Couple Questions On Upcoming Project

WilsonRMDL

I'm starting a 20x26 deck next wknd. Heres my questions:

Is there any way you pro's use to hide seams or make them less noticeable on PT decks? Stagger seams, etc.

The deck i'm building is only 30" off the ground, are 6x6 posts neccessary or will 4x4 work out fine?

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

buildenterprise

4 x 4 support posts are fine, and no rails are required if deck is less than 30" above grade. Of course, stagger all seams at least two joists apart. And butt that decking as tight as you can get it, it will shrink and gap itself perfectly.

BuiltByMAC

If it makes sense visually, drop a seam board down the middle running perpendicular to the decking. If you picture frame the outer border and run 2 seam boards, you could use (2) 12' boards per run and still get 26' total width.

Mac

WilsonRMDL

I was thinking of picture framing it like you said, but do you think it would look weird doing it with PT?

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

neolitic

If we are talking butt joints (seams?)
and you don't do it Mac's way, we would
traditionally "scarp" butts.
That is bevel each end any where from
30 to 45 degrees, and butt them tight
so that when they dry out you can't see
into the joint.
The more you randomize them
the better they'll look.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

WilsonRMDL

I like the idea of mitering them to but up to each other at diff. angles. Would it be a bad idea to biscuit joint them at the seams?

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

BuiltByMAC

Not sure, I've never decked using pt. Why would a picture framed deck look any weirder than a reg. decked one? It would actually help with the look, I think. With how you Eastern US guys talk about how that SYP pt decking shrinks, picture framing it w/ seam boards would make gaps less noticeable, even if they got bigger. They wouldn't be in the field, just next to the seam boards...

Mac

Attached Thumbnails

 

WilsonRMDL

Good Point Mac. I think i'm gonna go with the picture framing idea. I'll post some pictures when its done. Starting on it 5/2/08

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

bjg5240

Why not try running everything on a 45? A little more material, but I think the look is nice as well.

__________________
Quality Isn't Expensive, It's Priceless

BuiltByMAC

With a 20x26 deck, you'd have butt joints on every run. That's a lot of extra blocking and gaps or scarf joints in the field. Plus a lot of extra cutting and some wasted material. There's some decks where a 45º angled decking looks really good (and increases lateral rigidity) but for this one...wouldn't be my first choice.

Wilson, if you go with the seam board/picture frame idea, try dropping all your 12' boards first, then pop lines on the ends and cut to fit after installing. Cutting all the ends once the decking's installed will result in a cleaner line than trying to match up factory ends. Then you can drop the seam boards in...

Mac

Bone Saw

ditto, every word of it
but I gotta say mac, you have one that really grabbed my attention, the one with alternate course double butt joint stripe going up the middle. I've yet to get a project with the rigght run length combination that hasnt been screwed up by a ******* bumpout, I like that look, sleek and sharp

__________________
Custom Decks & Carpentry LLC.
Chester County Custom Decks
Custom Deckbuilder Mainline
Philadelphia Deck Builder
Custom Decks & Carpentry on Facebook

BuiltByMAC

Thanks, man!

Freakin' 22' width! It was a rooftop deck and I wanted to keep my framing as simple and lined up as possible to encourage drainage - only two doubled joists for the butt joints. I ordered 20's and 12's and had zero waste. I wasn't too sure how it would look but after dry fitting several runs, thought it would work out ok. HOs really liked it, that was the important part!!

BTW, I only reframed the sleepers and reskinned it - the handrail was pre-existing.

Mac

Attached Thumbnails

 

Attached Images

 

neolitic

Cool
If you can't hide your problem...
turn it into a "design feature"!
I love it.

To the OP:
With your Y/P, you want to butt those
field boards tight to the trimmers
to allow for shrinkage.
Mac has to allow space for expansion with
composites, you have the opposite problem.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

WilsonRMDL

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll make sure I butt the joints as tight as I can. I"m having a hard time deciding on my footings. I usually just use sono-tube and put the post in the ground and pour the cement. I went and bid a re-deck today and they had the posts sitting on top of the piers with just a piece of re-bar sticking up into the post to keep it on the pier. I've also seen a type of block that sits on top of the pier, that accepts the post into the top of it. Am I wrong for putting the post into the cement in the ground?

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

BuiltByMAC

Yup. You create a rot point where the post meets the concrete. Your posts won't last as long...

Install these in your wet concrete for ground level decks - http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/PB-PBS.asp


Use these for elevated decks - http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/CBSQ.asp


Regardless of which type you use, cover the inside of the metal post base w/ flashing tape to prevent contact w/ the pressure-treated posts.

Mac

WilsonRMDL

I will definetly be using those on this project. Thanks MAC.

__________________
Innovative Remodeling LLC
Licensed and Insured

deckman22

Why not get 20'ers & do away with any seams?

__________________
Deckman
www.alscustomdecks.com

Danno6102

I use the ABA66 post bases. I'm not a big fan of setting stuff in wet concrete. God fobid I'm off on my lcoation or the HO f'ing dog smacks it while chasing a cat, I'm screwed. I'll spend the 30 seconds & hammer drill a 5/8" hole & install an expansion anchor.

John Hyatt

That is a good idea Im gunna remember that one. I have used a 4' run in the middle with both sides butting up but that little girl would work with a lot of projects. J.

Bone Saw

mac, are those bases a siesmic code thing for you out west? don't really seem em out here.

I'm wit danno on the wet crete setting, I like to hook a chaulk line on an outer row of footings (bisecting it) and run it out and snap a line
about the washer, you need it with 1/2" titans, but not with 5/8", the washer then makes the head proud and above the bearing surface

titans and post bases are a match made in heaven

__________________
Custom Decks & Carpentry LLC.
Chester County Custom Decks
Custom Deckbuilder Mainline
Philadelphia Deck Builder
Custom Decks & Carpentry on Facebook