Deck too low for notched post and beam support? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

DaveNJ · 11-01-2009, 12:13 PM

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

steves · 11-01-2009, 12:24 PM

If you use the same set up you drew but use a 2x12 beam ,you still have 3/4" for shimming/leveling
And use a 4x4 post base

shanekw1 · 11-01-2009, 12:28 PM

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

jhark123 · 11-01-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveNJ

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

My lumber yard has brackets that can be adjusted for height 0-6" (think HDG threaded rod and an adjustable nut to give clearance). That being said I wouldn't worry about the short post, I would just soak the entire piece in a bucket of end treat solution for as long as possible.

CookeCarpentry · 11-01-2009, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveNJ

No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

x2 with Shane's advice.

And you can get the piers pretty darn close to perfect taking your time with measurements and either a laser level or string line.

bert0168 · 11-01-2009, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanekw1

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

That would be my suggestion.

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc.

shanekw1 · 11-01-2009, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc.

This would be good advice.

I poured all these in place before I stuck the beam in there.

**genecarp** · 11-01-2009, 01:07 PM

ME thinks a HO was just told how to deal with his deck

GMOD,,,FOC

CookeCarpentry · 11-01-2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by genecarp

ME thinks a HO was just told how to deal with his deck

GMOD,,,FOC

doh!

shanekw1 · 11-01-2009, 01:27 PM

I blame all the candy for breakfast.

tomstruble · 11-01-2009, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bert0168

That would be my suggestion.

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc.

he has done this already

http://www.contractortalk.com/f44/hello-n-j-67011/

stp57 · 11-01-2009, 05:04 PM

I would make those mini posts from composite glued together for thickness. It would certainly hold up better than wood.
Steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveNJ

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

DaveNJ · 11-01-2009, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanekw1

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

I had thought of that, but with no cantilever, I didn't want to end up with this (apologies to original poster -- see below). Can't cover that with cladding or lattice -- maybe a shrub.