Correect Deck ?'s Robert and others - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

IHI · 06-06-2006, 07:48 PM

Just sold a deck to a prominate political member tonight. I gave him a price last year, never heard back, he called a month ago and I finally had time to go there tonight and they decided to use the green correct deck CX decking with HFS and white PVC railings, lighted posts caps, white PVC fascia boards, and white PVC lattice with screen on back under deck.

So...existing base seems in good shape from looking it over again, 2x10 beams and 2x8 joists 16" oc attached to home and beam is 6' out from house so 6' free span and 2' cantilever. Naturally if we find nasty wood once we strip the existing decking it will be dealt with, but other than that without having all the CD info handy does that base sound right to support this material?

Next, this is a small rectangle deck 20'x8' and they want the decking run the 20' way, since the longest CD boards are only 20' and I want to hide the lattice under the outside lip of the decking (decking will over hang rim joists 3/8", the 20' boards will not span enough to allow this to happen at far ends. So was thinking of splitting the deck in the center with a piece of correct deck running perpendicular to the house, then butting the CT running parallel to the house upto this middle "splitting board" Sound about right? if need be, and am actually leaning toward moving rim joists in 3/4" at both ends and trimming ledger to give me the free span I need to use a full 20' board.

Using the hidden fastner system is it easier to use a stapler like their website recommends, or just stick with stainless trim screws?

When using adhesive under decking prior to screwing into place, what are you using? regular PL200/400 or something else? I'm assuming that really helps stiffen it up when it's set-up as well as help prevent cupping in the future, and has an eye appeal to the homie since it's going above and beyond....but will this void any manufacturer warranty?

What blade are you using and how long will it last? just a standard carbide tipped combination blade like a 40T in a 12" miter saw? or more/less teeth?

How are you guys dealing with the stair stringers, treads/risers? pics would be great in this case for ideas. Dont want anything that's gonna take 50 measurements and still multi piecing in materials, would like a great looking stair case (only 3 steps) that's as easy to make as standard PT steps.

Any other tid bits, I'm all ears. Gonna re-price all this as I told him prices have gone up and he understands so kinda anxious. Had to laugh when I left though, he said if I do a good job he may invite the wife and I to his annual get together of "prominate people" on labor day so I can rub elbows

I laughed and said how bout I do a good job so you and your wife are happy for the long haul and then he could give me a good reference. Least I got a wink and a nod out of that LOL!! still would'nt mind rubbing elbows with the 2 step higher financial pool though

guess using a framing nailer for installing is out huh??

Downeast · 06-06-2006, 08:16 PM

I'm gonna be making a 4'x 4' deck for these folks outdoor shower in the next day or so. Gonna counter sink and screw it.

I'll filll ya in on all the details seeing as I will be with all knowledge of CD after that.

RobertCDF · 06-07-2006, 07:46 AM

The structure should work just fine unless you change your mind and do it 45 degree angle. I almost always do 12" O.C. just to be sure... and I recomend it no matter what decking it is.

I think using the screws it a LOT easier than using the staple gun... But I dont sink the screws all the way untill the next course is in, makes it a little easier to get it in.

I kind of like the idea of cutting back the size of the deck a little rather than doing a strip in the middle, unless you had a 40' run. I think it looks kind of cheesy on a short run like 20'

I use the PL polyurethane adhesive its like $6 ea for the big tubes. I would not be suprised if it voids the warranty any thing that any company can do to get out of warranty replacement they will try. But I think that CD is a strong enough product that you might not ever need the warranty.

I use Diablo blades with the LEAST amount of teeth for cutting CD it makes it so much better. I have tried using 40T on my circ for ripping and it just gets very hot and does not work well. They should last beyond the job. I use my circ saw for about 90% of my cutting (got real good with it when I was framing) I put a new blade in before cutting any composite and then I leave it in to cut the frame of the next deck. Then I toss it. My table saw and chop saw... I dont use very often for PT but if I do I swap the blade back to the POS that came with the saw and keep the diablos for the composite.

Stairs.... I hate stairs... at least the rail part of them. But I figure my rise/run and cut like normal then I lay them onto a piece of fascia and trace it so I dont need to mesure. But I dont cut the step parts

Then I continue like normal.

RobertCDF · 06-07-2006, 08:14 AM

Just had a better idea.... Piture frame the perimter then you dont have to cut the ledger and stuff as well as you can use the "classic" boards and not have the groove hanging over the sides. You could use GRK SS #8 T-10 trim head screws in the picture frame (DONT predrill with those except at the end of the board) Or you can buy the router bit that they sell on correctdeck.com and put the groove on just the inside and groove the end pieces. But I would just put a few screws and glue in the picture frame.

Downeast · 06-07-2006, 09:24 AM

So Robert ,looking at the CD web site for instalation of the CD Clasic,they are showing it screwed down on the face.Have you installed the classic ?

IHI · 06-07-2006, 11:58 AM

Robert: for the picture framing of the perimeter I like to leave the deck boards overhang the thickness of the lattice so once lattice is installed it's all on the same plane, then I'll take the 1x material so it comes out flush with top of deck boards and hangs below the rim joists so everything is concealed, doing it this way would save me from using the standard CD boards and allow the easier CX brand to be installed since you wont see any of the grooves anyways.

So the inside of your stair stringers are still PT lumber, but then you use CD for the treads and some sort of composite for the risers? By code here we have to have enclosed staircases so risers/treads are a must. Just trying to figure out a good way to do the stringers so it all looks uniform when done without having to box in then cap each stringer and then install the treads/risers. I'm probably over thinking this problem, so looking for the easy way out that looks nice and is solid to boot

thanks for the heads up, really helps out!!!

RobertCDF · 06-09-2006, 12:46 AM

I am not required to enclose the stair case but I do sometimes. I just rip fascia on the table saw or I use lap siding (heck of a lot cheaper than composite fascia) and have the homies paint it. Good luck with the deck (even though it is green

)

ant989 · 05-18-2008, 02:29 PM

Hello, first time using this site. I just got 50-12ft cx green boards that looked like they were dragged over rocks. Had 84 lumber take them back. What is the fuss over this correct deck? The boards looked like they were used. Is it the color Green? What is the next best product out there. Thank you Tony

MartyCD · 05-21-2008, 07:32 PM

Sounds like they got a little scuffed and dinged. I'm on the fence here, obviously I'm the manufacturer and can tell you that the scuffs and dings are not a problem and once the deck is down I can give you simple instructions on how to get rid of them; no long term harm is done. But then I respect that you have better things to do and should get material that hasn't been beaten around. Happy to help either way - Marty

**BuiltByMAC** · 05-21-2008, 09:45 PM

I wouldn't sweat it too much, Marty. If a guy chooses to make a sweeping decision regarding a composite deck company based on 1 order of boards that were obviously damaged in transit, that pretty much falls under the "Can't please all the people all the time" category...

We all know sh*t happens sometimes when stuff gets transported, he mighta even gotten a deal on the scuffed boards 'cause the yard was trying to get rid of them.

Mac