Finishing Butt Joints

Phil

Ive seen a few different methods for finishing butt joints. I usually coat the left side once, the right side once, then one big one right down the middle for the finish coat. Just curious what other methods finishers here might be using

mdshunk

No matter the technique, always use a product called "BCS" on butt joints.

jmic

Phil,
It seems what you're doing then just adds up to 2 coats. I'll never call myself a taper but from the decades of seeing it done and doing some on my own I'de start out by using a 6" knife to apply the mud and tape, then next coat use a 8" - 10" convex trowel and then for the 3rd coat use a 12" convex trowel. It really is an art form to watch a professional taper do his thing, they make it look so dam easy! Lets give them a hand!
Joe

Mike Finley

Left side/right side????

Mesh tape down the seam. One coat down the seam, then another coat down the seam wider than the first, then a final coat wider than the first 2.

Tom R

This is the way I do it, too, - - keeps the center from being too high.

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Eric K

Remember to use yer set 45 on them, premix is known to crack on the mesh.

Mike Finley

Another reason I never use drying compounds anymore, all setting compounds. But I'm only doing remodeling too.

Drywall1

For wall butt's or smooth lid I tape the butt joint then first skim I go two ten inch knifes' wide when putting the mud on then I run down the middle getting very close to the tape underneath. Then I feather each side. The feathering leaves a edge that must be knocked down between coats. 2nd skim I use my 10" skimmer box and again go down each side of the butt joint and follow with a 10" knife making sure there are no pock marks, edges etc. Third skim I do like all other smooth wall joints, I roll on the with a roller and pull it tight with a 12" knife. For a textured ceiling buttjoint (mostly stomp or double crows foot brush texture) we run 1st skimmer box down the middle wide open and if tape shows thru will add a little more mud, then 2nd skimmer box is ran down each side and right behind that with a 10" knife to knock down pockmarks.

Sorry for the long post.. ..I'm a little psycho about buttjoints..but this is the best method I know for finishing invisible buttjoints....I've tried many other ways. Just my .02

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Mike Finley

Hey Drywall1 do you use Trimtex products?

Teetorbilt

A few years ago I was on another site and they were discussing a tool the would indent cuts in the same manner as the factory edges. I had the site until the HD crashed. Anyone else familiar with this tool?

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Drywall1

Hey Mike Finley, I use trim tex all the time. PM sent!

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damudman

butttaper.com
I have not used it
i-boards.com/bnp/wc/
Teetor this might be the site

Dale

...or don't land on a framing member and use or make your own backerboards like "Rocksplicer" or "Butthangers".

Glasshousebltr

In the business, the common architectural term for a finished butt joint is............ a roach.

Bob

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drywaller74

from my experience mesh tape on butt joints with or without setting compound is not a good idea. . In fact it is recomended that thin-coat plasterers use fast-set and paper tape on their butt joints. c
robert

Tom R

I agree, - - IMO, if mesh-tape is used at all, - - it should only be on the tapers, - - and only on the walls (not ceilings).

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Teetorbilt

damudman, that may be the tool that was being discussed and thanks for the site.

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travus

I go a little nuts on butt joints as well, but they never show either. We stripe the joint on each side with a 8" or 10" box. (I actually use an 8" coater by aplatech because it leaves a bigger hump.) Then we come back and strpie the middle of the first two stripes (right over the tape) and stripe each side (three total stripes). Lastly I skim them with a 16" cement trowel. They never show.

travus

I have also been playing around with "butthangers". They are too expensive to use so I have been making my own. They work awsome and the butt joint can be ran with a box just like the tapered joint.

Dale

How much cheaper is it to make them? You have to have the osb or ply and rip some 6-8" strips and then either rip some 3/16 strips for the edges or buy stock and then the m/hr time to do that and put it together.