Deck advice /tips - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

polaris · 10-03-2008, 06:06 PM

From viewing the posts, pictures on this site obviously some highly skilled deck builders, is there any advice you can give about layout, how you like to set your decks out to achieve the best possible 'look' or anything that you do that makes a difference? Worked on several decks in the U.K , 10 or 12 whilst in Australia . How doyou set your deck boards out for example?, one of the methods here is to chalk a line every 5th board , fix those boards down and then infil in between gapping the boards by eye , is that a technique you would use? Hope these questions arent to basic , thanks

**BuiltByMAC** · 10-03-2008, 06:24 PM

I usually measure and build my structural framing so I'll end up with full deck boards - no ripped pieces for the first or last board. Say for a 12' wide deck, building the structure so outer edge of rim joist measures 142" from house. That leaves 1 inch overhang for deck boards that are 5 3/8" wide w/ 1/8" gap. Unless I'm picture framing...then it'd be 143."

I'll pop lines if I need to line up multiple board rows, if not, I'll usually just pull tape from the rim joist on both ends to make sure the deck boards are lining up nicely.

I start a full board at the house and work out from there - after a couple of boards are down, I've got a surface to set stuff on.

Mac

neolitic · 10-03-2008, 06:31 PM

Caveat Polaris.
I think Mac is talking about composite
boards rather than milled lumber.
At least around here lumber has too
much variation to use that method.
What you describe is one way I've
worked with wood decking too.
I'm sure Mac can set me right,
if I mis-spoke.

PS...
I'm in the middle of the country
right below that big inland sea.

**BuiltByMAC** · 10-03-2008, 07:10 PM

Actually, composite and cedar boards both, Neo. The cedar I get around here is fairly even in width. If it's a cedar deck, I'll give myself a little extra play when I frame, say pull the rim joist back to 2 1/2" from the outside edge of my last deck board. That way, if some of the deck boards are a little thicker than planned board width, or my gapping isn't perfect due to bowed boards, I'll still have some overhang.

(I just looked back over my projects for the year - I haven't done a cedar deck since Nov. '07. Everything this year has been composite or PVC... Guess that's why I'm in the mindset of being able to count on my board width being stable)

Thanks for clarifying...pt deck boards definitely require a different set of rules.

Mac

redwood · 10-03-2008, 07:11 PM

I'm with Neo on this one. Try as I might, I cannot get the boards to evenly work out, unless it is a small deck. We primarily use Ipe.

I start at the edge away from the house, unless I'm picture framing. If I have to rip the last board, I think that it is less noticeable at the house. Plus, if the wall is not straight, I can make some adjustments with my rip.

We start with a straight line and work towards the fascia/rimjoist. Every few rows or so, we pull a string line to make sure we are straight and check the distance to the fascia.

neolitic · 10-03-2008, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redwood

I'm with Neo on this one. Try as I might, I cannot get the boards to evenly work out, unless it is a small deck. We primarily use Ipe.

I start at the edge away from the house, unless I'm picture framing. If I have to rip the last board, I think that it is less noticeable at the house. Plus, if the wall is not straight, I can make some adjustments with my rip.

We start with a straight line and work towards the fascia/rimjoist. Every few rows or so, we pull a string line to make sure we are straight and check the distance to the fascia.

Pretty much the same here, except I will
just snap a few lines (like every 3-4') as
reference only so I don't have to keep
stretching my tape all the way back.
I'm kinda used to my folding rule on the deck.