Tape? - Page 2 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Tim0282 · 10-21-2009, 09:56 PM

That's a good one Capt. And I'd agree with you.

WNYcarpenter · 10-21-2009, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ebbo

Haven't heard the term California patch before. Had to look that one up. We call them blow out patches. Done hundreds of them myself. Maybe thousands. Or millions over the past 25 years.

We call it a buttetfly patch here...
I've used floor leveler also in a cram....then I dresses it it up with easy sand!

mics_54 · 10-21-2009, 10:20 PM

Quote:

But I feel that your asking "is there a way to SHORT CUT the process in a way that it won't come back on me before the warranty goes out?"

You sir are an arrogant presumptuous prig. You don't know anything about me or my ethics or my client. My question was how to make the job look the best cost effectively. Keep your advice because it's useless. The customer/owner is a close friend of mine and pays me by the hour to take care of his property which I use in his absence. So if this is your idea of advice I can only assume you project your own ethics.

Big Shoe · 10-22-2009, 07:39 PM

I pretty much gave up blowout patches a long time ago.I'll go into a place with a bucket full of 1x2's(plwood works best). Screw the blocks in,patch drywall and then tape. Seems way faster to me. Just my opinion after doing hundreds of patches over the years.

As for tape....small-4''-no......large-yes. Anything near a door...yes!

Capt-Sheetrock · 10-22-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mics_54

You sir are an arrogant presumptuous prig. You don't know anything about me or my ethics or my client. My question was how to make the job look the best cost effectively. Keep your advice because it's useless. The customer/owner is a close friend of mine and pays me by the hour to take care of his property which I use in his absence. So if this is your idea of advice I can only assume you project your own ethics.

You sir asked for advice,, I gave you some, you didn't like it,, fine

Proceed sir

mics_54 · 10-22-2009, 11:27 PM

troll

Capt-Sheetrock · 10-23-2009, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mics_54

You sir are an arrogant presumptuous prig. You don't know anything about me or my ethics or my client. My question was how to make the job look the best cost effectively. Keep your advice because it's useless. The customer/owner is a close friend of mine and pays me by the hour to take care of his property which I use in his absence. So if this is your idea of advice I can only assume you project your own ethics.

Look dummy, I been thinking bout this thread all day, here it is, mesh has NO streghten to it, its just quick,,,,, a flat run with mesh and hot mud OR a flat run with no tape and hot mud are the SAME!! Its the hot mud, not the mesh. Do what you wamt to do,, but quit FOOLING yourself that MESH tape does anything, it don't.

Heres an experiment for you,,, hang durarock, tape the flats with mesh, then run a brown coat on it, and then a coat of syn stucco. It will crack on its own, no vibration needed.

If EIF stucco will crack over mesh, do you think AP or Hot Mud won't???

I could be wrong,, only got over 30 years doing this,,,, I may be wrong

mics_54 · 10-23-2009, 09:45 PM

you need to read the original post. I didn't say anything about mesh.

Capt-Sheetrock · 10-23-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mics_54

you need to read the original post. I didn't say anything about mesh.

Okay, If I misread it, I am sorry

Anytime the paper is broken, it needs to be taped. In a situation like this, I usually find it easier and more prudent to just cut it all out and hang another piece around the whole thing, but either way will work, If you tape the cut areas.

Peace

SL-DRYWALL · 11-01-2009, 11:16 AM

I dont like any joints above door openings , as captain said replace with a solid board across the opening .

mrmike · 11-01-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Shoe

I pretty much gave up blowout patches a long time ago.I'll go into a place with a bucket full of 1x2's(plwood works best). Screw the blocks in,patch drywall and then tape. Seems way faster to me. Just my opinion after doing hundreds of patches over the years.

As for tape....small-4''-no......large-yes. Anything near a door...yes!

I have to 100% agree with this approach. I use the same method with good results-without the worry of any cracking down the road. I cut rectangles in the drywall & save it-cut a piece of ply a few inches longer on each end & then put a screw in the middle of a piece of the plywood strip. You can hold the strip down with that screw while you screw the perimeter sheetrock to it-take that screw out & install the "patch" screwing it to plywood - tape and mud, etc............

Brocktologist · 11-01-2009, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d's

In terms of prepping surfaces for floating patches you guys gotta try a can of spray adhesive. Just keep a can handy in your patch kit, a quick pass over the painted surfaces and then float over with your mud. Way less hassle than priming or sanding, sticks like

, and you can coat right away

I'd never not tape any patch over 3-4" diameter and anything smaller I always cut the board at a 45 angle so the filler(synco confill's the best) has something to anchor onto.

You can get 12"-150' rolls of fiberglass mesh that are great for bigger patches as you can cut it to just the right size(check ebay).

One trick I've learned is to recess your tape/mesh by cutting back the paint/paper surrounding your patch using a utility knife so the patch sits flush with the existing wall - that way you don't need to float it out as much. And if your going to cut out a patch to run wires, fix plumbing, etc... - cut the patch out using your hole saw at a 45 degree angle all around. When you replace the patch it'll fit perfect and be recessed because of the material the saw removed. This in combo with above and it'll all end up sweet.

D'S

It's nice to see experienced mudders around here. I never thought about using spray adhesive before I prefill. I do use spray over the prefill to make the mesh stick to my damp durabonded patch.
My guess is you seldom to never get callbacks (do to cracks).
I'll give you're method a try, thanks.

d's · 11-01-2009, 09:25 PM

Necessity is the mother of invention they say. I've done a couple of patch jobs in the past over paint where I was at final sand with the light and... oh look a tiny little bubble - I'll just scrape that out and touch it up...- oh look now everything's flaking away and it's all FUBAR and I'm screaming into my dustmask so no one can hear! Boy I sure could use a huff off my can of spray glue to mellow out. Wait maybe if I sprayed it on the paint before I mudded it wouldn't flake off. Hooray I'm going to be so popular on contractor talk.com!

D'S

BattleRidge · 11-01-2009, 10:37 PM

Yeah i do that with super 77, stuff will get you high as crap if your not careful too. Also if you go over a latex paint then I put the mud on and let it dampen the paint wipe it then coat it so it doesnt bubble. Hot mud isnt that strong and cracks pretty easy, cheap guys use only hot mud.

Brocktologist · 11-02-2009, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d's

Hooray I'm going to be so popular on contractor talk.com!

D'S

Let's not get carried away now.