Obtuse Ceiling Joints And Bubbles In Mudd

Spencer

Did my first solo job this past week. Time and material for mudding 2 rooms. (50x20 and 12x8)

Anyway now that I have some experience I have some questions.

When mixing my mudd after getting about 1/2 way through a bucket of all purpose premixed compound I would start to get bubbles and occasionally little junks of dry mudd in the mudd I was trying to put on. I do add water because I like it a little thinner. I was just wondering what you pros do to keep your mudd nice and smooth. I was mixing with a drill and stirrer that may be meant for paint.

On the ceiling \_/ I had obtuse joints. What is the best way to do them? I nearly cried today when I saw they made a corner trowel that rotates from 88-155 degrees, but there isn't much I can do about it now.

Also, I have read on other posts that fiberglass mesh is a no no on butt joints unless you use hot mudd. Is it really that big of a deal. I have seen a pro use it everywhere but corners and he was using all purpose premixed compound.

firemike

Hi Spencer,

The bubbles usually come from mixing the mud to agressivly- to fast a speed on the drill. A couple pros I know only use the manual mixer that looks like a potato masher

As for the angles, I generally use ultraflex NoCoat UltraFlex or Trim-Tex products TrimTex Both do a good job. I don't use corner trowels either, I generally tape and first coat the corners (both sides), let them dry, and then go back and do one side at a time. I use fans on the job so drying time can be cut down to two or three hours in most cases, sometimes can get the 1st and 2nd coats on in 1 day, on a warm, dry summer day on a smaller job, can do three coats with the fans running.

Personally I don't use fiberglass tape, neither do my drywaller friends, they won't touch it. They tell me that there are too many instances of hairline cracks developing with fiberglass. Yet, there are some drywallers that use it exclusively. I always lean towards the tried and true methods of construction, I hate doing warranty work and with my luck, I try to avoid any chance of a call back.

rob3429

Make sure to keep the lid on that bucket when not in it and always keep the contents on the inside of the bucket scraped down so that you dont have thin coats on the inside of the bucket drying then flaking off and falling down into your good mud

Phil

We callem buggers, little pieces of dried up mud in your pan that cause aggrivation. Just do your best to avoid them, keep your pan clean, keep a lid on your bucket (not sealed) but just to protect the mud. I know already painted surfaces cause those little holes. I dont know of any way to avoid them

theworx

Spencer, as far as the bubbles, as mentioned earlier, you might be over mixing the mud or not be applying enough presssure to your knife (another stroke might alleviate the problem). As far as little chunks of dried mud bugging you (in a half used pail). Make sure you keep everything "clean"!! Use water and either a cloth (or a sponge) to make sure your pail is clean of mud on the sides all the way down to the level of the remaining mud. Even a little left on the side will dry and could get mixed in the next day. Make sure your paddle is really clean (wet mud will pull off little bits of dry mud). Lastly, make sure you pour about an inch of water over your remaining mud in the pail (even if you put a lid on it, you'll get a slight skim of partially dried mud by the next day) .

As far as the off angle corners to finish, depends a lot on how tight the boarding is. A good boarder leaving you nice tight joints will allow you to use regular tape (I usually set the tape, coat one side and coat the other second). If the boarders left you a mess to deal with, I typically kill the corner with mud and achieve a nice straight line using metal flex bead. Works great in most instances for me. By the way, I have one of those adjustable corner trowels, and unless you can move your hand eight feet in a perfect straight line, they don't work that great (although has come in handy to load a corner before I set tape or flex)!!

theworx

After doing this work for many years, found out from this forum that a couple drops of dish soap in your mud helps avoid the little bubble problem when going over painted surfaces. Tried it once and seemed to help !!

Drywall1

That or a product called no-pock seems to help. As far as the off angles on the ceiling goes... if you are talking peaks of vaulted ceilings I use a product from trim tex called magic corner. We used to paper tape them for years and they would hold up for a couple of years but then would start cracking. Since switching to this product zero cracks complained of in 5 years

Nate

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theworx

Have seen the flexible trim-tex corners at our wholesaler, but never tried them.. How do "you" apply them (mud, adhesive, staples ???). I use a few trim-tex products that usually get stapled on and then get coated (fast mask etc...). I like trim-tex even though my stubborn partner likes to do everything the old school way !!!

Phil

I was always skeptical about this, but I will test that theory tomorrow and see what happens

andrewtlocke

Spence, first off, congratulations on your first solo flight. I hope it leads to many more.

Obtuse angles - On INSIDE corners/angles I REALLY like Straitflex (except for large dramatic ceilings, then i use the same one I mention next for OUTSIDE corners/angles). Use the MEDIUM grade, NOT original, for most applications. Install it with the numbered side facing into the corner, so the white side faces out, you can finish both sides of the corner at the same time, and you don't need to worry too much about getting the mud right into the apex of the corner because Straitflex primes and paints beautifully. On OUTSIDE corners/anglesI love Ultraflex (can be used on both INSIDE and OUTSIDE corners/angles). Both these products cost more, but are quicker and easier to install, with far superior results. Perfectly straight corners EVERY time. And strong as all get-out.

As far as mesh tape on buts? I use self-adhering mesh on as many flat and butt seams as I can. I also use Durabond or Easysand to undercoat these seams, then I finish with a good quality premix. Haven't had complaints, and the install is fast because the dry time is cut down, and you get to skip the first coat on the flats.

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Drywall1

I use the miracle spray adhesive and spray both the surface of the rock and the magic corner. WWW.trim-tex.com is the web site I belive if not google "drywall art" and you will find them. I buy the 250' rolls and use 3-4 a year

Nate

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BlkBart54

No-Coat is the BOMB, best poduct for bitch angles ever invented. And if the rocking is poor and theres major gaps. No worrys, No-Coat is a major ,great bandaid that will hold. On our bitch angles in the ceilings in great rooms they make us put in expansion joints. Alot of extr work ,but they won,t crack,

theworx

Thanx Nate, I will try it!!!