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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: kitchen remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2
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Kitchen Electric Question
I'm a kitchen designer, and I just did a kitchen. The countertops are not in yet. It was the first time in a very long time that I was responsible for the entire labor. I did the electrical plan.
I neglected to specify a separate circuit for the microwave. There is a separate circuit for the refrigerator. The woman's ex husband asked me a few questions about circuits, etc. after the work was done, so I checked it out thoroughly. My husband is an electrician, but he does not do electrical work for me, so he was able to help me out. It appears that there are 18 individual receptacles on ONE circuit and 2 on another separate circuit. The 2 are at the end of the peninsula, unlikely to be frequently used. The 18 includes two 2-receptacle boxes in the large part of the room just beyond the kitchen, plus plug mold receptacles along the backsplash, plus a spot where the Microwave was designated to be and identified as such, also in that countertop area. I saw that a fancy 4-slice toaster alone can take 12-15 amps. Her microwave takes 11 1/2 amps. She also has a coffee maker plugged in, and I don't know how much that takes. My question is, isn't it REASONABLE, not so much to have the electrician automatically do a separate circuit for the MW (it doesn't have to be a separate circuit by code) although he could have brought it to my attention as an option, but to at least more evenly distribute these receptacles into the 2 circuits? I never had this problem before, so I just didn't think of it beforehand, never had to specify to an electrician how to distribute receptacles on circuits. There was a contractor on the job as well, who did not catch this, but I'm responsible for the payment to the contractor. Cabinets are in, countertops are not. If the toaster and MW are both on, the circuit will trip. What would you do at this point? And, who's responsible for what? Also, I should have specified that the plugmold be gfi protected. I used to always do that, but slacked as years went by and it always automatically got done by the electricians. None of the plugmold receptacles are gfi protected, or the receptacle where the microwave is going. It would be difficult logistically but hopefully not impossible to add a separate circuit now, for something. I'd have to see if there is room in the box. Please picture one long run. Far left end: microwave, 11 1/2 amps Next to microwave: 22" of countertop with plugmold. Probably coffee maker will go here. Next to that is the gas range. Next to that is countertop with plugmold, maybe 5' of plugmold. The toaster will go here, I think. End of peninsula, plugmold with 2 receptacles. larger room - (2) 2-receptacle outlets. What's a good solution at this point? Thank you! Last edited by kitdesigner; 02-26-2007 at 06:19 AM. |
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#2 |
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Electrical Contractor
Trade: Electrical
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NY State
Posts: 2,179
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Re: Kitchen Electric Question
Your electrician is a goon!
-The counter area receptacles, plugmold or not, MUST be GFI protected. This IS code. -If the micro is in a dedicated space, or is permanently mounted, it must have a dedicated circuit. -The kitchen area receptacles may NOT share a circuit with other rooms. The kitchen "area" includes the DR, EIK, nook, pantry, etc. All kitchen related rooms. - YES, 18 receptacles in a kitchen is completely stupid. Whether it is code or not is not the point. Also, 18 is a LOT of receptacles for the average kitchen. How many are serving the counter? Does this number include each receptacle of the plugmold? If so then scratch this part. Solution? Add at least two to three circuits. Make each section of plugmold (more than 3') a separate circuit. Make the microwave a dedicated circuit.
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Last edited by Speedy Petey; 02-26-2007 at 06:55 AM. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Trade: kitchen remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2
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Re: Kitchen Electric Question
Oh, thanks, I thought I may get in trouble because of what *I* forgot to specify and if the responsibility's mine, I will accept it! The microwave is in a cabinet which has a retractable door in front of it. It's not built in per se, it could be easily removed, but it has a "home" in that spot, which was on the plan as where the microwave is going.
microwave-2 single receptacles/1 double outlet box -2 end of peninsula-2 single receptacles in the plugmold strip -2 just beyond the kitchen - 2 double receptacle boxes -4 The other 10 receptacles on the left and right of the range, the left side, probably 3, the right side, probably 7. That equals 18 all together. OK, I'll look into adding more circuits and will have to tell the customer it's going to be more money. Thanks very much. Any other input is very appreciated. I looked at the original invoice from the contractor to me and it says "move" circuits for DW and Refrigerator as needed. I have no idea what that means. Last edited by kitdesigner; 02-26-2007 at 08:06 AM. |
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#4 |
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Thom
Trade: General Contractor/Homebuilder
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 3,197
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Re: Kitchen Electric Question
Our IRC rules:
separate circuit for microwave separate circuit for diswhasher/disposal 2 @ 20A (#12 wire) circuits minimum for counter top recepts. May extend to recepts in kitchen areas (dining for instance) but not lighting. Refrigerator may be on a circuit with other stuff but it is preferable (and the way we do it) on it's own circuit. Our local codes do not let us extend our countertop recepts beyound the countertops, and a max of 4 recepts on each circuit. We must have a separate dining area receptacle circuit with a max of 4 recepts. |
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