Durabond Or Mud?????

 
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:15 AM   #21
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Quote:
Originally Posted by paulie View Post
I don't know what you're saying, the 20 will set faster with hot water/dirty?
Yes, hot water makes them all
(5,20,45,90) go faster, and so does
using "clean-up" water rather than
clean water.
It's a chemical thing from the
mud residue in the water.
Setting compounds harden from
chemical action, like concrete,
rather than drying, like ready mix mud.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:19 AM   #22
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Hot mud swells over time? I've never heard that. Thats almost all I use.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:23 AM   #23
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Yeah that was my next question, swelling over time? Hmmm.

Yes I'm aware it's a chemical reaction but was not sure what speed up the reaction time.

Last edited by Paulie; 02-28-2009 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:39 AM   #24
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


For small patch jobs I allways use 5 and 20 over mesh tape. The only sanding I do is to blend in the edge with current texture. Never heard of soap and never been called back because of swelling. Denver is a dry climate though, could this be do to where you live and humidity levels or is the swelling typical of hot mud.
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:44 AM   #25
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I'm not familiar with hot mud swelling over time?
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Old 02-28-2009, 11:46 AM   #26
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I don't believe it "swells over time,"
I think regular DuraBond is so hard
it just never got sanded down.
That's what make EasySand so cool!
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:15 PM   #27
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I forgot to tell the thread starter I use brown bag if it is a plaster patch to fill the inevitable large gaps between the old plaster and new drywall before mesh tape and 20.

But my thought is if you can decrease the set time why buy 5. You will always have 5 if you want in the 20 bag, but not visa versa.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:17 PM   #28
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I'm by far an amateur drywaller, I've only done it for myself and favors for family. Even I know about soap in the mud, everything goes on so much smoother. No air bubbles.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:22 PM   #29
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


When I think of great inventions to make my job easier I would always list

Nail guns
Cordless tools
Sandable quick setting joint compound

Mixed feelings advances in tools

Computers and Software
Cell phone

Can live without

UBC interpretations
Government regs
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:29 PM   #30
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


OK takeing it a step further is there must be a substace or chemical to retard the set time like sugar is to concrete. Any chemists in the audiance?
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:37 PM   #31
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


None I know of but you can also get 210 minute set, probably other setting times that are longer too.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:44 PM   #32
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Quote:
Originally Posted by paulie View Post
OK takeing it a step further is there must be a substace or chemical to retard the set time like sugar is to concrete. Any chemists in the audiance?
Ice water?
I know when using really cold
well water it's slower than normal.
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:07 PM   #33
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


yeah I know you can buy 190, 210... but if you only had 20 on hand and didn't want to trek back to the store for 90 or 5 to add a retarder or accelerator to change set time.
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:46 PM   #34
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


yes you can add regular light mud to quickset to make it go off slower ,, how much though i havent really played with it much but if i have a bucket of mud that is to wet sloppy i will add quickset to it to thicken it up it also shrinks less . actually this is the best 2nd coat mud that ive everr used light mud mixed with hot mud. the powder will help soak up the moisture so there is less evaporation less shrinkage.
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Old 02-28-2009, 02:08 PM   #35
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I heard of using dishsoap once a few years ago. This is the first time since.
Never tried it, perhaps I will if I remember.
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Old 02-28-2009, 02:44 PM   #36
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Quote:
Originally Posted by ronm1974 View Post
Im wondering.........What does the dishsoapm do?
youll have to ask the indians that one.
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Old 02-28-2009, 02:50 PM   #37
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I think the post mean't to say dishsoap. I put it in final coat mud to get rid of airbubbles.

I just read back through the thread, I never heard off wetting the paper tape first that a post from Neolithic. Any drywall contractors hear of this?
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Old 02-28-2009, 03:06 PM   #38
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


Quote:
Originally Posted by paulie View Post
I think the post mean't to say dishsoap. I put it in final coat mud to get rid of airbubbles.

