Custom Handrails

F C W

Hi guys,

I have a question about custom handrails. I typically use a 2x6 on top 2” nailers and ¾” trim. It looks pretty good. My question is to make it look a little nicer (on top) is there a way to inlay or laminate the top hand rail in a way that it won’t split due to shrinking and expanding? I have a nice deck I am bidding and want to use red cedar and inlay walnut dust from the sander, in grooves. Not sure if it will last the summer before it tries to pop out.
Thanks for any advice you can give,
James

John Hyatt

I dont understand any of this. J.

DecksEtc

My guess is that he wants to cut slots into the top of the handrail and then fill it with some sort of glue/walnut sawdust mixture.

Not sure about the question about it "lasting the summer", I've never built anything for a customer that I only expected to last a few months - that's where I got stumped John.

F C W

Wow I'm sorry for my lack of communication skills guys, I was working hard (head down designing) to try and come up with a way to give an inlayed look to the handrails I am hoping to build on a customer’s deck. I would never build something I thought would last a summer. Hence the intended question above was to seek advice from the professionals of this forum. My hope was, that someone on this forum had some experience in working with inlay processes like creating a groove and filling it with something to create a contrast and a framed in look. The typical way would be to use epoxy or wood glue mixed with a material that would accent the project. I have never done it on an outdoor project and was looking to push the bar and be creative. In the context of the handrails, on a deck, I was concerned about the expanding and contracting of the wood overtime, like say a summer (Red Cedar) allowing the inlay to pop out if I did it the way you would an indoor piece.

Sorry for the confusion

James

John Hyatt

Walnut is not an outside lumber it will go pretty quick exposed to the weather.Cedar is not good for inlay or lamanation its just too soft .J.

Morning Wood

If you are going to use cedar handrails I would use purpleheart or mahogany for the inlay. And I would route the inlay in making the inlay about 3/32" to 1/8" thick. I would use two part epoxy to glue it in. Are you talking about a design or just stripes or banding? Banding or stripes might be done on the table saw carefully. In any case epoxy is a necessity and sealing the S%it out of the wood is also really important. I think walnut is ok for exterior protected stuff like entry doors, but agree with previous poster I wouldn't use it on an exposed handrail. Fir might also be an option for handrail or inlay.

deckman22

Why not just use another wood for the top cap other than cedar, tigerwood comes to mind if you want contrasting colors. Any sort of inlay work seems it would have a limited life span.

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Deckman
www.alscustomdecks.com

F C W

Yeah, I wanted to explore some new ways of creating style and give the customer that one of a kind touch.
Thanks for the replies, I hope and pray we all stay busy this summer.
James

DecksEtc

You could always make up a few test pieces and throw them outside now.

It couldn't hurt to try.

John Hyatt

James I am thinking you are making the jump from inside to outside. Thats a Big Jump. J.

Jason Whipple

Wood inlays, even if solid wood, will not last out side.

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Jason E Whipple, General Manager
Historic House Restoration, Cincinnati, Ohio
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F C W

Actually, I started building simple treated decks for a builder while I was in high school. They were more like play pens than decks. I am just trying new stuff. Some of the customers I have dealt with in the past do want to incorporate their indoor theme outside I have made custom handrail posts to match the indoor staircase newels. I am glad to get your opinions, I am going to make a few and throw them outside (thanks decks etc.). I am looking into changing the color of the top cap as deckman suggested. If I can figure out how, I will try and post pics of the inlays when done.

John Hyatt

FC thinking upgrade/top end is a very good thing. I have done multi glue ups with S American lumber out over 5 years still doing fine clamped up with tightbond 111. The thing is you have to start with lumber that is stable.

By multi I mean building in levals. Clamp up the detail then compose it in the project. Sounds like I am not talking to a entry leval Woodworker. Anyway what your thinking is total in the realm but doing it in cedar is not.
In our area working with old growth doug fir like Morning put in is a little out too butttttt even second growth DF is some good stuff and vastley over looked.

With the right work space and a lot of clamps there is 0 ,nada , no reason not to try what I think your thinking about. J.