Cutting Stucco - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 08:45 AM

I need to cut out some stucco for a 2x8 ledger board. I can cut the long runs easily enough with my circular saw and diamond blade, and the two vertical cuts at each end, but then, what would be a good tool to finish up the cuts at the 4 corners?

Time for the Multi Master??

A.W.Davis · 09-03-2007, 09:24 AM

I use a Dewalt 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade for things like that.

If you dont want to overcut and go past your line, try a rotozip with a tile cutting bit. First score the stucco with the grinder the take several passes with rotozip.

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 09:32 AM

Yep, it's for a second story deck in the San Diego area. I've got a page started on my website for it here http://woodsshop.com/PROJECTS/Mill/MillDeck.htm

Those 4" grinders do a pretty good job, but I'd like to get into the square corners and cut a little deeper before I start chiseling out the last part, hopefully without causing any cracks.

A.W.Davis · 09-03-2007, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Wood

Yep, it's for a second story deck in the San Diego area. I've got a page started on my website for it here http://woodsshop.com/PROJECTS/Mill/MillDeck.htm

Those 4" grinders do a pretty good job, but I'd like to get into the square corners and cut a little deeper before I start chiseling out the last part, hopefully without causing any cracks.

You wont have to worry about overcutting too much on the top of the ledger because the deck boards will cover that, I am sure you knew that.

I personally wouldnt remove the stucco for a ledger board, unless I was adding some L-flashing to sit over the deck boards, or ledger board. I am sure the deck pros will chime in soon.....I do kitchens but I have built a few decks in my time.

A.W.Davis · 09-03-2007, 09:43 AM

Just looked at the plans posted on your website. That looks like it will be a fun project to do!

Ohhh and your side elevations say you are to install a 2x10 ledger not 2x8

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 09:55 AM

whoops! That Side View is an older version, showing that 2x10 as the ledger. My set of drawings for the Permit show a 2x8 ledger.

Giftcard · 09-03-2007, 10:42 AM

I would cut a straight line above where the ledger would sit and insert a flashing a after the ledger is installed.

mdshunk · 09-03-2007, 10:50 AM

How do you handle the weep screed continuity when you cut out the stucco like that?

Tom R · 09-03-2007, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wetwash

I would cut a straight line above where the ledger would sit and insert a flashing a after the ledger is installed.

Correct, - - that's how it would be 'required' around my way . . .

RobertCDF · 09-03-2007, 11:31 AM

We use spacers now on stucco. It is normally imposible to get the flashing behind far enough up to be effective.

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 11:48 AM

Robert, how do you seal around the lags/bolts at the stucco?

here in San Diego, rain, and water damage issues aren't really an issue like they are in other parts of the world where it rains once and awhile!

I've usually always just lagged right to the stucco, with some good caulking behind the ledger at each of the penetrations. I just recently heard about putting some self adhesive membrane behind the ledger, that sounds like a very good idea.

Once and awhile I've cut an angled kerf into the stucco for a piece of copper, glued in with caulk.

this time, see that little balcony over that mudroom? We'll have to remove the balcony and lower the new little roof down to underneath the new ledger, so we'll have a section of stucco cut out already, so we'll just continue the cut across the wall for the rest of the new ledger. Actually, I've never removed the stucco for a ledger like this before

MD, I'm hoping to cut just deep enough to not cut the paper, and then do flashing like this. If I do cut the paper, I don't think it'll be an issue with the way the flashing will work. I might use some tape though if I do cut the paper.

I'm just hoping I can stuff the top flashing up under the stucco enough.

skyhook · 09-03-2007, 11:51 AM

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mickeyco · 09-03-2007, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A.W.Davis

You wont have to worry about overcutting too much on the top of the ledger because the deck boards will cover that, I am sure you knew that.

I personally wouldnt remove the stucco for a ledger board, unless I was adding some L-flashing to sit over the deck boards, or ledger board. I am sure the deck pros will chime in soon.....I do kitchens but I have built a few decks in my time.

It looks like a cable gaurd rail system, do they allow that out there (ladder effect)? Just curious.

RobertCDF · 09-03-2007, 12:06 PM

The spacers are 5/4 x 6 PT cut to 9" (if 2x10 7" if 2x8) Then we cut an angle on it usually 30* to make it into a ^. Nail them on at 16" O.C. (or whatever your bolt pattern is) And caulk the living piss out of it on the top and sides. Then install your ledger on top and use 6" lags, or timberlocks (I like to use 3 timeberlocks) The space allows water and such to run behind the ledger.

skyhook · 09-03-2007, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Wood

here in San Diego, rain, and water damage issues aren't really an issue like they are in other parts of the world where it rains once and awhile!

It will rain again in SD. Your argument will not hold water in court. If you don't believe me, ask a Structural Engineer.

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 12:23 PM

That sounds pretty good Robert. This time we'll use LedgerLok, 2 every 16".

RobertCDF · 09-03-2007, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Wood

That sounds pretty good Robert. This time we'll use LedgerLok, 2 every 16".

The reason I use the timberlocks in these cases is because the ledger locks dont come in 6" and you really need that extra 1" because of the 1" block. That is why I add 1 extra (BTW you may need an engineer stamp to approve this plan, we had to get one)

A.W.Davis · 09-03-2007, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdshunk

How do you handle the weep screed continuity when you cut out the stucco like that?

The weep screed is typically installed at the base of the stucco, not midlevel so you wont have to worry about it, however I have seen stucco expansion joints installed on multi level units that interfere with the ledger when installing z-flashing

A.W.Davis · 09-03-2007, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickeyco

It looks like a cable gaurd rail system, do they allow that out there (ladder effect)? Just curious.

That is the first time I have seen that particular cable system (if that is what it is) on any specs.

I would think as long as the cable spacing isnt more than 4" than it meets the minimum code requirements and is fine.

Joe Wood · 09-03-2007, 01:10 PM

Nope, already pulled the Permit last Fri. :-)

I was wondering if they'd allow the Cable Railing, but they did. The Plan Checker almost made me get engineering though for the cable and its connections.