Screwing Butt Joints?

RileyMN

I have been sheetrocking for only about a year and have a question about the best way to screw butt joints. The guy I originally learned from would put in 5 or 6 screws in all the butts when doing walls. I recently worked with a new guy who really seems to know his business and he told me to put 2 screws in on 1 sheet and 5 into the butting sheet. So on a wall where 2 sheets will butt in a corner, the first sheet would have the 2 screws and the butting sheet would have the 5 screws. He called this a floating joint. The reason he said to do this is to prevent the corners from cracking during any settling or shifting. Does the floating joint make sense or work? What is the best method for the corner butts? I am going to be doing a small rock job on my own soon and would appreciate any advice you seasoned pros can offer a rookie.

Thanks
Riley

woodworkbykirk

always butt factory joints to factory joints. typically i will do 6" o.c at butt joints because the sheet will float which makes it harder to get an even coat of mud on it. one further step is to "v- out " the joint, meaning on both joining sheets take your knife and to it into a v -groove, this allows a little more bond into the joint to help strenghthen it. most tapers ive worked with want this. they'll normally do it themself but if were still hanging and ahead of em. we'll make things easier on em by doing it for them to keep them happy

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SLSTech

Just a few quick items

You should really post an intro & put your location in your profile

You should look up what the code book states - you are going to be surprised

Speaking of surprises, look at USG's installation manual - it will help you out big time

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Tim0282

And like most GCs, you can should yourself to death...

Heritage

The building code has min. requirements for spacing, so that would require a spacing dependent on whether it's being applied to the ceiling or the walls.

Code aside, my very best drywall sub floats the ceiling corners by 12". Same philosophy. The Gypsum on the wall props it from underneath, but the 12" float prevents cracking from shifting.

This is especially useful for new construction, where 99% of builders ignore proper care and storage of lumber on the site. Moisture fluctuates dramatically, especially if you are building in the winter and the lumber is constantly soaking up moisture. I've seen it time and time again, where I visit a brand new house and crown mouldings have major differential cracks, nails and screws have popped from drywall, drywall has cracked in the corners. etc.

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sparehair

What does float 12" from the ceiling mean? Instead of a full sheet have a twelve inch runner around the room?

reveivl

Don't fasten within 12" of the wall.

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simplejack

Are we talking taping? I read the post and thought he is reffering to how many screws to put along a "Non-Tapered" joint...


I go every 4" to 6" MAXIMUM on the perimeter and 8" to 10" in the field...
perimeter means Factory or cut edge. (ALWAYS V-cut your "butt joints")


Floating Ceiling Corners out 12" sounds like Taping to me...I'm I off Topic?