MeatBallDryWall

D a y m n! that's longer than I've been alive...by 1 yr LoL

matt grisham

almost any time you glue in commercial work is vinyl cover sheet rock but you have to pree bow your sheet, Ware the middle touches wen you screw the top and bottom.u.s.g. hand book says screw top first thin bow bottom in

AARC Drywall

Rather than being argumentative, try it.... yes we are gluing while you are hanging....however once we glue and shoot the required screws, we dont go back and add screws to the field. We have little to none, for screw pops, and when finishing it is a hell of a lot faster and cleaner. We will always glue, and there has been times we ran out of glue, and had to do things the OLD fashion way, and it takes more time in the end, which means more money that you spend on labor, and materials, and the OLD fashion way is not the way to do it anymore. Simply think of this.... When the glue dries how much bond are you getting from the sheet to the studs. How much bond are you getting from the 2 to 3 in the field by doing things the old ways. Also when framers put down the T&G flooring to the joists, they glue right....why????

Jay

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AARC Drywall

LOL me toooo.... wow old.

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Muddauber

You kids are funny!

I also started in the trade in 1973 right out of high school. I'll be 55 in March.

Muddauber

Oh, I forgot to say that I would NEVER hang a board without glue!

stp57

You're not in Kansas anymore Toto.
Steve

AARC Drywall

When you get into rated assemblies (every apartment, hotel room, most condos, etc), you won't find an NFPA, Underwriters (UL) or Gypsum Association (Fire Resistance Design Manual) assembly that allows for such liberal fastener spacing. Even when adhesive is allowed, the fastener spacing still never exceeds 12" o/c.

Ok lol this is a great post.....

For all you non gluers out there or people who think they know, or better yet the people who nailed the field, this is for you all.

As the above quote says "the fastener spacing still never exceeds 12" o/c."
For some codes this is a factor, but keep this in mind, when you are talking to the GC and Engeniers. Screws are the only faseners that go through the paper face to anchor the board to the studs. GLUE ANCHORS FROM THE BACKSIDE, AND THEREFORE DOES NOT REQUIRE SCREWS AT ALL TO HOLD THE DRYWALL TO THE STUDS, AS PER MANUFACTURES REQUIREMENTS.
Glue although is a slower method as per-say to tack and go. It allows the drywall to be held to the studs by more points of contacts. The key here is point of contact to the studs.
Also consider this. In California for example earthquakes are a factor now days. Glue bonds the sheet to the studs and holds the wall way better than the screws ever will when the shaker comes. If you nieve people cant see this, there is no hope for you. Sorry to offend, but its time to pull you head out of where ever it is, and get with the times.
Florida gets twisters, and no glue in the world is going to help there....sorry.
Here in canada we get freeze thaw -40 C for weeks at a time. The homes shift and move slightly, causing screw pops....now why is it that we are getting less screw pops now that we have switched to glue.....is it because we have less screws.....lets count them.....123....oh that s right we only put 1 in the field ever second or third stud...mmm mmm less fixing in the long run.....also glue when its cured is 100000 times stronger bond over the course of the wall as compared to screws.
Can anyone answer me this question...... Why do framers glue the floor joists before the install the 5/8" t&G plywood.....? If you can answer this question you will have the answer to why glue over screws.

I guess its true...........You cant teach a old dog new tricks....even when money is involved.....

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d's

Just to complicate matters... let's add foam to the list.

I tried a can of EnerBond DW drywall foam adhesive today...
http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiteratu...0380047b57.pdf

Gotta say it was easier to apply than tubes of glue - no pumping the trigger and 1 can lasts almost all day. The foam expands so any framing defects are evened out. Because the foam is initially so soft the board is very tight to the framing after screwing the perimeter. I seriously doubt you'd have to screw the field at all with this stuff. I conducted a test with a piece of drywall 10" wide foamed to a 2x4 scrap, let dry, and damned if I could separate the two - the board broke before it separated.

I could see how this could pose a problem if anyone did want to remodel as the framing would have to be removed along with the board but that's what would happen anyway.

