For The Mud Pros

edjohnson

I have a house the homeowner called and wants me to finish the sheetrock.
I've done a few small patches, but this is a 12x14 ceiling that someone has already hung . There are 1/2 to 3/4 gaps.
Are these gaps going to be a problem?
Does the mesh tape work and give me a fast lesson in applying. This is the "green board" sheetrock if that matters.
Have to go start this in the AM.
I appreciate the help.

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Douglas Johnson
Taskmasters Wood Maintenance
866-443-7692
Log Home Restoration-Stripping-Staining-Chinking-Cob Blasting

precisionbuild

Mix easysand a little thick so that it doesn't sag and prefill with it. Then wait the 20, 45, or 90 minutes and tape like normal. Good luck.

edjohnson

Precision...
Easysand? where do I get that and what ratio mix? Wait to let it dry or just firm up (I'm assuming the latter)?

OH...mised the little thick...

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Douglas Johnson
Taskmasters Wood Maintenance
866-443-7692
Log Home Restoration-Stripping-Staining-Chinking-Cob Blasting

Al Taper

Your best bet is to call a pro. There us a guy on the site here that lives in Eastern NC. I think near New bern.

precisionbuild

Lowes, Home Depot, and your local lumber yards will all have it.

Mix it thicker, but not so thick it sticks together and breaks up.

Sorry about not responding. I was occupied in other sections here and waiting for the Steel Curtain to come down.

Willie T

Frankly, I detest the mesh tape, but some love it. Paper is too easy, really, to mess with mesh.

Just wet your mud a little more than usual, get plenty on the joint, all the way down it, cut a piece of paper tape to fit, wrap it around your hand loosely and dip your hand down in a bucket of water for less than a full second. String the tape out, and pat it up along the joint with your fingers.

Then after wetting your small knife, (keep it wet for this), hold one end of the tape in place with one hand, and drag the knife down the tape kinda solid... ya wanna squish out all the excess mud... Lean the knife over pretty good so you're leading with the handle. You may have to occasionally stretch the tape a little as you're dragging the knife to get any wrinkles out of it, but that's no big deal.

Go back and catch the end you originally held in place, and that's about it for taping joints. The wall edges are, however, going to probably prove to be a bit more interesting for you.

Same thing, basically, but you fold the tape along that crease in the center first. The trick here is to ease that crease well into the corner between the wall and ceiling before you begin dragging the knife. You will want to work maybe only about 6 or 8 inches on one side before you catch up with the other side. Just go slow and easy, and remember to keep pulling the wrinkles out... gently... and you should have no trouble.

BTW, you'll quickly learn whether you want to go right to left, or left to right.

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"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
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Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

ScipioAfricanus

'Green board' on a ceiling is very much against code I believe, too much risk of catastrophic failure. A roof or plumbing leak will cause the water to pool on the other side of the ceiling and come crashing down at once with force when it becomes too heavy for the nailing to carry.

I would change that out.

Andy.

precisionbuild

It's approved for 12" on center.

edjohnson

Thanks everybody. I really apreciate it.
Willie, the way you explain it, I think my biggest concern is deciding to go left or right. You all make it sound so easy. I will find out tomorrow.
I know this..you guys have my respect and you deserve every penny you get.

Future muud SLINGER.

__________________
Douglas Johnson
Taskmasters Wood Maintenance
866-443-7692
Log Home Restoration-Stripping-Staining-Chinking-Cob Blasting

Willie T

Just remember, Doug, that you are not on a time crunch like most finishers. Take it all slow and easy. And each time you leave a section make sure it as clean of ANY extra mud as you can possibly use that knife to scrape it.

Every single dob or smear or ridge of nice soft wet mud you could have smoothed off is going to become a hard piece of crap you are going to have to grind off with sandpaper.

Sanding is a drag. It's messy, and it causes you a ton of extra work. Use that knife, and keep your boards smooth and clean before you move on.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

Rx8

im a big fan of 5minute durabond. mix it fairly thick and move fast, fill all of the gaps in, and when it starts to set up while its sagging a bit, give it a wipe and it will go back up and dry there.

edjohnson

Got it Willie! Slow and Easy...now I can do that!
One thing...The larger cracks, 1/2, 3/4...Do I fill them full of mud and let it set up a bit and then tape??

Rx8 Durabond sounds good, but slow and easy on this one. next time, if there is a next time, I'll get brave

__________________
Douglas Johnson
Taskmasters Wood Maintenance
866-443-7692
Log Home Restoration-Stripping-Staining-Chinking-Cob Blasting

Willie T

Correction, Doug. If you use that 5 minute stuff, then you WILL be on a time crunch for that gap-filling part.

While you're trying to get a handle on this stuff, don't even TOUCH any of that quick mud for the regular finishing. You don't need the extra headache right now.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

Willie T

Go ahead and use the quick mud for filling the cracks, or you will be waiting days to move ahead. I'd try 20 minute stuff, though. And mix it a little stiff.

Yeah, go ahead and let the gap fill dry. Go to lunch or something. Because you want good, smooth, clean board to work on while you're learning. Doesn't hurt if it shrinks a little, and there is a bit of an indentation when you start taping.

If any of it stayed proud (hangs down) sand it smooth before you begin taping.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Bill Everett - St. Petersburg, FL

edjohnson

OK WILLIE,
I'm letting er fly in 10 hrs...much appreciated. If I do good I'll come a braggin If I don't...its your fault
Thanks for all the help!!

__________________
Douglas Johnson
Taskmasters Wood Maintenance
866-443-7692
Log Home Restoration-Stripping-Staining-Chinking-Cob Blasting