IRC Deck Guardrailing Codes And More

jakejorgenson

Anybody have the reference numbers for the guardrailing codes for the IRC? I'm doing a deck addition right now and have read in other posts that spacing between posts can't be more than 8' and can't find that in the IRC code book I have. I've put the balusters at 3 1/2" spacing (approximately) to center up with the same spacing between all posts and balusters and I've got the posts on the main deck currently at 5'6" apart. I've got the bottom rail at 3 1/2" above the decking and the top cap at 38" above the decking. Their is one section that is at 9' spacing and I'm not sure if I need to redo this before my final inspection and do it at shorter spacing or not (can be fairly easily done). Also, I put the posts on the inside of the rim joist, nailed with galvanized nails a block behind them (running between the joists) and then used a lag bolt to hold them in place. Do I need to do any more than this? This is my first deck that is more than 2' off the ground and is of substantial size. Thanks.

DecksEtc

The building departments I deal with always give me a copy of the railing guidelines, even though I don't need them.

What is the post spacing/railing heights on the drawings you submitted for the permit?

If you had the spacing wrong on your drawings they would have been corrected by the building department when you got your drawings back with the permit - what do those say?

Winchester

Subtle

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Ryan

SLSTech

The gold standard in many places

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/decks/

But DecksEtc is correct, you local BD should let you know what they require / handed you a handout or at least the code they are using to inspect

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DecksEtc

Sorry, but code or no code, common sense would dictate that having 9' between railing posts is just plain wrong.

Lord only knows how high this deck is - if he doesn't know how to build railings, I shudder to think how he framed the deck.

There's too many horror stories about decks falling and people getting seriously injured.

If he doesn't know how to build railings he shouldn't be building a deck higher than 7" off the ground.

jakejorgenson

Permitted set shows 5'6" between the posts on the long side and 9'6" between them on the short side (only two spans). I just grabbed the notes they gave me with the permit and they state 36" height is acceptable and the 4" code, all of which I currently meet.

By the way, the framing on the deck is more than adequate as it is only a 6' span at 16" on center with a 5 1/8" GLB between the columns that have 24" footings that are 3 feet deep (all meeting what is required in Farmington, Utah where this is built). The railing is also built properly but I did question the 9' span instead of the shorter 5'6" spans but this section is only two sections that long and when the plans were drawn it didn't make sense to do three sections of railing. I'm thinking that even though the permitted set shows this 9' section and the notes they gave me show nothing of a requirement for this, I'm going to change this to three sections for greater strength as I'm not really comfortable with it as it is currently built (still pretty strong, but probably not what I would like).

Thanks.

greg24k

2006 IRC maximum post spacing on the guard rail is 6' and 5' max on the stairs.

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jakejorgenson

Do you have a code reference for this? I've heard that, but this far nobody has been able to give me the actual IRC reference number.

greg24k

This comes from Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction Guide which is Based on the 2006 International Residential Code and publication made by American Wood Council.

You can probably download PDF file from the DCA webpage.

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greg24k

Here is the Deck guide

Attached Thumbnails

 

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jakejorgenson

This shows thru bolts on the posts. If I set the posts inside the rim and use lag bolts (1/2" x 4") with a block also behind the post, does that also meet this requirement or is there some issue with attaching with lags instead that somebody can educate me on? They really aren't too strict in this municipality and didn't require a lot of details for the permit but I still want to make sure this holds sufficiently strong. I've put in a single lag in each post at this point along with a few screws but it would be very easy to remove that and add a thru bolt and make it two of them instead of the single one I've got if that would make it a lot stronger. Thoughts?

JonM

Not necessarily true...if the person/inspector misses the error and rubber stamps the permit...it's a done deal until the on site inspection, when the inspectors sees it up close and personal....then the contractor would be required to rip it apart. Just because the inspector didn't do his job doesn't negate the contractors obligation to the codes.

Their is no code provisions for the number or spacing of posts....Code provisions for deck guardrails can be found in the International Residential Code IRC Tables R301.5 define the minimum concentrated live load for guardrails and handrails as 200lbf (pounds of force) in any direction.

greg24k

I agree with Jon, I don't know how things done in other States/Towns, but in most Towns here, someone does plan review and someone else does inspections in the field. So if someone stamps the plan they way it is and something wrong, and building inspector picks up in the field, he will tell you to make corrections.

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Winchester

Yeah, and if anything ever happened and someone got hurt. They town may take some flak for passing it, but all the blame and responsibility is still on the contractor

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Ryan

BuiltByMAC

yes, add another 1/2" lag and make both lags at least 6" long. Post should be 7 1/2" down into framing (2x8 joists) - lags should be at least 6" - penetrates rim joist, post and blocking behind post. Lags should be 1 1/2" from top and bottom of rim joist, leaving 4" between holes. Pre-drill your holes - 1/2" lags push a lot of wood out of their way.
No, I don't have a code number for you. Yes, this is a good strong way to make the post/rim joist connection.

Thru bolts are better. All hardware has to be at the minimum hot dipped galvanized.

You could also use (4) 1/4"x5" LedgerLocks. Bury the heads in the rim joist - that will accomplish two things: 1. leaves you with a smooth surface to attach fascia to and 2. punches the screw through the post into the blocking behind.

I dunno about maximum post spacing - if the handrail can take a sideways hit of a 200 lb. point load, that's what's important.


Mac

greg24k

You cannot counter sink them, some places in NJ will not pass inspection if you over-tighten them. Read instructions on the box.

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Greg Di

That's why you should use HeadLoks in lieu of LedgerLoks on for the posts. No worries about countersinking...

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BuiltByMAC

I come home in a foul f*#kin' mood from a sh*tty day, log on to ct and get "read the instructions" from some Monday mornin' contractor? I don't think so.

Let's think for 2 seconds about this, shall we? The directions on the box are for a specific application - fastening a ledger board to a wall. Punching the head through the ledger board would compromise the board due to the forces acting on the screw so in that instance - countersinking is bad. Duh, I can read dose directions real good.

However, in my application, there are no forces pulling the rim joist away from the post. The rim joist is held in place by nails and screws to the joists. The ledgerlock screws are just there to solidify the post connection.

you ok so far, or am I typing too fast?

Ah f*#k it, just use Headlocks - wouldn't want to get on the bad side of your Jersey inspectors...

Mac

curapa

Wow, a bit testy today?

Atleast I know I am not the only one have a bad day/week. Started off with a broken water line that I hit while digging (the first post hole of the day), then to my helper having to leave to pick his child up from school, then to being rained out, then a flipped breaker while the HO was gone for the day (my generator wont run my compressor), and finally my compressor breaking. All on one job, supposed to take 1 1/2 days but ended up taking 4 1/2

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greg24k

@Monday morning contractor...thats good, you made my Thursday morning or is it Friday already?... as the instructions go, nice to know that you read them, and I do hope your day will get much better, because its not a pretty view seeing you with panties up so tight, loosen up a little

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