Verdict On Drywall Adhesive Vs. Screws

d's

I got my boarders to start glueing on our last job. They bitched alot! Mostly about remembering to do it, screwing it off immediately, and getting it all over themselves - they'll eventually pick it up. I've transferred the prefilling/repair responsibility from the tapers to them and any hope of a raise is partly based on how many imperfections they leave - so now they have an incentive to reduce screw heads, misses, and board damage. They're starting to see the light.

The cost is around $5 a tube... if you can squeeze 10 twelve footers at approx 50sqf each then yes it's .01$/sqf. Pretty sure there's more labor cost in coating 10 sheets of spots 3 times than 5$ - but we'll have to see about that one!


Thanks guys,
D'S

Ancient Rocker

Sorry D, but if glue is applied correctly you will get about 4-12' for 1 tube of glue. If you only put a 1/4" bead of glue on each framing member, the glue will not adhere to such a narrow surface. Tell your hangers to "hang in there" because we are known to be very resistant to change. The first time I saw a router I laughed so hard I pissed my pants. Regardless of your initial cost, it is the strongest and best way to keep everyone happy.

Project_Pat

Lots of glue and lots of screws here.....But we typically have many curved walls, coffered, tray, coved, arched and domed walls and ceilings to tape and mud.

rbsremodeling

Gluing the sheet rock is fine. Until you have to remove it. I do mostly remodeling and having to pull of glued sheet rock is a biotch.

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d's

Hey Ancient, I was wondering about that. Most gluers I've seen were doing the blob technique which seems faster and uses less glue. Is the single bead preferred.

Capt-Sheetrock

I rest me case on "the reason most people like to glue is because they hate to spot screws"

I stated before that I DON"T glue, EVER. Just me okay? If you like to glue, then of course, processed sir!!!

I can remeber trying to talk contractors into using screws in the field, and haveing them say, well maybe, but go ahead and nail this one off and I'll think about screwing the next one.

For years and years, nails were fine, then screws, now screws and glue,, truth is if the house doesn't shift and a hurrican or twister don't hit it, any of the above mentioned ways of attaching drywall works fine.

Perhaps in a cpl mo years, we will be nailing,screwing, glueing,applying metal lath over it and skiming it with brown coat and then level 5'ing it too. I mean, its got to be better done that way,, don't it???

On a serious note tho, I think that I can spot screws three times, faster than I can use glue, and I will never trust glue,,, but like I said, thats just my take on it, Yeah, I've been doing this all my life, but I ani't got all the answers either.

And if things get too bad, heck, you can at least sniff the glue and get SOME enjoyment out of it

Peace guys

Remeber, "if the girls still alive at the end of the song,, It AIN"T bluegrass"

Ancient Rocker

I am not sure what blobbing is, but if the framing surface is only partially glued and the drywall is not flat and tight at the area where you put your blob, it will never be flat. One thing that also is a consideration is wall finish. Here we never texture new homes. The reason we glue is to create the strongest , flattest finish and the fewest fasteners for obvious reasons. I am positive every taper reading this would rather wipe one screw instead of three. I have NEVER taped in my life, so this gluing only coincides with what tapers prefer.I understand your financial concerns, but in a 200 sheet house the approximate cost for glue is $125. If you deduct $25 for using fewer screws, you should have room in your budget .

Softy

I've never heard of using glue for drywall and not sure if it legit here in Cali. What type of glue and do you apply in spot or long bead?

BattleRidge

nobody glues here. Nothing but screws.

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www.battleridgebuilders.com

A W Smith

In the sixties and seventies there were no screws. And to this day the 3/8 drywall on those homes holds up fine. But whats changed? plantation grown lumber. More shrinkage and unstable lumber. with rosin coated nails they can lose their grip and push out. Myself I use collated screws and about half the time use glue. three twelves to a quart. The only thing is, out of habit I still use a lot of screws. 3 in the field both walls and ceilings. as a remodeler, since I do my own finishing there's no one to bitch at me.

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Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

A+ Texture

My buisness is young and new, but I swore to never hang with a single nail. 100% screws.

DeanG

I can say that we nailed the perimeters for years, then switched to all screws about 8 years ago. No noticable difference in pops or deficiencies, as long as both are installed correctly. Those "blued" nails were WICKED great! The switch was to eliminate the "bash" marks in the angles, and to save our shoulders (the cordless screwguns were much easier on our joints). The change to glue was the biggest eliminator of long term trouble. Outside walls will still haunt us though, long term, especially with the blow in type wall insulations.

There was a memo sent out to us in the mid 90's saying the blued nails would rust, (texture) but we done hundreds of houses with them, and not one issue...ahh, the good ol' days!

d's

Looked up the application instructions on the web and they definitely call for it to be applied as a bead 1/4"-3/8" along framing members. A good tip was to trim the spout on two sides - makes the bead come out way cleaner. Told the boarders to screw the perimeter and put one screw every 2nd stud in the field and wherever it rattled and to only bother with glue on large sheets where screws will obviously be reduced. Getting there...

D'S

Ancient Rocker

Many years ago I checked every stud to see if the board was tight , and put screws in accordingly. I then had tapers and contractors asking about the seemingly random screwing. That is when I decided to screw every stud, because it is easier to put one screw in each stud than try to explain the randomness.The bottom line is , if you want the most secure,strong,tight ,clean hanging job ,your hangers will learn to glue PROPERLY. If you want anything less than that, keep screwing off

Capt-Sheetrock

you checked every stud???? really? are you a framer or a drywaller???

put in screws accordingly?? ain't that like three in the field??

did you say one screw in each stud???? did you really say that????

I don't how you been at it, but if you want the MOST SECURE WAY, to hang rock, you SCREW IT

Capt-Sheetrock

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Do you really think your hangers are going to check each sheet to see if its rattling???? are you for real???? I assume your paying by the borad??
if not your just hiring soup kitchen help, and you will have to check everything, like did they stand it up or lay it down??

dkendu

Nail and screw popping occurs with constant movement of the frame. Over time even having the best fastening job, drywall popping will happen. Adhesive along with screws will greatly reduce this problem. I will say that drywall replacement is much easier when hung with screws only. "Never be afraid of change"

TBFGhost

The trick is the get the glue to "stand up". To get this, cut the tip, not with the normal 45, but make it a 'V'. If you apply it that way you get a long bead that stands away from the framing members so irregularities are taken care of. You end up with a LONG triangle shaped "bead" with the base of the triangle on the framing and the point sticking out. The deeper the V the more it stands out.

Rockhound

Glue every stud except for the 'break' and/or corners....and SOMEtimes glue those too depending on the situation. We cut our tubes flat ,not an angle or a V, and hold the gluegun slightly sideways so the bead goes on standing up and do NOT drag the tip thru the bead. We dont check every sheet for rattles, we glue everything well and an experienced eye can see a stud thats bowed which causes the ones to either side to be recessed a little so we know which ones need screwed for sure. For the most part we screw every stud if it's 16" on center,every other if it's on 12". We do screw every other stud in some foyers and high rooms but for vaulted ceilings it's every stud and sometimes 3 in the field instead of 2.Walls get 1 in the field. The brand of glue matters MUCH!! We use Miracle DSA20 or OSI 38,not Liquid Nails not Tite Bond not Ace Construction Adhesive not Uncle Earl's Glue or any other off the wall 'money saver'. You save NO money when you have 2 times the glue on the floor as on the studs. If you think you don't need glue I hope you like callbacks.

KennMacMoragh

I have never seen glue used to hold sheetrock before, but I might try it.