Ferreting out unfinished wiring - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Tinstaafl · 08-19-2008, 07:11 PM

I just inherited an attic finishing job (making it into an apartment), with the original contractor having been fired after two years of putting in the occasional desultory appearance. Drywall is up and painted, and there's a rough electrical inspection sticker on the box.

So far, I've rooted out four buried outlet boxes and a vanity light tail in the bathroom, but I still have three circuits that start in different boxes and go "somewhere" behind the drywall, never to emerge. I'm armed with a VOM, a ~$50.00 tone generator and a modicum of common sense, but at this point it looks as though I'm going to have no choice but to start making that (nice job, BTW) drywall look like Swiss cheese, Alpine Lace variety. Some of the cavities behind the drywall are deep enough that the toner just can't pick up the signal.

I have to either find these wires or run new ones in order to meet code, and to have a functional apartment even if code wasn't an issue. Anyone have any magic tricks?

And no, I'm not going to pop for a several-hundred dollar tool for this one job. Unless I get to star on a TV show.

mdshunk · 08-19-2008, 07:29 PM

Where are you at, Tinstaafl? I live in Cumberland County (Ship), and do most of my work in Franklin County. I'd be willing to give you a hand with regard to bringing out some tracing equipment, if that's of any interest to you and you're nearby.

Tinstaafl · 08-19-2008, 08:11 PM

I'm in Enola and the job is in Carlisle, but it's pretty low-budget. MOF, I'm not sure if I can afford me, let alone bringing in outside help. The job is T&M, the owner is in NY, and I'm awaiting his second payment. He seems like a good guy, but the jury's still out as to the reason for the previous contractor's lack of enthusiasm. Everything is on hold at the moment--which is why I have the leisure to look for ideas instead of just plowing into it.

I do appreciate the offer, though. PM me w/your rates and I'll keep you in the hip-pocket list.

No magic [cheap] answers?

Jerry

Magnettica · 08-19-2008, 09:16 PM

Instead of damaging the sheetrock, notch the exterior finish!

Tinstaafl · 08-19-2008, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnettica

Instead of damaging the sheetrock, notch the exterior finish!

BTDT. <g>

Unfortunately, most of the exterior finish is shingled. Somehow, I think pulling the roof sheathing would be less than an optimal solution.

Jerry

woodchuck2 · 08-19-2008, 09:38 PM

Might better pull the base board and use one of them new defangled fiber optic scopes and look in the walls from the bottom. Any small holes you make you should be able to cover back up with the base board. You can buy the scope through Northern Tool for $249, the local hardware store i deal with has them for $329.

Tinstaafl · 08-19-2008, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodchuck2

Might better pull the base board and use one of them new defangled fiber optic scopes and look in the walls from the bottom.

Those are really enticing, but so far I've managed to hold off on getting one. Exterior walls usually have insulation in 'em, which tends to reduce the efficacy of a scope. And in this attic, with kneewalls, practically nothing is uninsulated. And, two of the three circuits in question are up in the ceiling/raftermess where you couldn't get at them that way.

Tip: When sending wire down from an attic space, drill TWO holes in the top plate. One for the wire, and one for seeing where your wire is going. Of course, if the cavity is insulated, that'll do you as much good as the above-mentioned scope.

Jerry

neolitic · 08-19-2008, 10:21 PM

I have had some success,
using a halogen lamp shown
across the face of the drywall
for tell-tale humps.
Followed up with a deep scan
stud sensor and lots of patience.
I settled on a sharp range pin
for a probe to "prove" a box.
If I was wrong, and I frequently was,
I only had a 3/16-1/4" hole to patch.
Pretty low on my to-do-again list.

Tinstaafl · 08-19-2008, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

I have had some success,
using a halogen lamp shown
across the face of the drywall
for tell-tale humps.
Followed up with a deep scan
stud sensor and lots of patience..

That's a good one! I often find 'em with a 4' level used as a rocking straightedge, but a lamp would cover more territory in one application. You've given me another idea, though. My deepscan stud sensor also includes AC detection. I'll try hotting up one of those circuits and see just how deep its range is. Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by neolitic

I settled on a sharp range pin
for a probe to "prove" a box.

Ernh? "sharp range pin?"

Jerry

neolitic · 08-19-2008, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinstaafl

That's a good one! I often find 'em with a 4' level used as a rocking straightedge, but a lamp would cover more territory in one application. You've given me another idea, though. My deepscan stud sensor also includes AC detection. I'll try hotting up one of those circuits and see just how deep its range is. Thanks!

Ernh? "sharp range pin?"

Jerry

"Chicago pins", chaining pins, range pins.
http://www.stakemill.com/store/bmz_c...ge.384x112.jpg
A 14" long steel pin with loop on one end
and a sharp point on the other.
Something else will do, these are a carry over
from my early days as an engineer.
http://www.stakemill.com/store/index...roducts_id=271

747 · 08-20-2008, 12:32 AM

I would definately have one of these if i was a sparkey. I think it would come in handy for seeing what is behind a wall. http://www.lockpicks.com/18obedientf...koutscope.aspx

Tinstaafl · 08-27-2008, 07:07 PM

Just a postscript to this quandary...

The owner turned out to be a Good Guy, paying promptly with no complaints, as well as an advance on more work. With that sort of encouragement, my perspicacity blossomed, and I was able to locate the circuits in question with only two holes that needed to be patched.

All three ended in boxes set flush with the joists, thus no telltale belly in the drywall, and one of them was a complete "What was he thinking?!?" that I just capped off and left unconnected at both ends for someone else to wonder about ten years hence.

Whining over. For now. <g>

Jerry

neolitic · 08-27-2008, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinstaafl

Just a postscript to this quandary...

The owner turned out to be a Good Guy, paying promptly with no complaints, as well as an advance on more work. With that sort of encouragement, my perspicacity blossomed, and I was able to locate the circuits in question with only two holes that needed to be patched.

All three ended in boxes set flush with the joists, thus no telltale belly in the drywall, and one of them was a complete "What was he thinking?!?" that I just capped off and left unconnected at both ends for someone else to wonder about ten years hence.

Whining over. For now. <g>

Jerry

Magnettica · 08-28-2008, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinstaafl

BTDT. <g>

Unfortunately, most of the exterior finish is shingled. Somehow, I think pulling the roof sheathing would be less than an optimal solution.

Jerry

I was definitely being sarcastic.

sorry about that.

mickeyco · 08-28-2008, 04:08 PM

Hire a ferret, they work cheap and don't eat a whole lot.

.

Tinstaafl · 08-28-2008, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnettica

sorry about that.

No need to apologize! Sarcasm aside, there actually have been a couple of times I found it expedient to pop a bit of siding off to get at something from the backside.

It's called "Thinking outside the box".

Jerry