Question about inside corners - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

Lone Wrencher · 12-04-2005, 09:14 AM

Hi, it's my first time hanging board, and I've got a nagging question I can't find an answer to anywhere.

Where you have inside corners (like where wall meets ceiling), is it okay to have a tapered edge meeting a flat edge? Most of the ceiling panels I've hung were ripped down, so most of the edges against the walls are flat. Now that I'm about to hang the walls, I'm wondering if I should rip one of the tapered edges off so that the inside corner will be flat edge to flat edge.

This seems like extra work, but I'm concerned that having two different edges will making taping inside corners more difficult (even though I'm having a pro do the taping and finishing).

So, what is the best way to hang board for inside corners: flat edge to flat edge, tapered edge to tapered edge, or flat to tapered? Is any of these acceptable? What about inside corners where wall meets wall?

(One more question: I assume that outside corners should always be flat edge on flat edge, right?)

Thanks for all your help.

-Ken the plumber

Glasshousebltr · 12-04-2005, 09:30 AM

A good mud man will work it all out, tapered preferred were you can but it's not that important.

We call treatment for an un tapered joint, build up. If your finisher complains about to much build up he might not be much of a finisher.

Build up and taper take almost the same amount of time.

Be sure to eliminate as much build up in the field of the cieling as you, he'll thank ya for that.

Bob

Tom R · 12-04-2005, 09:51 AM

Like Bob says, either way works out fine, but tapered edges are definitely preferred in most, if not all, situations, - - the idea being that the spacle build-up will get you back to 'flat'.

If I'm hanging the board vertically, - - I prefer to start at the outside corners so I can have tapered edges there, - - as the corner bead protrudes enough as it is.

JustaFramer · 12-04-2005, 02:28 PM

It's that what the 14" knife is for

Tom R · 12-04-2005, 02:38 PM

Sure, but I try to gear everything towards being more square when it's finished, - - not to mention spackle thickness is proportional to drying time.

If I'll be tiling an outside corner it doesn't even get a corner bead, - - that would just throw off the tile.

K2 · 12-04-2005, 02:56 PM

I think spackle and spackler are jersey terms unless your talking about that little can of stuff they used to sell at the corner hardware store. I havn't heard that term in any other part of the country. Just in case anyone was interested. I'll shut up now.

JustaFramer · 12-04-2005, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob 53

I think spackle and spackler are jersey terms unless your talking about that little can of stuff they used to sell at the corner hardware store. I havn't heard that term in any other part of the country. Just in case anyone was interested. I'll shut up now.

Yeah around these parts those guys are refered to texture sprayers.

Tom R · 12-04-2005, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob 53

I think spackle and spackler are jersey terms unless your talking about that little can of stuff they used to sell at the corner hardware store. I havn't heard that term in any other part of the country. Just in case anyone was interested. I'll shut up now.

Hmm, - - could be, I guess, - - I know I've always said it no matter where in the country I was, - - but I could have been just talkin' to myself, - - again.

IHI · 12-04-2005, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustaFramer

It's that what the 14" knife is for

Your sheltered are'nt you?? EVERYBODY knows the only knife you need is the 36" knock down knife for all first coat and finish coats

...14" aint seen nothin that small since I took a squirt:p

JustaFramer · 12-04-2005, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHI

Your sheltered are'nt you?? EVERYBODY knows the only knife you need is the 36" knock down knife for all first coat and finish coats

...14" aint seen nothin that small since I took a squirt:p

My drywall experience is limited yes. Wish somebody would of told me about the 36" and flex corner when I did a semi vaulted ceiling. MIght not have been hot mudding for days.

IHI · 12-04-2005, 08:15 PM

Only time we use the BIG knife is for doing knock down...takes waay to long with a standard 12" knife

But there have been times (even though it's not pyhsically possible) that a 36" knife woudl've helped big time blending in some funky stuff...would have to have 3 guys to keep enough pressure down and prevent flex/bending.

**Teetorbilt** · 12-04-2005, 09:09 PM

You guys can keep on blowing your horns. It all sounds good until us cabinet guys get in there and have to blow out the corners and still end up shimming 1/4-1/2" off of the wall to get a straight line. We don't have a 'coverup' option.

