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10-26-2009, 09:48 PM
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#41
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pro
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...
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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10-27-2009, 05:47 PM
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#42
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pro
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this weather absolutely is the worst for this sort of work, tons of router dust, rain, if I had a choice between a $h!tload or routering and rain, and mud, i'd choose mud
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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10-28-2009, 05:58 PM
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#43
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pro
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half of the stairs done
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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10-28-2009, 06:00 PM
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#44
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pro
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more shots
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:45 AM.
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10-28-2009, 06:21 PM
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#45
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Pro
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carpenter/ handyman
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Location: Conroe, TX
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Very interesting Bone Saw,
But I don't understand the 2x12 as a plate directly on the grass. Is it to be permanent?
Steve
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10-28-2009, 06:34 PM
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#46
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Mod / ArchiBuilder
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Design/Build Construction
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Location: Dallas, TX / Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stp57
Very interesting Bone Saw,
But I don't understand the 2x12 as a plate directly on the grass. Is it to be permanent?
Steve
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It's not permanent. It's there just for a template.
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10-28-2009, 06:47 PM
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#47
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John Hyatt
Trade:
out door areas, decks,spa room additions,fire pits,custom design
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 966
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BoneMon,,,After a lot of years in the trade, thinking on my feet during several projects.... You have got to be the best fly by the seat of your pants
Carpenter I have the Honor to meet . Go Get Em Bro !!! J.
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10-28-2009, 11:48 PM
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#48
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Pro
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Deck Builder
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 901
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A couple questions Bone. Why is the temp wall bumped out a couple of inches from the deck?
Not really a question, but I thought you doubled up the stringers & notched in the tread on those curved stairs, this one you have metal brackets to fasten the treads to.
BTW, thanks for posting up pics & all for this job. This old dog might learn a new trick & give that a try. I have a redo coming up that one of those would look really cool on. Looking at your pics tho could mislead me (getting me to thinking I could pull it off) & get me in trouble.
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10-29-2009, 07:18 AM
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#49
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pro
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st- cole's right, temporary form, all that hem fir that I used for the wall will not be wasted except for the 2 2x12x10' that make up the top and bottom plate, the studs I get em as 10's from my supplier and return em back as 8"s so it all works out.
Jonmon appreciate the complimentary words very much,
al I mortised the treads and stringers on the last one and it was a total bitch, there were still stair angles on that one too, so the net end result was no different than whats going on here, as far as the 4" offset between the deck and the stairs is for the outboard railpost installation, lemme see if I can dig up another shot
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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10-29-2009, 09:53 AM
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#50
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Mr know it all....not
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General Contractor
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Chester County PA
Posts: 60
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Very nice work...
One question: What hold the stringer on a curve after the temperay stud wall is removed?
I can't picture why the two stringers would not find the original shape.
Thanks,
-B
__________________
"Well, sir, opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one." -Clint
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10-29-2009, 10:58 AM
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#51
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Pro
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Carpentry Contractor
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Bone, you are the man.
Like Deckman, I would be afraid to even try it.
I can't imagine the stress that those stringers are placing at the top and bottom.
How do you figure your stringer length?
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10-29-2009, 11:44 AM
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#52
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Curmudgeon
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carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
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Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwood
.....How do you figure your stringer length?
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Yeah?
__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)
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10-29-2009, 05:22 PM
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#53
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Member
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General contractor
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Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
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That is some great work Bone saw.
I would love to see the installation of the outer stringer. I would imagine it is not a one man job.
Do your stairs have risers when complete?
Do you get spring back once forms are removed? I would suspect you would.
Thanks for posting pictures. It is very interesting to see how you do it.
Dave
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10-29-2009, 06:23 PM
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#54
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pro
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done
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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10-29-2009, 06:24 PM
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#55
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pro
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some more
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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10-29-2009, 06:26 PM
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#56
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pro
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i ll post up when i get in, whooped
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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10-29-2009, 07:34 PM
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#57
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John Hyatt
Trade:
out door areas, decks,spa room additions,fire pits,custom design
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 966
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You have taken the weak point pt lumber has,very unstable while wet, and turned it into a strong point. Bril..int. BoneMon you would not belive how long it takes to do that with Lams/glue/ clamps. J.
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10-29-2009, 08:33 PM
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#58
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Pro
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Carpentry Contractor
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Location: California
Posts: 451
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Great job Bone,
You do need to either invest in a autofocus camera, or lay off the sauce, before you take pics.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to redwood For This Useful Post:
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10-29-2009, 10:41 PM
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#59
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pro
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwood
How do you figure your stringer length?
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I wouldn't even know, or want to know the math involved to figure this out, not that it couldn't be done, that's why it really needs to be done on autocad or sketchup, I'm not proficient in sketchup so I do it in autocad. The key is in the tread shape, you are really just pulling the respective inner radii with a tape onto your tread stock, from your "pie shaped" tread you can determine the arc length (run) and layout the stringer flat like any other stringer. you HAVE to trust the geometry or you will have problems, ratchet straps and brute force, wet pieces with no knots, good grain patterns and no cupping or edge defects. the stair angles help to induce the bias twist, it is important to get the twist and bring everyting tight and like I said before trust the geometry, its easy to try to go at it halfway, but one small missalignment will progressively get worse down the line. the stair angles keep the stringers in perpendicular tension via the treads, and the tread shape and stringer layouts give it the "dna twist" with each stringer fastened at both ends and held in perpendicular tension to each other, once fully assembled becomes monolithic in nature and there is zero springback
this post may be helpfull too
Last edited by Bone Saw; 11-05-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bone Saw For This Useful Post:
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10-29-2009, 10:44 PM
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#60
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pro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwood
Great job Bone,
You do need to either invest in a autofocus camera, or lay off the sauce, before you take pics.
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 lol
camra phone pix, no flash slow shutter speed, I'll get some good pix with camera next week
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