Will this cord work? - Page 2 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

TopFloor · 10-10-2009, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rselectric1

...a picture of the inside of that box...

I can do that:

TopFloor · 10-10-2009, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k

...How many amps would that sander pull at startup?

If it helps, the sander's stats are:
Motor type .....single-phase AC motor; Voltage .....230 V; Frequency .....50 Hz; Output .....2.2 kW; Fusing .....16 A; Insulation class .....B; Protection rating .....IP 54; Starting capacitor .....60 μF; Operating capacitor .....40 μF.

Here is a link to the OWNERS MANUAL. Pages 31-33 have circuit diagrams.

Thanks, Boman.

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnettica

...You might want to have 2 such set ups, one for the 3-wire, and one for the 4-wire.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 480sparky

.mebbe you should have a 3rd and 4th one for the two range receptacle possibilities...

It probably wouldn't hurt to have one for each of the most common receptacles. Maybe I should just go for the 'box set' and make one for each of these (not)

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxElectrician

As long as you're going for safety, go ahead and install a connector on the cable as well.

I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant

Please explain.

Metro M & L · 10-11-2009, 12:16 AM

I always wondered if this critter was worth it?

http://www.americansanders.com/produ...erbooster.aspx

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Metro M & L

...I always wondered if this critter was worth it?...

For what its worth:

Title: Power Up- Hook Up Power Safely
Author: Kim M. Wahlgren

"If you need to correct the voltage, a power booster can be placed in line, but keep in mind that most power boosters only increase or decrease the voltage by 10 percent. Power boosters have other advantages besides correcting voltage: they protect the sanding equipment against power spikes, they have a built-in volt meter, and some give you dedicated 110-volt outlets for your buffers and edgers so you dont trip the breakers in the house. You can buy standard boosters or have power boosters custom-built for your specific needs."

-from Hardwood Floors Magazine (June/July 2008); pg. 62

TxElectrician · 10-11-2009, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopFloor

I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant

Please explain.

You are correct in calling the plug and receptacle devices connectors. There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box.

The breaker is indeed a two pole so you're good to go on that!

Good to see someone going through so much effort to get it right.

480sparky · 10-11-2009, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopFloor

I would have thought the ends I have on there were 'connectors'. At the risk of sounding ignorant

Please explain.

You need to install one of these on each of the cords entering the box:

Also, there was a green screw that came with the box. Install that so the box itself is grounded properly.

My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.

boman47k · 10-11-2009, 08:39 AM

Quote:

My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.

__________________

I was wondering the same thing. Don't about volts, b ut 12 is rated for 20 amps, right? That is also the reason I was wondering what kind of amps the sander pulls at startup. I suspect it is more than the 16 amps posted.

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 09:39 AM

Thank,s 480Sparky. Your knowledge is a huge help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 480sparky

...You need to install one of these on each of the cords entering the box...

Hah! I thought it was strange for the cord to be just hanging without support, but just used what I had been given to make it. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 480sparky

Also, there was a green screw that came with the box. Install that so the box itself is grounded properly.

The green screw would go where? As the main screw which holds the cover on?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 480sparky

My next question is: What size is the cord itself? I'm guessing 12, which would be too small.

The cord is 10/3.

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxElectrician

...There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box...

Got it! I purchased these pieces from the local electrical supply and I think the staff was giving me the benefit of the doubt. That is, since the connectors are such an obvious necessity, they likely figured I would know to buy them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxElectrician

...Good to see someone going through so much effort to get it right.

Sure! I have only recently started taking on the sanding and refinishing. I subbed a job to a guy whose cord was cut at the end, the three wires splayed and connected dangerously to the fuse panel. I saw him get zapped disconnecting it! He did good work sanding, but the amateur electrical work overshadowed everything. I want my customers to admire my professionalism, not question it.

Magnettica · 10-11-2009, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxElectrician

You are correct in calling the plug and receptacle devices connectors. There should also be a fitting (connector) attached to the disconnect box to secure the cable to the box.

The breaker is indeed a two pole so you're good to go on that!

Good to see someone going through so much effort to get it right.

I agree. I despise when a floor guy comes onto a job and thinks he can do whatever he wants in the electrical panel. As if my insurance and permit will cover their poor judgement.

I dare to even say it but the OP might be best off using 2 insulated roach clips to attach to both main lugs and another 1 for bonding the circuit breaker enclosure. Kind of like my temporary service for doing upgrades.

picture

480sparky · 10-11-2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopFloor

.............The green screw would go where? As the main screw which holds the cover on?....

No. There should have been a bonding screw so the ground wire is bonded to the can itself. Without it, a short circuit to the can will not trip a breaker or fuse, but simply energize the can and create a potential shock hazard. Unless that can is not listed for use as service equipment, which in that small of one it may very well not be.

But you need to properly bond the can to the ground to prevent a potential shock hazard. Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail.

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnettica

...might be best off using 2 insulated roach clips to attach to both main lugs and another 1 for bonding the circuit breaker enclosure. Kind of like my temporary service for doing upgrades.
picture

Emphasizing that I am electrically challenged, whenever I hear 'roachclip' I always think of:

I checked out your photo link. Thats a nice temporary set-up. Hopefully I will get a skilled electrician to build something 'universal' and teach me how to use it, depending on each situation I may encounter. Thanks for your time in commenting.

TopFloor · 10-11-2009, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 480sparky

...There should have been a bonding screw so the ground wire is bonded to the can itself....you need to properly bond the can to the ground to prevent a potential shock hazard. Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail....

Got it. I am taking notes, 480, and plan to hit him up with all of these suggestions. When I get his answer I will post it. All your ideas are appreciated.

Magnettica · 10-11-2009, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopFloor

Emphasizing that I am electrically challenged, whenever I hear 'roachclip' I always think of:

I checked out your photo link. Thats a nice temporary set-up. Hopefully I will get a skilled electrician to build something 'universal' and teach me how to use it, depending on each situation I may encounter. Thanks for your time in commenting.

Your set up will be without the meter, obviously, and the reason for overcurrent protection is protect not only your equipment but your customers electrical panel from substantial damage. The reason for the clips is so you won't have to have the right circuit breaker for each panel you come across. It'll be "universal" as they say in the trade.

Good luck!

boman47k · 10-11-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Ask your sparky for a #10 ground pigtail

.

480, are you talking about running this pigtail off the green grnd wire to the can?

Ohmy · 10-12-2009, 07:12 AM

Nice work. You gotta do something to make your work for efficient. I agree with all posters. I would check on the single pole breaker issue (isn't your machine 240V?) Also, the suggestion for more plugs can be done. You have the basic set-up with the over current protection and the right plug for your machine. Now you can make different adapters for the front of your unit. If you run into a 4 wire dryer you would plug your adapter into the plug and your setup into the adapter. Same with over plugs.

480sparky · 10-12-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k

.

480, are you talking about running this pigtail off the green grnd wire to the can?

Yes. I can't tell from the pix, but it's possible the can isn't grounded.