Popcorn Ceiling Removal / Laminate Ceiling With 3/8?

plazaman

Out of the 2 mentioned, which would be a cheaper method?

I am currently working on a flip houses where owner decided to go with smooth ceilings, (despite being painted already, and walls primed already.

Would it be cheaper to scrape and skim the ceilings or just to laminate it with 3/8s board?

Please bear in mind that these projects, we work on a budget to get houses in sellable conditions where workmanship/quality are not always up to par.

Thanks

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ScipioAfricanus

If the ceiling is in good repair then just scrape, scrape, scrape. Wet the ceiling first if at all possible, I use a hand operated pump water sprayer with warm water. Let that soak for a while, then start scraping. Even if it has been painted the water will work its way through (at least somewhat).

If you apply 3/8 you have pay for material, fine the ceiling joists, tape and mud and sand etc.
Usually I find I need to tape and mud a finish coat under the popcorn to get a smooth ceiling.

Andy.

Mellison

Good question.
Probably to good a question for a Sunday night after a weekend of fun.
I would think scrape and skim.

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Mr. Mike

I just completed a 2800 sq. ceiling last week. Took about 120 man hours to wet, scrape, scrape, patch, and apply 2 coats. What a mess though looks great now.

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AtlRemodeling

While doing a bathroom renovation the HO decided to have us remove the stipple ceiling and go to smooth. Approx. 2000 sf that I turned over to the drywall sub. The HO and I left it up to him to determine the best method.

I'm not sure of his calcs for 3/8" but I know he had about 90 hours to scrape and apply to skim coats so I can only assume it was more cost effective to scrape.

Frankawitz

Mike you need to post the finish photo's, did you float the whole ceiling?

Mr. Mike

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Spot patch only.

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Norrrrrrrrrrrrm

In the past I have sprayed with water, let it soak for 5 minutes and scrape. Generally it only needs one coat of skim if you have skimming skills! No need to waste time and money having to lug drywall around town and buy more mud and tape. Good luck!

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Rx8

does this soaking and scraping method work on all textures? i have a dining room in a house im rehabing and it is all roll texture'd and painted; i've been scraping and skimming them in- maybe ill give this wetting first idea a try?

Frankawitz

Mike nice job looks good

Jonny85

Rx8- In my experience the answer to your question depends on how heavy the rolled, sprayed, or other texture was applied, how old it is and how many coats of paint it's been covered with. You could try to scape with pre-spraying. Ceilings I've worked on that were a non popcorn texture took longer to scrape than popcorn, probably because popcorn comes off if you look at it wrong! You will probably be looking at a lot of scimming. You could try the look of a knock down. Hope that helps.

plazaman

i only ended up doing 1 ceiling, they let it slide. we presoaked and scrape, came off very easy. It was rolled on plaster ceiling. After scraping, we discover the plaster had cracks allover it, maybe the reason why they rolled the mud on the ceiling to begin with. We ended up meshing the entire ceiling with fiberglass mesh and skim. still in the process, should comeout good.

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simplejack

Hey Mike,

Great job on the ceiling! but I was wondering, did you use a ladder? if so dude you gotta get a scaffold!! and maybe a larger sprayer! LOL!! If the tools really made the man, MIKE WOULD STILL BE THE MAN!!

oruscire

Did you think about using a Porter Cable Drywall Sander for this project? The model number is 7800. I have heard of people using them for popcorn removal.

Darren@Partners

All good advice, but no one mentioned the age of the acoustic texture and the possiblity of asbestos content. My sources say that anything prior to '84 is suspect. If its older you should still be okay if you keep it wet (not airborne) and double bag the removed texture. We use a 2 gal. Hudson type sprayer and wall scrapers with extendo poles, never have to get on a bench. Just get enough angle on the handle so not to gouge the **** out of the ceiling.

Forry

Also no one mentioned that if you use 3/8 shrock on a ceiling, it'll have dips and sags like crazy. 1/2" ceiling board (reinforced)

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Mr. Mike

After 1973 Lead not used I think.

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Darren@Partners

Lead in the paint. Asbestos in the acoustic texture. Sorry if unclear.

drycat

I agree with forry, don't use 3/8 drywall over acoustic, because it will way uneven. Far better off to wet and scrape and skim