Motor Capacitor

 
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:33 AM   #1
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Motor Capacitor


I have a industrial shop vacuum, the type used to suck up wood chips into large bags. It has a single phase 1 1/2 HP capacitor start motor that directly drives a 13-14" impeller. It has been developing less and less suction over the years. I was wondering if the capacitor had anything to do with full power running of the motor? I don't think so, but I have checked everything else and it seems to be in order. The last thing to check is the motor. The plate on the motor is vague and says:

Induction Motor
1.1 KW
RPM 3450
Type E
Phase 1
1 1/2 HP
60 Hz
2 Pole
No current rating listed

Thanks

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Old 09-11-2006, 04:42 PM   #2
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Re: Motor Capacitor


You motor is a CSIR (capacitor start, induction run). The cap just starts the motor. I'd rather suspect that the bearings are getting tight on the motor or the impeller eye end, the system has developed a leak or leaks, or the impeller is getting worn smaller if it physically sucks the debris over the impeller. Any of these items will reduce the performance of the super sucker thing-a-ma-jig. Take an amp draw on the motor and compare it to the data plate to rule the motor in or out.


EDIT: You say it doesn't have the current draw listed, but it does. This might be a motor intended for the european market (or canada), because it's listed in Kw. If the motor is connected at 120 volts, the amp draw would be around 9.1. If the motor is connected at 208V, the amp draw would be around 5.3. If the motor is connected at 240V, the amp draw would be around 4.6. This is at full load. Just sitting there running it won't draw near that. Shut all your blast gates to get something closer to full amps.

Last edited by mdshunk; 09-11-2006 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:56 PM   #3
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Re: Motor Capacitor


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Originally Posted by mdshunk View Post
You motor is a CSIR (capacitor start, induction run). The cap just starts the motor. I'd rather suspect that the bearings are getting tight on the motor or the impeller eye end, the system has developed a leak or leaks, or the impeller is getting worn smaller if it physically sucks the debris over the impeller. Any of these items will reduce the performance of the super sucker thing-a-ma-jig. Take an amp draw on the motor and compare it to the data plate to rule the motor in or out.


EDIT: You say it doesn't have the current draw listed, but it does. This might be a motor intended for the european market (or canada), because it's listed in Kw. If the motor is connected at 120 volts, the amp draw would be around 9.1. If the motor is connected at 208V, the amp draw would be around 5.3. If the motor is connected at 240V, the amp draw would be around 4.6. This is at full load. Just sitting there running it won't draw near that. Shut all your blast gates to get something closer to full amps.
Thanks MD,
I thought of something I didn't check out. The filter bags. I guess I could get some new ones for about $50 and see what happens. The impeller is 3/16" steel and if it has gotten smaller my wood must be pretty abrasive.

I pretty much new that the capacitor was for starting, I just wasn't positive if a bad one could reduce the power of the running motor. The dust collector is going on 10-11 years now and has done a good job up until lately. I also knew about the KW conversion, it's a 120VAC so the (1100w/120V=) 9.1 should be right. I just listed what was on the plate. Thanks for all the info. I am thinking about getting a cyclone vacuum system, a 2 1/2 HP-1350CFM, mmmore power . Any info you have would be helpful about these systems.
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:54 PM   #4
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Re: Motor Capacitor


Slap three coats of Behr paint on it. I hear that stuff really sucks.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:48 AM   #5
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Re: Motor Capacitor


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Slap three coats of Behr paint on it. I hear that stuff really sucks.

That would only be a temporary solution, the paint would peel in a week and then it wouldn't be there anymore to help with the sucking. .

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