Plaster Pro's I Need Your Advice!

Drywall1

I have a large restoration/addition project coming up. They just want to fix the cracks and not redo or demo any more than they have to. The architect has spec'ed gypsum plaster base and gypsum plaster finish coat. What do you guys reccomend using for materials? Brand? etc.

I tried talking him into taping and using durabond, but they want to use original techniques.

I am open to any previous expirences you guys have had.

Also what does this sort of thing usually run?

Thanks in advance.

Nate

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plazaman

Cant comment since i dont use plaster, although ive used plaster of paris and joint compound for plaster repairs.



could you comment on your new business venture? I do EIFS and that systems seem alot easier

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Drywall1

The fiber cement board is just a little bit heavier than foam but yeah it's an awesome product. Seems many people have little confidence in EIFS anymore so if they want stucco its an easy sell. We did around 100k sqft last year and this year is looking even better.

Call the number on the web site..that is the owners cell number! Tell Sandy (a man) that Nate with Complete Drywall in Lincoln sent ya.

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Davey

HI Nate

Can you specify what is the original substrate on the project? Is it plaster on wood lath or metal lath or on plaster base gypsum board?
This is important to know if you are doing restoration work. You cannot mix new with old with much sucess. Dont skim coat with durabond , and If you are patching cracks with tape and durabond, they may not be compatible as the durabond is probably a lot harder than the surrounding plaster and may separate after some time.

Plaster work is not just plaster of paris. You have to get the right guaging plaster to match the conditions. I suggest you look around the net a bit for this. If i find a link I will post it for you.

Here is one link http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1561

and another http://www.gypsum.org/download.html

So in the end it depends on the surrounding plaster work.

Dave

Drywall1

Thanks Dave, It is over wood lath built in approx 1890 I will check out the links. Nate

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oldrivers

when i do a job and have to be the one guarunteeing the job i pick the materials and techniqes. No way i'll let someone else dictate to me how to do a job.

Drywall1

That's why I'm asking for advice on my best options.

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daArch

Nate,

First, my trade is wallpaper and I used to paint, so this forum is not my hang-out, but I was looking around the neighborhood.

Second, I've repaired a lot of plaster in my day (buttons, tape, and mud) and have always had a great desire to learn the plastering trade - both in knowledge and skill. Recently I read a great book: Plastering Skills by F. Van Den Branden, & T. L. Hartse
http://www.constructionbook.com/plas...-license-exam/

I would suggest that you borrow it from your local library netwok so that you can understand and converse with the architect about "original techniques"

I can't remember when they started mixing gypsum in with lime to speed up the dry/cure time, but I have a feeling it was after 1890. If he wants "original techniques" that could actually mean NO gypsum.

But since he has spec'ed gypsum, Structolite would be your base coat and Stuctogauge would be the finish coat, mixed with lime putty. You could probably get away with Diamond Veneer or Finish coat. (all USG products) But the skills involved are not like mudding rock. I would suggest getting a plasterer to trowel it smooth into the old work.

But anyway, it's a very informative book and will put on even ground or even a step higher with the architect.

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JCardoza

I've used the USG Diamond Veneer a couple times and don't really recommend it. I didn't know what I was doing so I'm sure that's a large part of it, but it sets up in 90 min. so it is a real pain to work with. The real problem I had was as it dried if it was more than an 1/8" thick it cracks severely... Fortunately the builder loved the cracking look... LOL The reason I tried it was my local Meeks accidentally sent the wrong product and I decided to try it for some custom textures over new drywall. I still have a few bags in my garage...

JCardoza

on a second note we did do another Plaster repair job in downtown Springfield. We put a self adhesive mesh (4' wide rolls) over the whole wall. Sprayed on all purpose troweled it smooth. Sprayed a lightweight mud, troweled it smooth, power sanded the whole thing out and sprayed and troweled the whole thing again... Man that was a pain... Let's think about something more pleasant shall we?

Paul_R

National Gypsum Co. makes Gold Bond Gypsolite Plaster for your basecoat and Kal-Kote Smooth Finish Plaster for the finish. Good thing you don't have to go back to original, unless you have a horse, as the old timers used horse hair as a binder.

I have done a lot of plastering over the years, but with the cracks like you might uncover when removing paper, I liked to put mud and tape over them. If you plaster over old wood lath you need to wet it down, or the base coat will crack, because the wood is sucking the water out of the plaster before the reaction has time to take place.

I just noticed this thread, hope you are successful in your endeavor!

Happy Painting, and Plastering! Paul.