D'S

BattleRidge

People also nail off the the subfloor to joist tho. Im pretty sure the glue is more for sound and solidity then sheer. With that said I think both methods work well. I could probably screw as fast as you glue though.

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Big Shoe

Metal studs...Glue........What now? Wood framed interior walls are a thing of the past here. The last crew I knew of gave it up several years ago.

AARC Drywall

Oh there is no doubt, I can screw a wall faster once the sheet is on faster than glueing.

I am going to test this today, but I am perty sure that its going to be close as to timewise.

As for nailing joists, and sound, you are exactly right.....they want to apply glue so that it is tight to the joists everywhere in order to stop movement, which in return stops squeeks. And as for sheer strength, think about this drywall on a wall being held in the middle with screws can be ripped off way easier than drywall with glue and few screws.

J

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Profit is NOT a dirty word....Cheap is....

AARC Drywall

There is a glue that is ment for steal studs....I will have a look when i get a chance. But it is done.

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Profit is NOT a dirty word....Cheap is....

MacRoadie

All excellent points...if you live in Canada. If you live in the States (all 50, not just California), there are no codes that I am aware of that allow glue in rated assemblies. All 50 states use either the IRC or some adopted version (California and Florida for example).

You wallies can argue all day as to which is better, which is faster/bonds better/results in fewer nail pops. I'll leave that to you.

For a GC standpoint, at the end of that day the stuff has to be nailed to establish a rated assembly. End of story.

Not quite sure what was funny about my post though.

bwalley

Is that glue designed only for studs stolen off of a jobsite?

AARC Drywall

I conducted a test yesterday, and it is faster to glue the wall, rather than the old way. by 15.6 seconds per 10' wall. Now this is for a completed wall not just one sheet, 8' high.

MacRodie The whole post is a riot. Not your comments. You bring up excellent points with regards to rated walls, but in normal residential const. we do not get into rated walls. Here anyways.

Bwalley Yea......no one said that i won the noble prize for spelling....thanks for pointing that out. lol

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Tony M

What sort of 'glue' are you guys using? Is it a Gripfill type of gunnable mastic, that polyeurethane quick drying wood glue that foams a little as it cures, or something else? We have an alleged 5 minute cure minimal expanding foam here which keeps on expanding for 10 mins or so, so unless you put several screws in the field, the wall would be a bit wavy.

MeatBallDryWall

Umm, has anyone ever pulled off the thick paper backing off the drywall b4? It will come off & it seems to me that's all the "glue" is bonded to & in a fire situation it will Fail. So 's Over. I also did a small remodel job & the rock was glued & screwed about every other stud (1 screw in the field). Several studs with no screws wasn't touching the glue or rock due to bowing lumber. I could see the benefit if you glue & screw with more fasteners but 1 screw on every 3rd stud? That means it's held @ 32-48 OC?

ARI001

As far as demo is concerned I could care less if it glued or not as I figure that it will be glued when bidding. I have yet to do a demo where the drywall was not glued. When I do hang drywall I glue and screw everything. Screws 6 to 8 inches on the edges and 12 inches in the field. I prefer screws to nails (with the exception of corner bead) as it cuts the amount of fasteners necessary by half. I have had minimal pops using this method. I avoid fastening into structural elements (headers) when ever possible which will reduce the amount of settling cracks greatly. I also avoid gluing within 6 inches of the top plate for the same reason. Just my two cents.

On the foam glue I have seen that used but it has a tendency to push the drywall away from the joists or trusses on ceilings causing a wave effect even with 5/8" rock.

Rio

I think this is a good point. The glue is attached to the paper and is not bonded to the front at all versus a screw. Where we work everything is inspected and has to be a rated assembly so it's always screwed per the current CBC (IBC with California peculiarities).

As to a plywood floor being glued, yes always, and it's also screwed per the current code requirements (glued, screwed, and tattooed) ; Actually we shoot ours with coated screwnails. This does help establish a better diaphragm and also really helps eliminate any squeaky floor issues which is not an issue with gyp. board as no one walks on it unless they're the fly or uncle Martin................................