Ufur

Chris Johnson

Just starting a foundation on a new home, electrician normally comes in and installs the ufur prior to inspection so I can pour.

People haven't chose an electrician yet.

House is ICF to the roof.

Do I pour the foundation and let the inspector know the ufur will be installed when we pour the walls? This happened on another job and was acceptable not having the bare copper in the foundation wall/slab.

Can I just install a ufur myself, I know I can, I didn't know if there was a science to it, 200 amp service. I believe I see #6 solid, 20' buried in the concrete and ground clamps attaching it to my rebar, leave enough free to reach the main panel, basically buy 30' and have enough hanging out for the 'future' electrical contractor.

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Chris

Magnettica

There is definitely a specific clamp you must use when attaching the #4 copper to the rebar. Someone here will know thew name of the clamp for sure. As an electrician, I have never been on the job to install this clamp.

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Magnettica

Oh, and not that it matters much, but the correct spelling is Ufer, with an e.

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Bkessler

I think all you need is 20 feet of rebar embedded in the concrete with the end sticking up where the panel will be located. Then the clamp is servicable.

Chris Johnson

Yah, that's what we did years back, for the past 3 years I have seen copper line being used, figured it was code change.

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Chris

Bkessler

I have done the copper lining when it is specked out like in schools but I just wired a house in Santa Ana and it was just connect to the 20' of rebar and bond the water line. Although California throws a lot of surprises at ya!

Celtic

Now, go give me something a little better than "orange"....no fruits, no vegetables.

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Chris Johnson

Thank you MR. Celtic, I'll give you a new color option.

Not trying to split hairs here, can you define 'Direct Contact with Earth', the reason I ask, we are building on solid rock, no undisturbed earth within 100' of the new house (and even that is shallow (<2' deep) because of the rock we are on) other than the fill being brought in for landscape purposes at the end of the job.

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Chris

Celtic

The pour would need to be in direct contact with the earth(dirt)...which you seem to have none of


How is the plumbing being brought in on this site?

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Chris Johnson

Footings/foundation directly on rock, between 36" and 12" of 3/4 clear inside the house, plumbing gets put in that out the front (36" area) and taken to a holding tank/ejector tank, then pumped another 300+' to the septic tank and out to the field. 'Earth' fill will be brought in around the exterior of the house for landscape and to create drainage...No Basements in my neighborhood...unless your the bank.

So plumbings not an issue. What about the Ufer? Is this going to be an issue?

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Chris

Celtic

I asked about the plumbing because of the way the code is written....IF you have a footing w/earth ~ go with the ufer(#3 in the image).....if NOT, copper plumbing(#1 in the image) would be a choice ~ IF in contact w/earth for 10' .

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Chris Johnson

There is a well somewhere on the property, all the water feeds I've seen so far are the dreaded PVC.

Sounds like I pull the inspector in early, this sounds like a questionable thing only he can answer.

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Chris

Bkessler

I think building on rock constitutes being in contact with earth. what do you know about two service drops for one property?

Chris Johnson

I ran into this one last year, ask for an upgraded service from PG&E...no charge, do a new service and bend over they won't even kiss you

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Chris

Celtic

I agree.
From the description given, it really needs a set of eyes on it and whats around that can be used here.

Sorry.

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Celtic

Is rock conductive?

I know we have driven rods 20+ feet and added some pixie dust in rough terrain.

I dunno?
What do you want to know?

I do know you should probably start a new thread for extra eyes

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Bkessler

I did start it an hour ago there's just been no reply's.

cmec

Hi Everybody
I understand what the code says but,
Anyone ever heard that copper on rock under the footer will crack it in a lightning hit ,your suppost to cover it with gem, so it absorbs water and has a place to expand so it dosent crack the footer

also the grounding detail celtic shows isnt everything suppost to be terminated on a buss bar?

thom

Boy, you guys do your ufers differently than we do.

Our foundations are not deep, there is no frost heave here, so we go 16" below grade minimum.

The footing has two parallel pieces of rebar, continuous (lapped and tied joints all). One piece of rebar is bent up, projecting up through the footing and stemwall where it terminates above grade. The electrician attaches his bonding wire to the rebar with a standard ground clamp, in the wall. the connection must be accessible so we screw a mud ring to the stud adjacent to the connection and put a double blank cover on it.

Ponsse

The concrete guys around here will either bend the rebar up inside where the wall will be underneath the future panel, or if they're pouring a slab they will leave a long piece of bar out past the forms so we can connect to the rebar outside the building just like if it was a ground rod