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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: Plumbing
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
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Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)
I'm doing an extensive bathroom remodel (total gut job) and had to chose between plaster or drywall. I chose drywall mainly because I read that plaster could crack if the house settled, which was a concern.
I took someone's advice to use G-P's DensArmor® Plus moisture resistant drywall. After I hung the board, I wanted a pro to do the taping and finishing. But after calling six drywall contractors, only one was interested in the job. Unfortunately, the price was beyond my mother's budget (she owns the house), so the taping and finishing now fall on me. I kind of regret not going the blueboard and plaster route. Some of the drywall contractors I spoke to also do plastering, and said they could have finished the job in one day with plaster. So I'm guessing I didn't get much response from local contractors because a) they already have tons of work, or b) they figure it's not worth driving back and forth to the jobsite three days for a small job. Am I right? I know hindsight is 20/20, but would I have been better off if I used blueboard and plaster on this job? Any disadvantages to plaster? I just want to know for next time, in case I take on a similar project. -Ken the Plumber Last edited by Lone Wrencher; 01-28-2006 at 08:03 PM. |
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#2 |
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DGR,IABD
Trade: Electrical; Commercial and Residential Service
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 9,680
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Re: Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)
That might be more of a regional/geographical question. In my area, you wouldn't find a plaster/blueboard man to save your soul. And, yes, it would be right difficult almost anywhere to get a guy to finish just a bathroom. I see you're a plumber. Perhaps you could talk one of the drywallers you run across on the job to stop in a few evenings to finish it?
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#3 |
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Chief Toilet Mover
Trade: Bathroom Remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Posts: 14,078
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Re: Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)
Is this like Bizarro world or something? Around here there will be 1000 drywall guys and 1 plaster guy.
As a side note I can't imagine anybody who knows what they are doing needing 3 days to tape and mud your bathroom. It's easily doable in 1 day. 1 and 1/2 would be pushing it. If I was in your shoes I'm pretty sure I could find half dozen guys to choose from to do your job. You just gotta know which rocks to look under so to speak. |
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#4 |
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Custom Builder
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Re: Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)
Screw it, just do it yourself. It's a cake job.....the worst you can do is create more sanding for yourself.........and as a matter of fact, that is exactly how I teach my fella's.......I make them sand behind themselves......and they get good.....quick.
Bob
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Bob |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Trade: Plumbing
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
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Re: Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)Quote:
I've read Myron Ferguson's book and some magazine articles, but the only way to learn is actually doing it. I'm about two-thirds done with the job (most joints are second-coated). I started practicing in a closet and an area that will be covered by a long vanity. In the two weeks since I started taping/finishing, I've made a decent improvement in neatness/speed, but there is a real art/skill to this that only comes with years of experience. The taping/mudding part is actually a nice change, although I'm not looking forward to the sanding phase. -Ken the Plumber |
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#6 |
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Chief Toilet Mover
Trade: Bathroom Remodeling
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Posts: 14,078
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Re: Second-guessing Myself (plaster Vs. Drywall)
Here is a tip for you when mudding, worry about the high spots more than the low spots. In other words you aren't going to get a totally smooth finish on each coat you put on just starting out. But the next coat will fill in the low spots, but the high spots will cause you trouble and have to be sanded down. So if you are working your mud while you are applying it going back over the same spot again and again trying to get it smooth be more concerned with leveling the ridges down and not so worried about a void or low spot. The 2nd coat will cover in the low spots so imagine if you only had low spots and no high spots on that first coat - the 2nd coat could go on with little to no sanding or fussing of the dried 1st coat.
That should be your goal only having to sand the final coat. The 2nd and 3rd coats go over and wider than the the ones before so if you apply them right there is only sanding on the final.
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