Question: do you typically use peel and stick flashing between hangers and PT wood - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Btrbimmer · 10-06-2009, 06:05 PM

This came up on another thread, and it seems like it deserved its own.

do you typically use peel and stick flashing between all hangers and PT wood? Is this a common practice?

Also, I've seen some folks install flashing on top of beams to prevent water and debris from rotting the wood.

Does nyone believe its necessary?

woodworkbykirk · 10-06-2009, 06:24 PM

i was using ice and water behind the ledger to seal that contact point to protect against any leaks, but since switched to vycor.

i use the vycor on top of the ledger to break the contact between the pt lumber and the aluminum drip edge. ive seen aluminum turn to ash by pt quite a bit lately

SLSTech · 10-06-2009, 06:36 PM

PT Deck only - I generally don't worry about it as long as there is enough airflow
Composite decking, I would consider it a necessity (at least the tops - the hangers I am not sold on)
Building by the ocean - definitely needed for the tops & hangers or better yet go with Stainless Steel Hangers & fasteners

RobertCDF · 10-06-2009, 08:41 PM

I did with the old ACQ but the newer treated out there is better with less problems of corrosion. Another thing to keep in mind is humidity/moisture plays its role in the corrosion process. We have very little moisture and low humidity levels so we have less concern here that most.

neolitic · 10-06-2009, 11:00 PM

Check your tags and do some research.
If you are getting the new Micronized Copper
treated, corrosion isn't such a problem.

Sealing the tops of multiply beams is
probably a good idea.

**BuiltByMAC** · 10-07-2009, 01:16 AM

I started w/ flashing tape, then moved to spraying the hangers w/ PlastiDip. You can find it by the spray paint.

I usually cap my beams w/ flashing tape and metal flashing (the metal provides additional protection and a finished look to the beam).

I use solid sawn beams but I def. agree w/ Neo, capping a multi-ply beam is an absolute necessity.

Mac

Btrbimmer · 10-09-2009, 08:45 AM

Well, it looks like I missed the boat on this one. I asked around locally and no one uses flashing on the built up beams, but that doesn't mean it should not be done.

Any suggestions on protecting the beams after the joists are already in place? Maybe a roofing product that can be painted or sprayed on?

Its raining today...oh joy.

Thanks,

Brett

RobertCDF · 10-09-2009, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Btrbimmer

Well, it looks like I missed the boat on this one. I asked around locally and no one uses flashing on the built up beams, but that doesn't mean it should not be done.

Any suggestions on protecting the beams after the joists are already in place? Maybe a roofing product that can be painted or sprayed on?

Its raining today...oh joy.

Thanks,

Brett

I would go ahead and put it on in between, some is better than nothing. It might be a little bit of a pain but if you set up a place with marks to cut a bunch at 14 1/2" it will only take a few mins to put them in.

It would be ideal if you could lift the joists and slip the tape under.

neolitic · 10-09-2009, 01:23 PM

An extra shot of Cuprinol #12 between
couldn't hurt, and you will get at least
some penetration under the joist.

jeffaah · 10-09-2009, 05:02 PM

I use Vycor in top of joists, multiply beams and on the run cut of stair treads. I just replaced 3 sets of stairs where the stringers had rotted. Once the stinger is cut it leaves alot of unprotected wood. When ACQ was being used I would also protect the hangers with it. Now that MCQ is here, thats less of an issue.