" deep and then chisel out the portion that doesn't get cut. Then another thing I do is cut a 1" 45 deg. angle off the bottom outer side of the post. The picture somewhat shows the finished look. Also, the deck boards are notched out back to the frame so the post sits flush to the frame and on top of the deck.
Did I explain that well enough?
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Last edited by DecksEtc; 02-08-2006 at 02:32 PM.
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12-08-2005, 06:25 AM
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#5
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Remodeler
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 805
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I have been using prenotched posts. From what your explaining you notch yours yourself. Is this correct? If so I suppose I could get the same effect if I were to make my corners myself instead of using pre notched. I don't like placing the posts inside either. And running them continuously from the footings are not always possible with overhangs.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
Website One Man Shop
I will never leave you hanging!
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12-08-2005, 11:09 AM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
Carpentry
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Delaware
Posts: 274
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by DecksEtc
What I do for the corners is notch out a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square on the inside corner of the post up 6" from the bottom of the post
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Decks,
Doesn't that give you a pretty weak corner post? I assume code requires you to lag it to the frame, but an 1 1/2" doesn't give you much space to shoot a lag--unless you're running them at angles.
Last edited by Woodcrafter74; 12-08-2005 at 04:26 PM.
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12-08-2005, 11:29 AM
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#7
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Pro
Trade:
Carpentry
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Delaware
Posts: 274
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Speaking of notched posts, how you guys do them? Does anyone use a SCM saw with a depth setting and run a set of kerfs and knock out of the slivers? Or do you use a hand held circ saw? I don't have a slider yet, but I'm getting one this month (tax write-off) and I figure that will make the process easier.
Just curious how everyone else does it.
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12-08-2005, 12:09 PM
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#8
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Remodeler
Trade:
Remodeler
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 805
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Wood,
I do my use my slider to notch them just like you mentioned. Unless I buy the pre notched rail posts. The slider does a good job. takes a bit of time but the depth gauge works well on my dewalt. From what i read here so far I will be notching my own going forward. It will also give me more control on the styles of the tops. I won't be turning the rounded ones when requested. They will be pre notched.
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Paul
Minichillo's Construction
Website One Man Shop
I will never leave you hanging!
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12-08-2005, 02:01 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
carpenter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 227
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we all probably like the time savings offered up by the prenotched post when the budget doesn't allow for anything nicer. if i have to cut them myself, a circular saw works fast enough.
i usually use 2 post in the corners to overcome the problem you have but instead of lagging, i always drill through and use carriage bolts. if you use carriage bolts, make sure you place the post far enough off the corners so the ends of the bolts don't hit each other. i usually cut the post at 34.5" over the top of the notch and install a 2x6 or 2x8 as a continous handrail. once you've tied the 2 bys together in the corners, your rail will be plenty stout.
how about using a double notched 6x6 in the corner? that would give you enough meat for fastners but would it look right??
good luck.
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12-08-2005, 04:41 PM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
Custom deck builder
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 2,962
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Some times I do posts on the inside of the framing, somtimes on the outside. On the outside ones I do the same as Decks. Notch in 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" leaving 2" x 2" and that is plenty for lags my corner posts are stronger than my line posts before the rails go on. By the time the job is done my rails do not move at all. Every inspector has been amazed at my rails. Take the time to add blocking at all your posts it will make the differance.
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12-08-2005, 06:03 PM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
Carpentry
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Delaware
Posts: 274
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Right, that notch leaves 2", not 1 1/2"--my mistake. That does make it better. And I didn't think of the strength that the railing adds too.
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12-08-2005, 07:45 PM
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#12
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Chief Toilet Mover
Trade:
Bathroom Remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Posts: 11,758
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You guys never saw the article that ran in deck builder magazine this summer where they tested all the post scenarios in a laboratory setting.
VERY INTERESTING and quite shocking. They did them very scientifically and not a single post scheme held up. Notching posts failed miserably as did posts with lag bolts, none came even close to holding up to the proper pressures applied. Basically the only post system that held up is using a bracket system on the inside of the framing with the posts bolted through to it.
If you ever see that article it might get you a bit nervous about all those post and rail systems you might have felt good about before.
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12-08-2005, 08:01 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
Custom deck builder
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 2,962
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Mike,
I saw that article were they tested a single post at a time. There is not much strength in one post but the whole railing system. I have found that with 2x10 framing, posts inside of framing 2 lag bolts through beam into post (top & bottom) and one (middle) through post into beam. Then solid blocking all around makes a real stout post. And I test all my rails by doing my best to wreck them. short of tying it to my truck and driving away.
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