Freestanding Deck Footings On A Newer Construction Home

IHI

But if they dont, given time they start to look like the surface of the ocean with all the waves, so technically he does'nt need to worry, but reputation wise we all know what's at stake.

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crazyson2001

Thanks for all the responses folks.

I'm fairly certain the building inspector in this municipality would allow me to attach to the brick as they are pretty lenient. Whats interesting, is the next town over is very strict on not allowing any attachment to brick veneer.

Looks like I will plan on digging some deep footings at the house and cantilevering the joists. Was already planning on renting a mini skid, will double check with my rental house how deep that can auger or if I need to step up to a full size machine. I figure the holes will be about 6'6" deep. Any tips augering that deep?

parkers5150

call me crazy but couldn't you just saw cut at the appropriate grout lines and chip off the veneer?? shouldn't take but a few hours no??? also why not go ahead w/ your footer plan and attach as well for stabilization. the ledger would take some of the load off of the footers and vise versa. when in doubt over build!!!

BCConstruction

Ok guys i have been looking into the local codes for my area for deck construction and I'm getting conflicting answers. Every deck i have ever seen around here is connected to a brick veneer and code book says nothing about connecting a ledger to a brick wall but local building code office says that it's not allowed. Here's the link to the codes but i mentioned to them that there's nothing in there about it and that all the decks i have seen from old to new have been built like this and passed inspection. They said that they couldn't have!

See if you guys can find anything about it.

http://www.roanokeva.gov/webmgmt/ywb...YCPVE784BTFKEN

oldfrt

Brick veneer is actually real brick set on a ledger outside a framed wall,and not a cosmetic application as the the term may suggest.



I'ts amazing,no I take that back......

It's always seemed that all codes are a matter of interpitation by different building officials,and we have no choice but to confirm the present inspectors take on every code before proceeding with a questionable application.
I'm sure their way of processing is much the same as ours ,using little common sense,records of past failures,and a desire to have it done right.

Always check first,because they're the ones that will sigh off on it.

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BCConstruction

This sure is the problem. The problem is what they say goes no matter if it's the correct way or not.

parkers5150

so lets assume that it is indeed dimensional brick and not "veneer". could you not do the same application as mentioned previously, add an inverted lintel and use a 4x ledger?

BreyerConstruct

I'd suggest not; that's a ton of time involved, and for little reason- you still don't know that the house is worth attaching to.
Better to drop down & attach to the foundation, or go full free-standing.

~Matt

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ARI001

BC,
Since where in the same state I'll share with you. Every county I have built a deck in has a basic deck plan package that follows what the county and state has adopted. It may be more stringent then the IRC or VUSBC. The one I am about to quote for you is from Spotsy but all the counties I've worked in have similar wordings.

PROHIBITED LEDGER ATTACHMENTS
Attachments to the ends of pre-manufactured open web joists, to brick veneers, and to house overhangs/bay windows are strictly prohibited. In such cases the deck shall be freestanding.

I've built decks in: Stafford, Spotsylvania, Prince William, Louden, King George, Westmoreland, Fredericksburg city, Caroline, and Onnancock. It's been the same in all of them as far as ledger attatchment.

If they sign off on it and it fails the county (along with you) can be held liable. The whole issue is who is going to and willing to accept liability. If you can get an engineer to sign off on it the county will let you do it that way. The reason is because the engineer then accepts liability along with yourself.

They can not arbitarily enforce newly adopted codes on work done previously under another model code. That is why you may see decks built that do not conform to the current standards. The other reason is they may have been signed off on by an engineer. Hope that clarifies things a little for.

BCConstruction

Thanks ARI001, I did also look in the code books for your area and found details like you quoted for brick walls but after 2 hours of looking i still cant find nothing in there for Roanoke area. My bro in law says that it's not code for Roanoke but im now finding that hard to believe after the looking at codes for other countys.

RobertCDF

I know one thing 100%... if built to specs with proper sized joists, beams, connections, spans, etc... with a free standing deck you can sleep every night worry free.

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cleveman

I've got decks on a brick veneer which are unattached. One is moving, the othe ris not. This is a pair of townhomes (duplex) and they are next to each other.

Another unattached on a brick veneer isn't moving and never has.

You can attach to the brick, but I hope you choose not to, just as I have.

In the future, I plan on allowing only 18" for the overdig (no problem for skinny people) and I'll stay 2' away with the footing for the deck(s). I use 3x the width of the joist for a cantilever, which tells me a 2x8. However, I have no problem with a 2x6 either. So it is not a problem. If you want to stay out 30", use 2x10 floor joists. I suppose a guy could scab on some metal to the ends of the joists if he was worried about the cantilever. It is of little concern to me. It won't have a wall sitting on top of it.

crazyson2001

I've always used the 3x joist width = max cantilever rule of thumb as well. I think I've heard you can do up to 4x cantilever, but I've never tried it. I'd be worried it would feel springy. Kinda like never totally maxing out the span tables. I always like to de-rate those a bit.

This language is nearly verbatim in the next town over that I mentioned earlier. They are very strict on not allowing attachment to brick veneer. Must be boilerplate in the IRC.

Aaron111

I agree to deep is no good ....... but it might be safer in the long run..... more base structure... go wide and deep ... more money on cement though....