I just read back through the thread, I never heard off wetting the paper tape first that a post from Neolithic. Any drywall contractors hear of this?
Thanks for the bump.
The first guy who showed me
Durabond told me to dampen it
so that it wouldn't bubble up.
Always been hesitant to experiment....
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:23 PM   #39
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


On the swelling over time comment I made -- I have seen in the past when we've completed a small job (finishing through sanding) in a single day, and used hot mud for a sanded slick surface, that med swells afterward. It looks perfect when we are done. It looks perfect when painted. But days or weeks later, some or all (but mostly taper joints) flash or telegraph. I avoid it ubless the walls texture too. If it's a room add or remodel, I try to sell a total texture on the basis of not stirring the dust. Maybe I'm the only one seeing this problem but most of my contacts here agree. And these swollen joints are FLAT when we leave them and humped when the problem occurs. It is ever so slight but it really does show later.

PS: I have seen & used accelerator but never heard of a retarder

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Old 03-01-2009, 08:54 AM   #40
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Re: Durabond Or Mud?????


I have used Durabond for 25 years now, I use it as a base coat for any water damage I am fixing, the thing with Durabond is it's Harder then Plaster, the chemicals in it take any moisture out of the mud, which if you have used it for any lenght of time you will know that your fingers and hands are dry and if your like me can sand drywall mud without sandpaper
If your appling it over a painted surfaces it will take longer to dry. and then you have the chance of the finish paint bubbling the mud off the wall or ceiling, I don't care for adding to it, I have used 20 Durabond to skim coat a livingroom(30'x20'x10') and diningroom(20'x15'x10') and stairway walls that had been combed finished, we removed any loose plaster from the wood lath, then renailed wood lath with ring shank underlayment nails. we wet the lath using a horse hair brush, then mixed 20 by the pan, we would hand mix every pan so it was the consistency of soft serve ice cream.. With the base coat over the lath we would mix it thicker more on the dryer side, then float another coat over the base coat. then we would build these spots up even with the plaster, then we would paper tape cracks and edges of repairs, then we put a base coat over the wall area from the top of the 10" baseboards to the ceiling, now after that we did another coat of 20 and we would spray mist it and trowel it out, then we let it dry over night, came in shaved any lines and high spots with 6" knifes, then we pole sanded with 80 grit, walls came out like smooth plaster. As for the soap in the mud, I have use it and all it did was make it smell good, Lemon
But if your getting bubbles its cause your mixing the crap out of the mud, and when you apply it your speed your pulling it will bring bubbles, take a trowel and see how fast you can pull it across the wall then stand back and watch the Larence Welk Show, bubbles will form
Then the tape issue if you get bubbles in your paper tape it's cause your mud is drying out or setting up, Cause that's what it do!
when taping with paper, mix your mud on the creamy side not soupy, put a good amount on the seam your doing, then press tape into it, I always hand tape, so then I take my 6" knife to hold the end of the tape and then take my other 6" knife and push it slow but tight, then use the extra mud and pull it over the tape 12" wide, as for mesh tape many times I've seen cracks that have been repaired before, the person used mesh tape which cracked and so you have a crack with checker board look to it. but if you like it use it, allot of guys like it cause it has adhesive and sticks to the wall. I can fix it.
Oh the other thing with Durabond, I have used it to make crown moulding repairs, when you use plaster to make repairs it will shrink, like if your repairing holes that have been cut into a wall or ceiling, were if you use Durabond it doesn't shrink up.
Then as for Easysand over Brown bag, the Easysand will not stand up to a reacurring water leak, where Brown bag Durabond will.
I had a customer call me for a repair job, and it was a roof leak, I asked if the roof had been repaired, which I was told their Grandson had made the repairs, I always recommend people use a Roofer, not their family and friends, unless they are Roofers.
But I made the repair well couple weeks went by and I get a call telling me my repair was coming apart, well the roof had leaked again, well when I went to check it out all the plaster around my repair was coming down, But the Durabond was still hard as rock, water didn't faze it. Well they asked if I was going to fix it? I said sure after they had the roof repaired by a Real Roofer not their Grandson. after they got the roof fixed they couldn't afford to have the ceiling done.
Like they say "penny wise, pound foolish"


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