Need A Hole Saw For 6" Can Lts.

NewL

Doing a remodel with recessed lighting. Ceiling is drywall and tongue & groove about 1.25" What hole saw is recommend to cut the holes and what's the best place to get one.

Thanks

Chuck

Robie

If you Google 6" hole saws, you'll come up with quite a few choices.

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jbfan

I think greenlee makes an adjustable one. I have seen something at lowes or hd.

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Teetorbilt

The box stores carry them. Make sure that you have enough drill for the job and, if there is any height involved, you may want a spotter with 911 preprogrammed. Having a 6" hole saw bind can take you for a ride. I mostly use a RotoZip, you can set the depth just in case there is some Romex where the hole is.

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sundogusa

That would be my choice. Use the carbide bit. Less smoke.

Tom R

I definitely would not use a 6" hole saw on a finished ceiling, - - one slip-up and you risk all that repair, - - rotozip works just fine.

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erikthered

They also make a circle cutting tool for sheet rock once you scribe the paper you will get clean circle just make sure you find the studs first

Teetorbilt

erik, go to the top. We are discussing 3/4 T&G.

I have one of those wheelie deals but it hasn't seen daylight since RotoZip came out with their circle fixture.

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mdshunk

Those adjustable Greenlee ones will not cut wood. I have one, and only use it on plaster, drywall, and acoustical ceiling tiles. That's all it's good for.

You say 6", but I highly doubt you need one exactly 6". I have actual Lennox bi-metal hole saws that are 4-1/8, 4-3/8, 4-5/8, 5-5/16, 6-3/8, 6-5/8, and 6-7/8. All of these sizes are what I use for recessed cans in ceilings other than drywall (like wood). I've never needed one exactly 6" for anything.

Using a hole saw that big can send you for a loop. There is a little technique involved in it. It helps to get a longer pilot bit for the mandrel, so that you can drill completely through with the pilot bit first before the saw teeth are anywhere near the finished surface. Keep the saw running dead parallel with the surface being sawed. Set the drill's clutch so that it will slip very easily, but still just barely saw. This will help a lot if the saw gets a little jammed, so that it won't jump out and screw up the surface. Don't even consider hole sawing this big without a clutch on the drill. I use my 18V cordless drill for these big hole saws.

Be advised that a hole saw this big will run in the 75-100 dollar range, and might be special order depending on where you live. The Rotozip might be the better option. More control and cheaper. Definately a lot more dust, though. Get a strong light set up before you Rotozip a hole, as the dust will make your line disappear into the haze quickly without good strong light.

erikthered

Your so right my bad. Then let me tell you an easy way to cut the 6" hole just use a plunge router with a collar take a trim ring screw it to the ceiling where you want the can and follow the ring it will be a picture perfect cut.

mdshunk

Seriously? I'm picturing irate customers, barking about screw holes in the T&G ceiling. I'm not sure I'd be so anxious to try that method. In fact, installing old work cans is scary in general. It is a hit and miss affair. I'm still waiting for the X-Ray vision tool.

erikthered

When you screw the trim ring up and then take it down the new ring will cover the screw holes

Speedy Petey

I'll add my vote for the Rotozip. I use the hell out of mine.


Someone mentioned the carbide bit for wood??? Hey, if your bit is smokin', it's time for a new one.
I can't see the tile bit working so well in soft wood.

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NewL

I hadn't thought of the router it would make a nice clean hole... but I worry about the bit hitting a nail.

I never used a rotozip on wood. Would it be fine cutting the T & G? I was leaning toward a bi-metal hole saw or a jig saw. The ceiling is still unpainted sheetrock.

Chuck

erikthered

You can also use a forsner bit

Teetorbilt

A RotoZip works fine on wood but if you havent tried it before, practice on some scraps first to get the hang of it.

I haven't seen much that a RotoZip won't cut. I have all of the toys for mine.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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Capt

So instead you take a coat hanger--put a right angle bend in it to 3'' aprox.(1/2 the hole dia.) Poke it into center of your proposed can location and turn it to feel if it hits obstructions. If not start cutting, or you spackle an 1/8" hole. Does this make sense?

Teetorbilt

New ideas are always welcomed here and your 'periscope' is not one that I have used before. It is an excellent procedure BTW, I'm filing it for future apps.

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

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mdshunk

Perhaps you are unaware that you are asking a seasoned veteran master electrician if a well-known trade practice makes sense? Perhaps you have never completed such a procedure, cut in your hole, and found a pipe, wire, x-braces or other things crossing in the way that weren't indicated by the bent wire probe? In any event, if you only probe 1/2 the diameter of the can, how do you propose to probe further for the junction box and associated bracket? Hey, don't get me wrong. I'm pretty successful with using a bent wire probe, but every once in a while you get screwed hard, despite your best efforts.

Teetorbilt

Personally, I use a bore scope. It requires a 5/16th hole and is generally pretty useless as the lense gets covered with insulation and other crap. Don't tell my son, he bought it for me for Christmas 2 yrs. ago.
It is perfect for inspecting rifeling in gun barrels, it's only use now. I may go into proctology. NOT!

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein