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Cutting out post holes in finished deck

38K views 64 replies 31 participants last post by  Gutterking 
#1 ·
We lay our decking then mark out for posts. Drill four 1/2" holes in the corners and then jigsaw so we can drop the 4x4 through and bolt to the rim.

I'm wondering if there is a faster way to cut 4x4 holes in a deck surface than the way we have been doing them. I thought about a router and template, however I cannot see a router with a big bit wanting to plunge through dense composite without doing it in many multiple light passes. This would be slower than my current method...I think.

Cutting the holes seems to take way too long on some decks. I have to cut 14 tomorrow and am looking to try something new.
 
#2 ·
Good question, I can't think of a faster method, I don't think it would be a good application for a router. Could use a 3.5" hole saw and clean up the corners with the jig saw, although I don't think it would be that efficient. Could plunge with a circular saw (would eliminate the need to drill) and clean up with a jig saw, again I don't think it would be to efficient, maybe with a small blade circular saw.


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#6 ·
hmmmm.....I install and block all my post before decking. I never thought of that method as being slow.

Your current method seems efficient. The only thing I can think of would be to use a circ. saw with the smallest blade possible. This would allow the saw to remove more material on the plunge before hitting your layout marks. You'd still have to switch to a jigssaw to finish up so I don't know if this method would be more efficient then your current method.

This is the smallest circ saw I own.....http://www.dkhardware.com/product-15144-4200n-makita-4-3-8-in-circular-saw.html
 
#8 ·
interesting,.. I always do the posts first. Do you go ahead and add blocking surrounding the post before you run your decking?

Im just not seeing the time savings to cut out the hole after the decking is down. I know the decking goes way faster with no posts in the way but either way, the notches have to be cut and the posts have to be set. It would seem to even itself out to me.

I like to fasten my posts on all four sides and I could see where decking in the way would halter that on a low deck.

Am I missing something?
 
#17 ·
I don't think it's a wash time-wise. It's faster to run all the decking and then cut the holes.

The posts must be laid out in either case.
Not stopping to notch during decking saves a lot of time and prevents mistakes and maximizes economy of movement. Cutting the holes out after is faster by far, but it's monotonous. With most synthetic railing systems, there is a huge room for inaccuracy because of the post sleeve and trim ring.

We don't as rule, block every post unless there is framing reason to do it. Instead we've switched to liberally applying PL to each post prior to bolting. It's incredibly strong once dry. We can eliminate a lot of cutting and nailing of blocking with the PL. We add 3" screws to the box beam into the joist ends to keep the posts from torquing out the box beam.
 
#9 ·
I actually do it 3 different ways.

I'll mount the posts that are parallel or perpendicular to the run of decking, prior to decking.

Posts that are at a angle to the decking, I box out for the post and then scribe and cut the decking as I come over those boxes. The posts then go in through the decking.

We never use composite railings out here for some reason, so many times we bolt outside the 2x12 fascia and use our threaded rod technique to lock the posts in. No notching period.
 
#10 ·
I use the 4 holes/jigsaw method Greg. I too wish there was a faster/easier way but I haven't come up with one.

I used to do the posts first but, like you, found that it is much faster setting them after. I find that it makes for a much cleaner cut around the posts making for a nicer looking finished product.
 
#14 ·
No dice. They don't cut very quickly in dense synthetic decking materials. I'll use mine in a pinch to make weird cuts here and there, but it's slow going.
 
#19 ·
Posts get sleeves n' skirts? cuts can be ugly. Drill one hole in the corner, use a jigsaw blade w/ low tpi, cut out hole, sharp chisel, three hits, clean up three corners.
Change out jigsaw blades when it starts sloggin' through the cuts...

Or... if you're drilling holes in each corner, how about using a sawzall? Bigger blade, more aggressive (faster) cuts, still gonna be ugly as hell but skirts and sleeves hide all. (I've never actually done this - but I install posts first so I'm just tossing out ideas for others to try!!)

Driftwood, I have no idea what you're talking about! Sorry, man, terminology flew right past me...

Mac
 
#25 ·

Craftsman Mini Circular Saw for those who want the precision cutting ability of a circular saw in a lightweight portable power tool. The Craftsman Mini Circular Saw allows you to easily cut clean, straight lines on jobs in which a standard size circular saw would be awkward and heavy to handle. The compact design and sharp 3 in. blade make cutting thin pieces of wood a snap. The Mini even allows you to accomplish precision plunge cuts. The Mini Circular Saw has 2.8 amps of power and cuts at 2800 rpm (no load). The ergonomically designed soft grip handle adjusts to 3 different positions (0, 15, and 30 degrees). The Mini Saw also features a built in LaserTrac and LED light. Link
Might be worth a try. AEG used to make something similar but I couldn't find it, may have been custom made.


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#29 ·
Mayfell ts400



Electric circular cutter TS 400
The old laborious way of cutting PVC and carpet floor coverings to size
is a thing of the past. The four-arc cutting blade cuts precisely and with
effortless ease. The cutting blade really "pulls in" the floor covering and
the "no load" speed of 700 rpm (1/min) of the cutting blade guarantees
an impeccably straight and accurate cut. Ideal for tailoring the floor
covering to the room. Guided along the wall by the base edge of the
machine the blade cuts at precisely 3/8 in. (10 mm) from the wall.
The built-in honing unit sharpens the blade in a matter of seconds.

Standard accossories:
- 1 four-arc cutting blade 120 mm (4 11/16 in.) Ref. No. 092173
- 1 whetstone, Ref. No. 093385
- 1 spanner 8 mm (5/16 in.), Ref. No. 093246
- 1 ring spanner, Ref. No. 093089
- 10 m (33 ft) Cable with plug

Optional accessories:
- Four-arc cutting blade, 120 mm (4 11/16 in.) high speed steel,
Ref. No. 092175
- Circular cutting blade, 120 mm (4 11/16 in.), Ref. No. 092178

Subject to technical modification. Link
 
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