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#1 |
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New Guy
Trade: Fencing and landscaping
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 22
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Installing Chain Link Line Posts
I have been installing fences for approx. two years. I do mostly wood and vinyl. I have done some chain link put I have never been competitive on price. I always would concrete all posts including line posts. I have found the local fence companies just drive line posts, no concete. I have tried this with a regular post driver, but I always mushroom the tops and have to cut them off. My question is what do you use to drive post in with? p.s. this is only on shorter, 4 ft and under fences. thanks!
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#2 |
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New Guy
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Tim I have been building fence for about 7 years. I do mostly wood fencing but never pass up a chainlink fence. They are easy and a quick buck. I cement all my post. After digging all the holds by hand for way to many years I broke down and bought a one man auger made by Earthquake, sold at Tractor Supply. I use a 6" bit for corners and gate post and a 4" for line post. Before I built my first chainlink fence I watch a pro builder put one together and I also went out and studied a few to see how others were put together.
I drill my hold 3/4 the dept i need and drive the post the last 1/4 with a post driver. This allows me the rack the post level and true using a string line about a foot of the ground. Then I fill the remaining hold around the post with water about half way up and poor in dry cement to ground level. By driving the post that 1/4 way in with the post driver, it allows you to finnish building the fence without haing to wait on the cement to dry. Being a one man army and having the only thing going for me was my reputation of doing a great job and being honest, I had to have an edge over the big guys in order to get the jobs. That edge was building a better fence for a few bucks less. Taking short cuts will hurt you in the long run. When you put your name on a fence job and two years down the road the fence you built is leaning or wavy, why would some one call you back, or recomend you to there freinds. Do what you know is right. 100% of my business is referrals. I hope this helped Rick |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Trade: Fencing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Unless your doing a commerical guage, like ss20 or more, your always going to mushroom the tops...if your not, that probably means the ground isn't hard enough and you should probably cement.
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#4 |
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New Guy
Trade: Fencing and landscaping
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 22
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Willflop - Do you drive the posts in? If so do you just use a regular "I call it a tpost driver" or something else? What would you use to trim post off with? I have been using a cordless sawzall or gas chop saw either works very easy.
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#5 |
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Registered User
Trade: Fencing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Here in MI probably 90% of the work I get sub'd out on are driven, even the terminals using 21/2s. Tpost drivers are probably to light for some applications, but yes, that is what I use...but mine is bigger and heaver than a standard tpost driver. I used to use just a regular 21/2" pipe cutter, but have recently resorted to a cordless sawzall as well, turns out to be faster (but a little more expensive).
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#6 |
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New Guy
Trade: Fencing and landscaping
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 22
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Do you recall where you bought your driver? All I found through my local suppliers are the lighter weight ones. I see my main supplier master halco has one but not sure if it is very heavy. I have seen the pneumatic drivers, but I do not do an enough chain link to warrant one.
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Trade: Fencing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line PostsQuote:
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#8 |
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Pro
Trade: Fence Contractor
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 130
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
Around here we'll dig down around a foot( more for terminals and a tad less for lines) then slam 'em the rest of the way. Lines are 2' longer then fence, and terminals 3'. I haven't come across a heavier slammer pre-fabbed, but an easy task for a local welder. FOr cutting, I got a cordless band saw a few months ago, and although a little slower than a sawzall for heavier gauge, there's no bouncing around to be had.
__________________
Matt Ehrenzeller-General Manager A Great Divide Fence Company www.agreatdividefence.com |
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#9 |
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New Guy
Trade: Fencing and landscaping
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 22
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
bcf - What brand is your bandsaw? I use dewalt tools and did not see one on there site.
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#10 |
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Registered User
Trade: Fencing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
fyi, I use 7' posts for 4' fence if driven, thus the line posts are 3' in ground.
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#11 |
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Registered User
Trade: Fencing Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19
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Re: Installing Chain Link Line Posts
You mentioned you didn't want a pnuematic, because of the price, but I stumbled across this. http://store.rohrermfg.com/category.aspx?categoryID=4
From what I priced, the standard punuematic will cost you 3k +, these aren't the same design but are about 1/5th the price and run on much smaller air compressors. Once you get one let me know how they work so I won't waste my money |
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