Deck Screws Vs Joist Nails

neolitic

So glad to see that this thread didn't
die while I wasn't looking!

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basswood

Mac,

That is a great tip.

Here is an example of using a jig to make beam or post notching fast and accurate... gotta be as fast as nailing a piece of hardware on and makes for some good connections (Click on the youtube link):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSpjMRP9D38

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Dan_Watson

Wearing gloves while operating power tools is a big no no

basswood

Not in Minnesota. 18 degrees here this morning with wind chill around zero.

Here we wear our gloves when we go tool shopping, so we know if our gloved hands will fit inside the tool handles.

neolitic

You only work indoors in the winter?
The air flow off the power tools
lowers the wind chill another 20º!
Better gloved fingers than numbed
fingers.

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Dan_Watson

But you dont feel when you cut it off if its numb.

neolitic

I used to have a slick
to clean the bottom of the notches,
smooths 'em right up.
Idiot that stole it couldn't have know
what it was.
They don't seem to sell them in the Boxes either.

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reveivl

My thought exactly, Neo, he needs a slick. Using a chisel with a mallet like that means either the chisel is dull or he doesn't know how to use it. The 'jig' he used serves no purpose that I can see, it just slows the process down. You cut the first and last kerfs, then 'go for it', doesn't matter if any of the rest are square or not. Then he beat up his nice clean edges with a framing hammer! He'd be sweeping chips on my sites.

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BuiltByMAC

Tell me more! I use a chisel...what's a slick?

I agree about your method - cut outside lines first slowly, then shred the inside. However, as I saw it, he was hitting through the waste towards the edges. No problems there...quick, easy way to clean out the waste. Sweeping chips seems kind of harsh...

I dunno man, I think you'd feel it! If you had enough circulation to use a power saw, you'd feel if you cut yourself!


Mac

reveivl

A slick is a wide (3"+) heavy blade about 10" long mounted on a slight angle to a 24" or so handle. The blade is flat underneath (sharpened top side only), and the cutting surface is radiused slightly. It has the weight and strength to 'plane' the flat surface that the guy had roughed out with his saw.

I'll try to get a picture of mine and post it for you. They are a joy to use, but hard to find, a friend of mine (blacksmith) made mine for me from a car leaf spring.



Yes, I do the same, he was pretty brutal about it is all. I like to be careful with the edges that are visible. Maybe I'm just a grumpy old fart.

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basswood

Rev,

I posted this just to show that traditional joinery (at least simple lap joints) is about as fast as using hardware. I also think it looks better and makes for a solid connection.

As a timber framer, I thought you might want to also encourage this kind of thing and offer your expertise (rather than insults). I'm just trying to offer some ideas and learn a few things too.

I don't own a slick, as you mentioned they are hard to find.

BTW, half of these joints will be buried in earth (that should make you happy) as a retaining wall and the other joints will only be visible after you lift the bulkhead door and head downstairs to the basement.

The jig I made for my Makita Beam Saw, but I like using it making notches with my smaller saws. The "infeed/outfeed" surface of the jig table keeps cuts from climbing or dipping, and keeps the cuts plumb and square. It works about as smooth and fast as a slider or track saw.

I know this is not always neccessary, but I like what it does:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzecgPNpsOE

neolitic

Don't let Reveivl get to you....
after all he is a Canuk.

I cut them pretty much like you
except with a speed square rather
than a jug.
The hammer sure speeds the job up.

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basswood

Hey I don't mind, if you think about it, the suggestion was made that joinery like that can be done better and faster than what I showed in the video clip...

really, that just proves my point. These joints are fairly easy and quick, and could be used more often.

Also, I don't mind sweeping up wood chips... kinda enjoy it actually... and they do let me do some timber framing... though my last job was paint grade (rare in timber framing) so the painter could hide my poor joinery (except that I was the painter too).

REVEIVL,

This was my last piece of hackwork timber framing:

Cheers,

Bass

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jarhead0531

Slicks aren't that hard to find, you just have to know where to look. These are the best you'll probably ever find. There is also plenty of old school timber framing chisels around that can be had for pretty cheap.

Barry

reveivl

Basswood, that was you? (Pulls foot from mouth). I've seen and admired those timber knees you showed us before, definitely not hackwork.

You're right sweeping up chips is not bad, and I guess it's my turn.

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reveivl

Here's the pics of my slick made some 30 years ago.

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neolitic

Pretty neat.
I got mine at a farm auction,
paid $5 (1974 money).
I want to find that deal again.

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neolitic

I was just jerking your chain this morning.
Really, some of my best friends are Canadians.

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basswood

No harm...

Glad you liked some of my work. ;o)

I really don't know much about timber framing... learning as I go. I do mostly finish carpentry and woodworking.

I'll see if I can add a slick to my collection. Your slick looks slick.

Regards,

Bass

reveivl

Thanks, yeah the slick is a wonderful tool, you could shave with mine if your arms were long enough. (and didn't hiccup)

How do you like the 16" saw? Kinda like hanging on to a running sawmill eh?

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