Priming Celings Before Texture

AARC Drywall

Hey all...
Have a quick question regarding priming....
When you generally texture a celing do you primer first?
Also I have been masking off before primer, and am thinking its better to prime the top angles too, then mask off...that way the tape will stick...
any suggestions


J

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rbsremodeling

i put primer/paint in the texture

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Preacher17

we always prime first then texture.... but no back rolling in our primer...all sprayed

Jeremy B

If you are spraying orange peel you can/should prime first. Hand texture and sprayed knockdown smear around on primed surfaces often times.

Brocktologist

I've never primed before texture. Why would you? Are you thinking the texture will come out looking different on the seam's if you don't prime first?
I've heard of priming first but never understood why.

AARC, instead of masking can't you just scrape off the drywall while the mudd is still wet?

rbsremodeling

I have found the seams are some times visible. We add primer or paint to it so that it helps cover the seams and it gives it a nice color texture.

The white paint also helps when we add glitter to the ceilings to make it show up a bit better

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sutcac

I have done a lot of hand-texturing of all sorts and have found that a light coating of sprayed primer is generally a good idea. Without at least some primer, the moisture can get sucked out of a light hand texture too quickly, leaving it unworkable too soon.

Probably too much primer would be an issue with it not setting up fast enough though too.

And for light hand texturing, better not to count on anything hiding the seams. Better have that taken care of before priming.

Just my two cents.

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Tim0282

You're talking Acoustical texture, aren't you? Not knockdown... I didn't think it would work to add paint to mud for knockdown. But I've never tried, though.

rbsremodeling

Yes acoustical texture

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Jeremy B

We use Fastex fo all of our texturing and we put it on pretty sloppy so we usually don't want any extra working time but I can see how you might want more working time if you are using all purpose or topping mud. However, the last time I primed a surface and then hand textured it I laid on the texture and then went to wipe over it and it smeared around on the slick primed surface. If the primer was very light it might work for me. We also usually do a heavier hand texture with more mud.
As for priming before orange peel, most people around here do it as the joints and the drywall surface do seem to sometimes let the texture set up differently. Whatever works.....

RCPainting

My favorite drywaller sprays light grey tinted primer before spraying texture. He says he can see missed spots better than waiting until I prime to go back. Also prevents flashing. My work looks better!

Here are some more thoughts
/www.painttalk.com/showthread.php?t=2593&highlight=prime+drywall

Brocktologist

Good enough! Now, when the HO wants to clean the wall's is the paint going to be as durable? I guess that is one of the big questions I have to priming first. Also, won't the paint soak into the texture different than it does on the primer and possibly look like flat paint instead of eggshell on the texture?

BTW, I've seen guy's around here who just tint their texture for a more consistent pattern.

MUDBUCKET

We've been spray texturing (popcorn) for 30 years and never prime new drywall before spraying, it would be a total waste of time and material...

CrpntrFrk

We don't prime before texture at all. Most of the texture we do is skipped on or a sante fe texture. So it would be a waist of time.

sutcac

It's funny, it's been a few years since I actually did any of this (but did a lot of it for many years) and after my last post, it all started coming back to me later in the day.

When trying to do a light, hand applied, skip-trowel sort of texture, what would happen is that the mud (yes, all-purpose or finishing compound, but nothing quick-dry or anything) would set up much faster over the taped joints than it would on the bare drywall, which would inherently draw attention then to the area of the taped joints because it would look a little different there.

The light primer seemed to even out, but not prevent, drawing moisture out of the texture mud so it would set up more evenly. But I was just a jack-of-all trades type. I'm sure the full time pros have a better way, especially now.

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Bryce Engstrom: Architect A.I.A. & General Contractor
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AARC Drywall

here we need to spray....we use kaltex for knockdown. our ho want the celings finishd so that they dont have to do anything with it. Some of my tapers do put a bit of primer into the mix..it tends to bite better and be a bit harder. I dont put primer into the mix, i think that if they want to change the celing it would be easier to wet and scrape..plus there is a slight color diffrence and your knockdown celing will be a touch more visable..
J

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AARC Drywall

Yea..i tried that...scrape and sand.....takes less time to mask..i am now priming the top angles and the tape seems to stick better....
knockdown makes a real mess of the walls, and then i have to sand...less sanding is better..thanks for the input though..appriciate it.

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raven2006

Are you guys spraying texture an inch thick or something? With the fine textures that I do, the joints would be clearly visible without a couple good coats of primer.

Preacher17

Same here raven, we use very small, thin, fine texturing so we need to prime....

AARC Drywall

no not an inch thick, but we need only two coats of mud, with one coat of primer...the knockdown is a bit on the thick side, but you still can see the primer through it...its just what people want up here...

J

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