[d's]

Hey gang,

I'm bidding on a large job where the walls all have holes punched in by tenants, there's water damage, and all the surfaces are textured. The place is FUBARed! The builder is leaning towards laminating over the whole job with 3/8's, but the idea of trying to screw into hidden joists, studs, and corners with no backing left in them is putting me off though.

Any suggestions from past experience? Should I insist on tear it out and replacing instead? How should laminating over old change my normal rate of .50/sqf? Any tips for laminating new onto old?

Any suggestions will help - thanks,

D's

[tcleve4911]

1/4" GWB priced the same SF.
R&R any moldings, casings, cabinetry etc = extra.

[Boycer88]

i would want it ripped down, you will make more money if you price it right, if he chooses to laminate make sure you use glue and rock to rock screws where you cant hit a stud and take into account the headaches from not being able to see the framing

[AARC Drywall]

it depends on the amount of work, most cases its better for you and faster to re and re.

[Brocktologist]

Patch it, T&M.

[d's]

It's a fair sized job - 7000 sqf of board. Patching it would keep me busy until spring

Hey Boycer - never used rock to rock screws, gotta link? Is that the Type G screws. How many are required per sheet - or do you just throw them in whenever you can't find any backing?

Me thinks I won't guarantee the work if he insists on laminating and go T&M to cover my ass on the unknown.

[Boycer88]

Originally Posted by d's

It's a fair sized job - 7000 sqf of board. Patching it would keep me busy until spring

Hey Boycer - never used rock to rock screws, gotta link? Is that the Type G screws. How many are required per sheet - or do you just throw them in whenever you can't find any backing?

Me thinks I won't guarantee the work if he insists on laminating and go T&M to cover my ass on the unknown.

GRABBER® Drywall Laminating Screw - Made In USA

yeah what i would do is punch holes in old rock to find studs and hit the studs where ever you can and when you cant just throw up some glue and some laminating screws, as long as the old rock is tight your new rock will never go anywhere. i think they are type "g" but im not sure off the top of my head, just ask for 1 1/4" laminating screws when you order the rock

[oldrivers]

Originally Posted by Brocktologist

Patch it, T&M.

yep or else your gonna have to deal with trim.

[A+ Texture]

How would you deal with the depth of the outlets and switches. Are there spacers to make up the difference. I saw a job once where they just cut a hole in the drywall and the outlet was behind the wall. Looked pretty ghetto.

[J-Peffer]

I've done it, over lath and plaster walls in rental homes.

There are spacers for outlet covers.

I'd only do it on low income housing, the job is not going to come out as nice and if it does, it's going to cost more because you are going to run into some head aches.

Punch more holes in the wall to find the studs, a fist hole ever 16" should do the trick!!!!

[d's]

Started the job today and it's going well - punching holes every 4 feet or so to find the studs, using 2" screws into wood and TYPE G laminating screws + glue where required, cutting out holes for outlets - ziptool still works but you've got to go deep and collar-less. I'll be adding .05 per sqf for the added PITA factor in the future.

I measured it twice at 5000 sqf and the builder is already insisting that his board count was for 3500.

Thanks all for the tips!

D'S

[Darren@Partners]

That's a huge difference in footage. Is he the builder and the slumlord? Smells fishy. Get paid early and often. Better have some Astroglide on hand.

[d's]

The answer is yes - and I will be squeezing my butt checks together as tightly as possible!

I did get him to sign the quote though - and it already looks like he didn't get enough board so could be a simple farkup on his behalf.

I hate it when you're pricing by the SQF and they challenge by trying to subtract for doors and windows etc.... don't they realize it takes more work to cut that crap out than just boarding over it! Damn straight they do the sneaky buggers!

D's

[Darren@Partners]

I have a floor footage formula to determine wall footage. Is it a total reboard? The formula would give you a leg to stand on if he's trying to bugger you.

[olyteddy]

Originally Posted by A+ Texture

How would you deal with the depth of the outlets and switches. Are there spacers to make up the difference. I saw a job once where they just cut a hole in the drywall and the outlet was behind the wall. Looked pretty ghetto.

I deal with that all the time, correcting drywall/electrician errors from the original construction. I cut pieces of vinyl blind wands to use as spacers. Any kind of stiff tubing works, I just happen to have piles of wands. Nylon wall plates help too, as they won't crack as easily. Because people push on them it is important that outlets be firmly mounted and flush.

[Darren@Partners]

Use "mud rings" or similar product from electrical supply house. Solves entire problem to code.

[Preacher17]

umm you mentioned water damage in your first post..... if you don't rip that out you will have mold issues... Let Mr. HO know that Insurance don't cover mold.....