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04-17-2009, 09:56 AM
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#1
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Member
Trade:
General contracor
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 50
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Trouble shooting commercial fluorescent
I have 2 fluorescent lights in a beverage cooler that aren't working. First thing I did was replace the lamps. No go. Second thing was to check for voltage at each lamp holder, against the voltage of a known working fixture. Got the same voltage readings there. I called the manufacturer and they said that, that ballast was obsolete but I needed to check the cap also. I was told they could send me a new ballast for $220 (SLP $440) each if I needed them and that I could get a suitable cap locally if that was the problem. Could someone tell me how to check the capacitor? It looks like the cap is rared at 8.4. So heres probably a stupid question but, do I put my meter on 4uf, 40uf, 400uf or 4000uf? (After discharging cap) And what should the meter read? The ballast is 230v, single 75 watt HO bulb. And is the cap located inside the silver part of the assembly? Sorry this is so long and so many questions but, in order to trouble shoot any further a LOT of stock has to be pulled from this cooler. TIA!!!
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04-17-2009, 10:03 AM
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#2
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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Just replace the capacitor with a good one. If it fixes it great, if it doesn't you need a new ballast.
Why would the ballast be so pricey? Put in a new fixture for the same or less.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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04-17-2009, 10:13 AM
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#3
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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And learn to focus your camera
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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04-17-2009, 12:09 PM
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#4
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General Contractor
Trade:
Residential & Commercial
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,314
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Go to an electrical supplier and see what you can get a ballast for, if it ends up needing to be replaced. That's a lot of money
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04-17-2009, 12:22 PM
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#5
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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Depending on the bulb type T12, 8, 5 you may be able to get a universal ballast that will operate within the 120-277v range. I didn't see any 230 v ballasts while I was looking. Most were under $50.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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04-17-2009, 12:29 PM
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#6
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Electron Flow Manipulator
Trade:
Electrons for cash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,430
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First, try calling an electrician. He'll know what to do.
If you're hell-bent on doing this yourself, click here.
__________________
Age is just a number but mine is unlisted.
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04-17-2009, 12:48 PM
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#7
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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Any chance it is an older style with a starter can? Maybe it's just a bad starter.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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04-17-2009, 01:07 PM
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#8
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Electron Flow Manipulator
Trade:
Electrons for cash
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G
.......Why would the ballast be so pricey? Put in a new fixture for the same or less.
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It's a cold-start fixture.
__________________
Age is just a number but mine is unlisted.
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04-17-2009, 04:51 PM
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#9
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Pro
Trade:
Electrical & Carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Adirondacks of NY
Posts: 369
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You can check that capacitor very easily using your ohmmeter. Unhook the leads to the capacitor & put your leads across it & you should see it go up towards 0 ohms & then in a few seconds back to infinity. Reverse the leads & it should start at infinity & go to 0 & back. This is your battery charging of the ohmeter charging it. If it never goes up & stays at infinity it is an open capacitor & if it goes to 0 & stays there it is shorted.
As long as you see it charge & discharge on your ohmeter the capacitor should be good.......
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04-17-2009, 05:54 PM
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#10
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God Bless America
Trade:
Electrician
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rahway, New Jersey
Posts: 3,400
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Capacitors are measured in farads.
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04-17-2009, 06:37 PM
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#11
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,529
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You need to scrap what you have, maybe use the lamp holders maybe replace the lampholders. Coolers arn't that cold and what I often do is run some t-8' off of a instant start ballast for about $16 which has a 0 degree start temp. There would be a number of ways to handle the lampholders.
Or you could buy a ho ballast for $40 and wire it to your existing lampholders.
There would be a couple of other ways to do it too.
I've done tons of cooler and freezer lights and there is no way a ballast would run you more than $50 except maybe the Anthony ballast which would fit in the door mullion of a reach in and burn a 5 ft t-8's. Even the Anthony's can be replaced with a $16 ballast in a pinch.
pm me if you want.
