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Old 04-17-2006, 03:33 PM   #1
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Nailer for fence slats

Dumb question:

What type of pneumatic nail gun (Stapler, Brad or Finish Nailer) do you use to attach fence slats to a picket fence? I am repairing a fence for a family member. Since I am doing it for free I didn’t want to pay one of my subs to do it. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Old 04-17-2006, 06:05 PM   #2
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I use ring shank 8d nails with a framing nailer...

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Old 04-17-2006, 06:20 PM   #3
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ring shank or screw shank 8s in a framer. if it is a standard 6ft dog eared privacy fence that contractors tend to put up i use medium crown 16ga staples. it all depends on how nice the customer wants it.

Last edited by Scott Young; 04-17-2006 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 05-06-2006, 06:12 PM   #4
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I agree with Bob 8d ring shank.
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Old 05-06-2006, 07:30 PM   #5
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Yep, and use stainless steel if it's cedar.
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Old 12-18-2006, 01:45 AM   #6
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Hi all - this is my first post on this forum. For what its worth, in Australia we generally use fixing/finishing guns (16guage) to attach pickets (65mmx19mm) to fences. If we are talking paling fences say 100mm and 150mm boards with a 1inch overlap for privacy we use coilers shooting 45mm clouts. Make sense ? Probably not
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:55 AM   #7
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I have a Makita an611 splitless nailer. Its awesome.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:37 PM   #8
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Nails are all well and good, but... Every fence I seem to come across lately, unless it's high quality, seems predisposed to twisting boards that seem to rip the nails right out of the rails. I always try to use stainless steel trim head screws with pt fence panels or SS suare drives with cedar or cypress.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:01 PM   #9
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If it isn't that crappy PT pine, there shouldn't be any warpage using nails. I'm not a shill for the cedar people, just hate pine. I use a Bostitch coiler and it rules.

And yes, always stainless.
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:06 PM   #10
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Use SS if it's PT. The jury is still out on the new stuff.
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:23 PM   #11
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New member (2nd post). Hello everyone! IMO, I have been using a Bostitch N8 nail gun, and Bostitch compressor since 1982. They are still on the job. Been in this business since 1968. I have found the Bostitch 6D (Galva-Tech) nails work just fine in all types of nailed fence boards, and they prevent approximately 95% of the rust nail bleed.
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:26 PM   #12
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Agreeing with the everyones' posts, 1 3/4" SS 8d ring shank. I believe I also use the N8, and 3" SS screws to attach to posts.
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Old 12-31-2006, 08:06 PM   #13
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Agreeing with the everyones' posts, 1 3/4" SS 8d ring shank. I believe I also use the N8, and 3" SS screws to attach to posts.
Good quality materials. I stopped using screws years ago, due to customer complaints of natural WRC board cracks after the green wood dried down, and board shrinkage. Many needed to be replaced, and "screwed" boards were a P-I-T-A! As I said, I like the Bostitch Galva-Tech 6D nails with irridite coatings. They self-seal upon being shot into the boards, and the cracked-damaged boards are not that hard to be removed, for replacement. Just old-dog school ways, I guess?
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Old 01-04-2007, 08:56 PM   #14
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Stainless Steel

I would definitely recommend stainless steel nails with a ring shank or even ss staples to install fence pickets. Because of the new pressure treatments and acids in cedar and redwood your only long-term option is to go with at least a 304-grade stainless steel. It doesn’t matter how much zinc you load onto the nail whether it’s electro or hot dip, at the end of the day it's still just a coating and will eventually break down causing rust stains and streaks. If you're using quality wood stainless should be considered.

Last edited by Nail Geek; 01-04-2007 at 08:58 PM. Reason: spell check
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:36 PM   #15
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cedar fence nails

I use duo fast (aluminum nail) fence and or siding nailer. No bleeding and are very hard to pull out!
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:05 PM   #16
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I like Elmers but you have to stand there awhile
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Old 03-30-2007, 03:39 PM   #17
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We use a Senco 12'' stapler runing with the grain and 409 construction adhesive. The glav fasteners countersink and we always use twp finish so bleading is not an issue. No Lie Guys that adhesive will not give it up trying to remove a mistake results in pullling the board off with part of the wood still stuck to the board. John
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