Rotozip

matjone

I've started remodeling houses and I'm thinking about buying a rotozip. Any advice?

Mike Finley

Cordless! I use the Dewalt one, just used it today to cut through a 3/4 plywood subfloor from below. We use a rotozip for sheetrock all the time, I don't let my guys do any of that lipstick crap or measure and cut out holes, slap it up and cut it out with the rotozip.

works4me

It is a really good tool to have. The battery one is nice (it's not to powerful - and doesn't try to "take off" on you). I also have the electric (corded one) works good for some ceramic tile. the price of the bits (especially ceramic ones is getting pretty crazy on them though. I just paid $34.99 today for their new Xbit ceramic - 1 BIT- WOW. ended up not needing it - it's definately going back to the store. You will find lots of applications for it in remodeling

Patrick

What technique do you use to find the boxes after the boards are up? Ive seen magnetic things before

Mike Finley

mark em on the floor or anything along those lines, recored a quick tape measurement to the center of a box or can light or whatever before you cover it up is all it takes.

works4me

I mark the floor under each box also and I write the measurement to the top of the box from the floor. Stab it in a little above the box and zip around it in about 10 seconds.

Chris G

You can have mine. Maybe I am an idiot, (highly possible) but I hate the thing. Uncontrollable, and the bits glow red hot and break off.

works4me

There is a slight learning curve to using one. You have to "ride" what you are cutting out in a certain direction (clockwise/counterclockwise - I can't remember right now) - one directiion will pull you a little towards the box as you cut it (for a nice tight cut), the other direction will want to push you away from the box. Use the right bit for the job you are doing. I can do drywall all day with one bit, just go the right speed and let the bit do the cutting. It your going red/hot your bit is dull. you can adjust the guide up or down to get a good sharp section for use on an old bit. One of my guys have seen me cut hundreds of boxes and he still throws the thing down and says he doesn't like it. Stick with it - once you get the touch it can save you ALOT of time.

taper71

Measuring is for amatures. Takes too much time lol. You got to look behind the board after you set it in place and use your hatchet to mark the box on the drywall. Remember that you got to lift it as well so account for that, and use a key hole saw to cut to the edge of the box. Routers make a mess of wires. I believe that it is run in a counterclockwise direction. A very handy tool to have.

Capt-Sheetrock

its

counter clockwise for going around the outside of a box

clockwise for going inside, windows and door cuts

portor cable makes a medium bit that works great for all cuts, small enough to not make too big a cut for boxes, but big enough to cut doors and windows without using up a bunch of bits, when I don't have one of them I use the little bit (guide point) for boxes and the big bit (1/4) for widow and door cuts, put one of each on two differant routers, cause stopping to change bits between cuts is not feasable time wise

Drywall1

I'm gonna go and take a picture of the original rotozip. You guys will crap. My dad bought one of the first one's available. Mid to early 80's I think. Big as a darn coffee can. It will make you laugh.

Practice a lot and take note of tips here above. My hangers still get the little notches on the boxes, (that we have to tape) more than I like. I still to this day feel to be a good hanger you need to be a taper for at least a month. Opens your eyes a little bit.

Nate

__________________
Krieser Drywall
Krieser Insulation
www.KrieserDrywall.com

A W Smith

Oh I just stick the rotozip in the drywall till i snag some copper or smell wire insulation burning and I know I've found an electrical box.


seriously though I just mark the boxes (both sides) on the floor with my square then transfer them up the wall to their approximate height then rotozip.

__________________
Al Smith
http://www.awsmith.com

kgphoto

I just mark the center mark measurement on the floor, wall or ceiling close to the box and then stab the center, run to the right, hop over the edge and then run counter clockwise. Make sure to use piloted bits and set them to the correct depth. Don't rush, speed comes with practice and efficiency.

Griffino

You've started remodeling houses, you'll definetly need a rotozip. buy the nicest one you can afford, not the prettiest.

You need highest speed and power, you might not think so now, but after u replace one every 10,000ft of drywall hanging you will agrre then. The glowing red hot bit occures when you are pushing too hard, like another just said, you need to let the bit "ride". Also caused from bit being to dull.

One more thing to consider, if you work alone a lot; hire out the SR. You'll never be able to compete with those guys, unless your a massive dude with 4' long arms

Good luck on your venture.

Tscarborough

I can not control the roto with the normal bits, however, I have the 90 degree blade attachement and use the crap out of it for cultured stone and tweaking of, well, everything.

__________________
It ain't Rocket Science unless you are building rockets.

krobinson

RotoZip now makes a "drywall" router. I think it is called the DR1. 33,000 RPM and 6 amps, claims to maintain it's speed under load better than any other Roto model and has special venting to blow the dust away from the user. One of my rockers has it and says he's impressed.

Kim

theworx

Lately, usually cut out everything by hand (might miss a cut one out of fifty). On large jobs with lots of outlets, etc.. Bring in the Rotozip. Real time saver!!

Laughing about some of the problems some of you have had! Been there. Red hot bits, having it run away on you!! Just experience in using it. Gotta handle it gently and it will suck itself to the outside of the box you are cutting around (counter clockwise). Don't put pressure on it, you'll get the red hot bit thing happening! Make sure you use a guide bit as well. Will save you a lot of time!

My Rotozip has been a great tool. Bought the 90 degree attachment for it and it's awesome! Have the small saw blade for it (great for cutting out bad boards on hardwood floors, etc..). Also have the Diamond blade and has been invaluable because of the speed and accuracy you can cut ceramic tiles! Threw away my nibblers!

Funny, did one job where I let my helper use it to cut out potlights in a large ceiling. The electrician didn't clip the rings down for the lights. Ended up with about 20 ovals that I had to patch. As he ran the Rotozip around the ring, it kept moving on him!! You'd think he would have stopped after one or two .. You get what you pay for I guess (as far as a helper)!

Mike Finley

All you guys with control problems might want to look at a cordless verion.

Slower bit speed equals more control, you can spell your name with a cordless. Might take a hair longer to do your cut out, but this is dry wall we are talking about, it's not very resistant.

Tom M

Only downside is the amount of dust the motor blows. I beef up the collet for 3/16 bits on any wood cutting. I'm sure the cordless is good to have but I am sick of spending countless money replaing tools, if it aint broke I can wait.

Mike Finley

I'll replace any tool, any day of the week if it saves money. It will pay for itself and then start making you money.