IHI · 12-04-2005, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teetorbilt

You guys can keep on blowing your horns. It all sounds good until us cabinet guys get in there and have to blow out the corners and still end up shimming 1/4-1/2" off of the wall to get a straight line. We don't have a 'coverup' option.

Caulk comes in MANY different colors nowadayz

**Teetorbilt** · 12-04-2005, 11:23 PM

No caulk, but trim has to be straight too. Most drywallers hate us because their abilities, or lack thereof, are shown up.

kenvest · 12-05-2005, 10:33 AM

I'll probably get reamed for this ghetto approach at doing corners but what the hey....

on small patch jobs where i only have one or two corners....

i cut my sheetrock to size, using a non-tapered edge to butt into the corner.

i then smooth out the cut edge by planeing that edge on a concrete slab (patio, driveway, sidewalk) to give me a nice smooth cut. (this method also works good if you need to take an 1/8" or a 1/16" off a piece of sheetrock without having to cut it again)

at that point, i install pieces and caulk, yes i said it, caulk the corner joint for a nice look that fits everyones budget and doesn't make a mess. this especially works good doing a seam against a "popcorned" ceiling. i first saw this done in an office i was working in and for the 4 years i was there, you'd never have known the difference.

believe it or not, i've seen entire track homes with caulked corners....

let the flames begin.............

K2 · 12-05-2005, 11:10 AM

I think they can throw you off the internet for saying something like that.

Dale · 12-05-2005, 03:06 PM

I'm not a drywaller, but just wondering how many of you start rocking the walls at the top? I told a friend to do that on his garage/apartment project and he thought I was nuts. I mean you have to lift it up there anyway, just nail a cleat on the wall if you want and you have a wider surface to rest the board on than stacking board on board starting at the floor and end up with a taper edge against the ceiling. Otherwise you end up with the equivelent of a butt seam at the ceiling line?
Thanks
Dale

JustaFramer · 12-05-2005, 03:45 PM

I do alot of times the walls are over 8 feet so I put the filler in the middle.

IHI · 12-05-2005, 03:45 PM

Kenvest: if the caulk has worked for you it sounds like a great easy quick way to get'er done. Might not be the accepted standard, but if it's working for you with no crakcs of call backs, more money/power to ya

Not to sound condesending, but I dont know if I could ever do it personally. Guess I'd rather have a call back to fix something that if homies around "looks" like the remodel/repair was done professionally than to have them stand there while I recaulk it...that could be bad for business names sake since they'd consider you a hack at that point. Again, not flaming you in any way, just my personal view on the subject.

As far as cleaning the edge, I use a hand rasp that Stanley makes-many use this little rasp for gouging out large amounts of bondo, clay, soft wood, etc...but it works EXCELLENT for cleaning the cut edge of the rock. Afew quick passes with a back taper on it and it'll fit every time...tool cost all of $2 or $3 at a home center. This way I minimize the mess left over when having to cut rock in a driveway, folks around here are fussy like that, so a tarp is typically laid down where all the cutting/rasping is going on...same goes for my table and chop saw. Quick and easy clean up with no residue left behind as a reminder anybody was ever there...way it should be IMO.

Dale: when we hang rock it's always ceiling first, then we hang the next section butted tight against the ceiling. The other course is set of the floor, remaining gap is now at waist level and alot easier to work with to blend out. If you keep the filler joint near the floor your constantly on your hands and knees working, if you put it up high your always on ladders/scaffolding...just alot eaiser and effiecent for us to put the filler in the middle of the wall. Grandfather (who got me into this game) thought I was nuts and kept telling me you'll see the seam since it's in the middle of the wall but I pressed on and told him to just wait and see. Since I dont do drywall everyday, I go the extra mile to be sure it comes out near perfect since I dont have the day to day burnout many drywaller have to just want to "get it done". Once I ws done with the wall he was impressed with no humps/bumps onbvious seams, but like any old boy, still said he'd do it his way LOL!!

Josh

Tom R · 12-05-2005, 05:15 PM

I agree, - - ceiling first, - - then butt the wall panels up against it, - - don't screw the ceilings too close to the corners and you'll get straighter lines, - - same with your wall panels.