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04-17-2009, 08:09 PM
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#12
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DGR,IABD
Trade:
Electrical; Commercial and Residential Service
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 9,665
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I'd scrap that ballast and cap and just put in something "normal". That's antique technology that's going to cost you big for an exact replacement. Just put in an HO or VHO ballast (or whatever matches up with the lampholders the fixture has).
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04-17-2009, 09:03 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 722
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Is this walk in cooler?
What brand are the doors? Anthony
Most of the door manufacturers, Anthony, etc. The ballasts are made by Universal, even if they are branded Anthony.
But do as already mentioned and update it to something cheaper and better.
I really hate these new doors with the tiny ballasts in the mullions, top raceway and just makes it more expensive to replace. And miss the old remote ballasts in the can, where there was flex at the top of the mullions and the cans mounted on the wall above the doors, or on top of the coolers.
In fact I still have a case of Anthony ballasts in the cans, just 2 single lamp, and the rest are 2 lamp. But they are 120 volt and are not HO.
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04-17-2009, 10:38 PM
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#14
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Pro
Trade:
GC. Apprentice electrician
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 2,529
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Some of those old coolers have grody wiring and lamp holders besides a stone age ballast.
The way i usually retro old coolers is to take a listed display case strip with the cord end for a remote ballast. Knock off the old lampholders and mount my new strip over the old crap. Fish my cord someplace that is warm, has power, and enough room to mount an instant start ballast. Tube guard on the t-8 lamp.... New ballast, new wires , new lamp holder, new bulb, = easy maintenance.... All for about $125 installed.
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04-18-2009, 06:30 AM
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#15
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Pro
Trade:
Electrical & Carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Adirondacks of NY
Posts: 369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnettica
Capacitors are measured in farads.
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Yes they are, But apparently you have never checked any.  Please keep your sensless "2 cent" comments to your self when you don't know. You have done this before on my replies & Frankly you have a problem with me. Anyone can state what you said !!!!!!!! The guy asked for information on how to check to see if the capacitor is any good- & that is what my answer is about. This is how we checked them out in the Field in industry.
You should sometimes keep your "2 Cents" worth out of it if you really don't know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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04-18-2009, 09:22 AM
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#16
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Member
Trade:
General contracor
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 50
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Thanks!
I knew I would get my chops busted at least once on this one. 
480; Thanks for the link. That's better than any others I found. Leo; If you knew what I had to go thru to get those pics with a cell camera....... Magnettica; Yes I realize that and I have a meter that will read mfd's. I've just never used that function on it before. Mr.Mike; Thanks. I was going to use that method if I had to. Kgmz; I don't know what brand cooler or doors they are but the ballast is Ardco out of Chicago. Ballast is mounted above the door on the frame on the inside of the cooler. The lights are mounted vertically between the doors. Bulbs are 60" HO 75 watt T-12's. To all others with input I thank you. I had thought about replacing the antique ballast and cap with a newer cheaper one and that's probably what i'll do but; I wanted to run all my options on this. This is a drink cooler in a convenient store that I maintenance. They have been a very good customer for me and I want to do the best I can for them. Again I thank every one.
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04-18-2009, 09:26 AM
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#17
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LRG WoodCrafting
Trade:
Professional Sawdust Producer
Join Date: May 2005
Location: USA, Connecticut
Posts: 3,886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWCostruction
Leo; If you knew what I had to go thru to get those pics with a cell camera....... .
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I figured it was a cramped shoot. Just busting your chops. I fixed it up so it could be seen using Focus Magic.
__________________
Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HusqyPro
Carpenter by day.
Mad scientist by night.
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http://lrgwood.com
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The Following User Says Thank You to Leo G For This Useful Post:
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04-18-2009, 04:17 PM
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#18
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Pro
Trade:
General, Electrical, and Plumbing Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, OR & Eatonville, WA
Posts: 722
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Since the ballast says Ardco, they are probably Ardco doors which is now owned by Anthony Door.
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