Is This 3-way Switch Possible?

Greg Di

Hi Guys,

I'm wondering if some of you sparkys (especially MD) can help me wire these two 3-ways in my own house. I don't want to even ask my electrical sub, because it will become a big ordeal politically...

Essentially, I want to have (2) 3-way switches control two light fixtures (one at the top of the steps and one at the bottom with a switch at each location). The dilema I have is that I can't change the existing wiring without doing a lot of demo because the light (and switch) at the top of the steps is original to to the house. I added the fixture and switch at the bottom. The power feed (originally and current) is at the bottom as well. Adding the second fixture is throwing me for a loop. I can't find a diagram anywhere that shows the correct wiring.

The power feed is 14/2. All of the old wiring coming FROM the switch down to my new box where the power feed is is 14/3. From the old switch to the old fixture is 14/2. I can still get to the new fixture to run whatever I need to.

I hope I explained it well enough for you to help me.

mdshunk

To make sure I understand what you have, before I draw you a diagram:

In the new box at the bottom of the stairs, you have:
- a 14-2 hot and neutral power feed into that bo
- a 14-3 from the box at the bottom to the box at the top of the stairs

In the existing box at the top of the stairs, you have:
- a 14-3 arriving from the box at the bottom of the stairs
- a 14-2 from to the existing fixture at the top of the stairs.

If this is what you have, you're screwed. There's no way to wire without running more cable from the top switch to the bottom switch, or between fixtures. You can often take a cable from the top switch, fish up into the attic, fish from attic to basement along sewer vent or other means, and come up from the basement into the downstairs switch.

Greg Di

Yes. You are correct with regard to my wiring setup. The only other "negotiable" item is that I could pull the 14/3 from the bottom box (coming from the top box) and wire it to the fixture at the bottom of the steps (there's enough wire to reach).

Would doing that help?

mdshunk

Nope.

Greg Di

Thanks MD,

I guess I'll practice what I preach to my customers and do it the right way even though it involves ripping out some drywall. Actually, the drywall is pretty manky anyway, so this will be a good excuse to fix two issues!

On a side note, it feels good to finally correct 50 years of patch job wiring in my own house. A complete pain in the ass, but I was able to lose 3 jboxes in my basement.

zbwmy

What about adding an X-10 or Insteon switch at both locations?

sparkysteve

I've never installed one, but I know they make wireless 3-way switches. I've seen them and electrical supply houses and Home Depot. It's the "demo-free" option.

dmaher

You can do as suggested above with some x-10 devices. Do this alot for older homes and owners don't want to tear out ceilings or walls. Look at x10.com or homesmart.com I usually change out the main switch and use the surface mount RF transmitter. Don't forget you have to use a rf receiver also. Also use this alot to control outside GFI's, garage lights, and entry lights by using x10 devices and x10 photocell. Customer's love it.

mdshunk

Using an X10 type device is the same as saying "I give up".

99.9% of the time, there is a way to run a wire to do the job without doing demo. It's been years since I've had to say to anyone, "I can't do that unless I tear out this."

You guys are throwing in the towel too soon.

Sparky Joe

On second thought (after reading this question), I'm glad I don't have the reputation of MD

Good luck with that frustration brother

innov8

but there is a way!!
You run the neutral through the 14-3 to the top box and on to the fixture.(white stays neutral all the way) Connect the bottom switchs' common to power, and the other 2 legs (blk/red) to the 14-3 running to the top.
At the top you connect the travelers (blk/red) to the switched legs of the switch, and the black coming from the fixture to common.

faber307

Negative,
The new light is at the bottom of the stairs.
your setup would require a conductor from the top switch common to the bottom new light fixture.

Sparky Joe

I think a diagram would sure help here.

Or perhaps I should go back and read it again

Here's something that probably won't help....

faber307

Left side of your diagram would be the lower switch and right side upper. He has added a 2 wire romex from the lower switch box to a new light at the bottom of the stairs.
That's the way I read it.