Priming

jjh

Is it necessary to apply a pva primer to the surface before you spray on a splatter texture. I don't want to waist any time but on the bucket it says to prime the surface before you apply a texture to it. I don't see why this is necessary though. If that Is so I would probably then have to apply a pva primer to the surface twice. Once before I texture and then another time after I texture . And then after I apply my primer to the surface twice i would then paint one or two coats of a good quality interior latex paint. Thanks

LennyV-NHSNOLA

The texture does not stick to the paper very well so if you do not prime first, you may have large sections of the texture fall down at some time in the future... usually associated with a large vibration or jumping kids in the house. It could even come down while you are painting the texture since the paint would "wet" the texture and make it less "sticky" to the paper. It will stick to the areas where you used joint compound but the drywall paper is the part that gives you trouble. Now if you skim coated the entire area first, the primer is not necessary.

My drywall finisher always primes everything after he tapes and floats and then uses oblique lighting to look for any areas that need more sanding. Then he applies the texture. You definitely don't want to texture first and then find areas that need sanding.

Richard

Priming before is key. It's an adhesion thing, plus before applying anything to bare rock, primer is necessary. Are you using Behr's PVA? If so, good luck with that one Good thing your covering it right up

and yes...painting is more than a 1 coat deal--a lot of people try to cheat the system, but then the real painters are usually called in afterwards to fix

not so sure about that skim coat comment either...seems like you'd need to prime to me--

just promise me that if you ever install wallpaper that you size the walls first--

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Rich

jjh

I went ahead and emailed the gyes at usg a couple days ago with the same question to see if I'd get a response back. They wrote me back this Priming is not necessary before texturing . DRAT

That is what they emailed me. While you are taping and finishing of the drywall with the joint compound it does seem to adhere ok and priming isn't necessary before this. It just seems that there are mixed opinions on this one.

This is a remodeling job so one part of the wall already has paint on it, flat paint.
I don't know if it is necessary to prime this area AFTER I spray the texture on it because perhaps one or 2 coats of a good quality paint over it would be sufficient.

ProWallGuy

Just do it right and prime the damn thing!

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Wallpaper Hanger St. Louis
Digital Murals Installation

thom

Around here everything is textured. I've never seen anyone prime prior to texture.

Richard

When you're an electrician, you think like an electrician....
when you're a plumber, you think like a plumber...
when you're a painter, you think like a painter.....
when you're in construction........

painter's (because they have to warranty and cover their butts) will do more than necessary sometimes just because it seems logical--

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Rich

jjh

I wasn't sure if the guys at usg would respond. Took sometime for them too. As with everything theres always different opinions. Professionals really shouldn't have different opinions cuase there should be one way that is the "best way" to do it. I will think about it though.

What do you gyes think. Do you think I should prime the already painted wall after I splatter texture it or not. Perhaps one OR 2 coats(if needed for coverage) of a good quality paint will suffice. Thanks as always for your help.

LNG24

I just wanted you to see what happened when someone doesn’t prime. Unfortunately for me, this is what I discovered in my own house. I bought it in May and I noticed the ceiling starting to peel in July. I barely had to touch it and it started to fall off. The only areas it stuck was on the mud.

Now, any ideas on fixing it? I am thinking to skim coat the entire ceiling as I hate sand paint anyway.

Attached Images

  

LennyV-NHSNOLA

I think that is what I said would happen in my first reply... the second post in this thread.

LNG24

Hey Lenny,

Yes you said it, but sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. So just use this as proof if anyone wants to doubt you.

LennyV-NHSNOLA

That's where I messed up. I only used about 200 words in my reply.

Davey

You have a moisture buildup problem not a primer problem. There is moisture migrating through the drywall. I bet if you checked your moisture content of your board it would be high. Looks as if the bath fan is not venting. I'd tear the whole thing down and check the vent and vapour barrier.

LNG24

Davey, What makes you say that? It was very clear that no primer was used. In fact they used a lot of Sand Paint around the house as their contractor was not good at taping or painting.

The vent fan is exhausting to the outside, though I can not say if the prior owners used it or not. I hit the rock with my Mositure Meter and it is fine. Not even a budge in the needle.

cmwacasey

Icut my teeth about 40 years ago on repairing old homes.I am 49.I have never seen a problem with appling texture to raw CLEAN sheetrock,unless there were moisture problems or thin cheap topcoat.

axnjoe

Davey has a good point. Even if you dont agree, check it, twice.
As for fixing the ceiling, peice of cake. for a texture guy.
Out of all these posts no one has inquired about the texture mtl used.
We paint and we dont prime over new dw before applying texture.
I see this happen when ppl use light weight or topping mud for texture.

jjh

You are saying you shouldn't use lightweight for texturing.

First time I had a job texturing I walked into Sherwin Williams and asked the guy there what he recommended for splatter texturing a wall and he handed me a jug of lightweight joint compound. What gives?

Davey

Wow, surprising. It was a wild guess on my part. I have seen stuff similar since we live in an area where we get wide temperature swings which can cause mooisture buildup from ice blocking the vent or frost thawing and loading the ceiling space with water. Actually, come to think of it, if you checked the moisture now it would be fine as the drywall being stripped has allowed all the moisture built up in it to escape.
I know of another commercial job - I mean a BIG job - where propane fires heaters were used to keep the building temperature up when the thermometer dipped to -30C. The heaters loaded the building with so much moisture and the drywall sucked it all up. Shortly after the building was closed in and the heat turned on and ALL of the drywall started to grow mold. It had to be all removed and the building cleaned out. I think they are still in litigation 3 years later. Thats the problem with Cold and drywall and people wanting to stay warm!

theworx

Ok, now to throw in another twist. Has anyone ever added latex primer to their texture mix??? I know of a few guys who do. I guess they think it kills 2 birds with one stone...

dumplin1078

If what you are calling a splatter texture is the same as what I call Knockdown then there is no need to prime first. But if what you are talking about what most people call popcorn then prime first or I will come shoot you. If you use drywall mud for your knockdown which is all that is available here then there is no adhesion problems providing there are no moisture problems already.

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