Drywall Equipment & Tips (Needed)

NJPainter

I'm wondering what experienced drywallers would recommend with regards to:

1. Rocking and Finishing Attics or 2nd Floors of Cape Cod's w/ off angles...


2. Scaffolding and or set-ups for 8-10 ft. ceilings

I do plenty of drywall install and repair but on larger jobs ( two rooms +, or guts) I'd like to speed up the process. I use 45/90 but want to move away from ladders and the countless movements necessary from install to the final sand.

Any and all comments are appreciated...

Tim0282

If you don't use stilts a baker is the next best. 6' long and 28" wide. Prefill with 45 or 90 and tape all off angles with No Coat or Strait Flex brand tape. Both have a variety of widths to meet the situation. Sometimes the four and a half inch wide is great for the real bad hanging job. Wink, wink...

Donny-MM

You need to make sure that stilts are legal in your area. If you get caught wearing stilts in some places you and your company get fined for it. They are considered too unsafe for the workplace in my province.

Tmrrptr

Gosh, best way to speed up the drywall process is to inspect for proper backing, and hang those sheets without leaving the gaps you mentioned!

It takes more time to tape and finish than hang, and FAR more to do so when the hanging was bad.

NJPainter

Without going at length, I was trying to say that we are efficient rockers and finishers on straight runs, but the Attic's in older homes (cape cod's or otherwise) have been a sore spot. The last one we did was three years ago.

The center run of the ceiling is +- 50" wide. We tried centering it to create a straight angle when the sidewalls were attached; it was a dumb idea.

I'm presuming that a lack of framing skills is the problem here.

Problem was that the rest of the house wasn't ready for the straight runs of rock yet and we were stuck having to do this room first. I had to make a long HD run so the guys were left to do what they could.

Ultimately, it's my fault but I know by tomorrow morning I'm gonna want to take another approach and will likely rip off the center run of rock that's been installed.

Would Firring out the joists and running the rock parallel do the trick?

(I haven't seen 4" inch tape before, but I've got two types of Straight-Flex "medium" and "original")

Ok, should I order the baker through Sherwin-Williams or just get one at Home Depot? How much? Buy Used?

Also, I don't use a drywall router, should I?

Tim0282

The 4 1/2" tape is great for some splay angles, inside and out. It is made by No Coat. Good stuff. Check the prices on the scaffolding. I bet HD would be quite a bit less. Or if you have a scaffold supplier in the area, you might be able to find used. I paid 700. for the first one I bought 15 yrs ago and 250. for the one I bought a couple yrs ago. They have come down a lot and just as good. I have used hat channel on real bad angles like you're talking to straighten them. It is a metal channel use in sound control in commercial work. You just have to fir down the whole area to make it work. If you can get your hands on the No Coat, you'll be amazed how stright you can make a bad angle.

BattleRidge

A router is very important and would make your life easier. I always use bakers for hanging 2 bakers work wonders

NJPainter

I could see how it would help... The best I've got now is a scaffold ladder that takes a 2X8...It Works, but is hacky.

Rotozip or dewalt? TO be honest I've never even used a router...been using jab saws and utility knives forever.

NJPainter

$250 ain't bad at all...

No Coat-1.Found at HD?
2.Requires Spray Adhesive? (if so, which one)
I'm gonna google hat channel, but can I find that at HD also?

Thanks!!!

fr8train

I use the No-Coat tape on a regular basis, and we apply it with mud, just wipe it very well, and make sure that the edges of the tape where there is no plastic reinforcement is wiped so that it doesn't bulge out because of excess mud.
It's very easy to use, and once you start using it you will figure it out very quickly

Sir Mixalot

You better get some of these.




Really though, it's going to take a little practice. But, once you dial it in you can fly.

kgphoto

IF there is a question about the framing, you should order a roll of the metal X-Crack by Strait-Flex. It will absorb movement and straighten framing to give you straight non cracking angles. Then finish with Mid Flex or 325.

Since you are pulling down the drywall, this is the direction I would go.

NJPainter

Will check it out...Thx!

BUTCHERMAN

WOW where to begin.1) Stilts are leagal in NJ as long as you are not union and even then that's up to the rep.2) You can use sheetrock benches and planks,they cover more ground than the baker.3) If you use the router(and i would) if the power outlets are not hooked up and the power is off mark the center of the box,then put the router in go to the edge of the box,then jump the edge lightly and go counter-clockwise the bit will hug the box and you should'nt have a problem. If you go clockwise you'll be all over the place. 4) Heavy fills i would back with mesh,pack with EZ sand, and then tape and fill. 5) It sounds like a room that was never meant to be rocked (it was framed for the outside look) meaning the crowns are on the inside. Depending on how bad it is i recomend firing and titebond heavy duty construction adhesive (not drywall adhesive). Use the glue as a shock absorber for off beams to fill gaps. 6) Also look into vinel corners from trim tex. The corners will need to be adjusted after the rock is up. Trim tex makes products you can adjust that won't crack. Just when you paint the vinel center use semi-gloss primer or the paint will peel and look like a crack. This can be done.7) If you use the router alot go with dewalt if not roto zip is fine. I recomend a heavy bit if you have no experience you will probally break the small bits on each box. By the way i work in essex and bergan county where are you from?