Best way to fasten rail between post? - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

232323 · 11-07-2009, 08:43 AM

What is the best way to attach a 2x4 rail between my fence posts? I was planning to cut the 2x4's between posts vs. running them through...just like the look better. Planning on a shadow-box fence 6' high. I've looked at fence brackets...but their an eye sore. Only thing I can come up is a toe-nail (using screws). This is a very cold climate so frost heave could be an issue. Thanks in advance.

Dairylander · 11-07-2009, 09:05 AM

What's the distance between posts?
What species of wood?

Chris G · 11-07-2009, 09:14 AM

Yes the brackets are ugly. They make nicer looking ones at Lee Valley.
Other than that, toe nailing with screws works fine.

Put your location in your profile.

Dairylander · 11-07-2009, 10:45 AM

If you're doing 6 foot sections of cedar, the toenailing will be fine.
If you're doing 8 foot sections of treated, I'd use a bracket.
Shadowbox fences have more weight because there are more pickets, so you might think about a third cross rail.
If you don't like the look of the joist hanger style brackets, maybe just use the "L" bracket style to support the bottom edge of each rail. They will help hold up the load, but are barely visible if you hide the vertical part of the "L" between the post and the end of the rail.
And remember to not "toe-screw" in from the top of the rail; that'll create a nice little pocket for water to collect.

232323 · 11-07-2009, 11:57 AM

Thanks for the replies. I'm going 8' between posts with treated lumber and 3 rails. May not be a good idea, but plan on using composite pickets at 5 lbs each (23 per section). Haven't thought much about the weight issue, but maybe I should. Rather than toe-screws, thought about using 5" torx through the post and into the ends of the rail .... then off-set every other rail for screw access. They would be hidden that way and less exposure to moisture. I would appreciate any information. It's my own house, but I still don't want to screw it up to bad.

232323 · 11-07-2009, 12:01 PM

I like the L-bracket idea and reversing them ... hadn't thought of that. Will check on those. What size would you use?

curapa · 11-07-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 232323

Thanks for the replies. I'm going 8' between posts with treated lumber and 3 rails. May not be a good idea, but plan on using composite pickets at 5 lbs each (23 per section). Haven't thought much about the weight issue, but maybe I should. Rather than toe-screws, thought about using 5" torx through the post and into the ends of the rail .... then off-set every other rail for screw access. They would be hidden that way and less exposure to moisture. I would appreciate any information. It's my own house, but I still don't want to screw it up to bad.

If I were you I would run 16' rails on the face and alternate the middle rail differently than the top and bottom so all of the cut ends do not end up on the same post. This will help the posts stand a bit straighter.

The rails can help the posts stay straighter when fastened to the face rather than between posts.

With the heavy composite boards you may want to step up to a 2x6 rail somewhere in the mix. It could look good as a top and bottom or maybe just in the middle?

TimberTech makes fence boards,.... should be way lighter if you had planned on using deck boards for pickets.