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#1 |
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Pro
Trade: painter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 192
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Drywall Direction
I built a 22 x 26 garage with 9ft walls. I have always put sheetrock up on walls vertically and running with the rafters. Now I am being told that you get less bow if you lay the sheetrock on its side and stack it and run the ceiling sheetrock across the rafters. I didn't like laying it down because for one reason I would have to cut a one foot wide strip because of the 9ft ceilings and if I did I would think that I would want to have it at the bottom in case it got wet and want to replace it. While I am at it what about insulation in the attic? I used to think that you used unfaced fiberglass. Can you use faced batts and staple to the rafters before the sheetrock goes up?
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: manager of excavation division
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: danbury,ct.
Posts: 3,660
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Re: Drywall Direction
Get 54" wide sheets made for working with 9' ceiling hieghts
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: Home Improvement
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 302
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Re: Drywall Direction
1 plus to going horizontal is not having to mud to much at the 9' height.
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#4 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall Direction
I like running them vertical myself, - - but most drywallers will tell you they prefer horizontal, - - easier to spackle across then up and down.
I prefer vertical because it provides a flatter wall overall. Running the sheets horizontal is also 'friendlier' to sloppy framing than running them vertical. I do all phases myself so bad framing doesn't become an issue. Drywallers will claim that vertical seams on walls will crack more. I've never had a problem with that, - - or for that matter, ever even witnessed anyone else having a problem with that. They'll also claim drywall's 'grain-lines' make it stronger running perpendicular to framing. Although this is true, I say it's not on the walls to 'strengthen' them, - - it's only job is to provide a flat wall surface and to hold itself up, - - that being said, - - the grain-line direction running perpendicular to the framing IS important on ceilings, - - not so much for strength but for 'sagging' issues. These diversionary reasons, IMO, - - side-step the real issue which goes back to what I first said, - - they PREFER to spackle horizontal. Whether you choose to go horizontal or vertical, - - you can get drywall either wider or longer to accomodate your needs. OK, you drywallers out there - - BRING IT ON!!
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall Direction
Oh yeah, if the garage is heated use faced batts stapled to the rafters, - - otherwise use unfaced, - - you can hold them up with 'insulation wire-supports', then lay up your rock.
P.S. Your drywall should be enough 'above' floor level so it can't get wet. Cover the gap with PVC trim (or anything else that won't wick up water).
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http://www.tr-built.com Last edited by Tom R; 02-05-2006 at 11:03 PM. |
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#6 |
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New Guy
Trade: Drywall and Painting contractor
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 17
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Re: Drywall Direction
Running horizontal is the only right way to go. Increases strength of building like a big dog. Standing up is for lazy ,uninformed wannabe,s.
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#7 |
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Professional Remodeler
Trade: Remodeling Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 2,289
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Re: Drywall Direction
I prefer horizontal, makes hanging and taping much faster and easier,as I generally work alone. My suppliers only stock 5/8" in 54" wide (mostly used in commercial work), but 1/2" can be special ordered.
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#8 | |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
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#9 | |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
My method for doing ceilings is post #8 in this thread www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=2591 Like I say, although I've done it plenty both ways, - - I prefer vertical, - - but it does depend somewhat on other factors, - - and I realize most guys prefer to do it horizontal.
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http://www.tr-built.com Last edited by Tom R; 02-08-2006 at 06:02 PM. |
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#10 | |
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Pro
Trade: manager of excavation division
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: danbury,ct.
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
Have you ever tried using a sheetrock lift for ceilings? I just recently bought one for when I hang my addition, look forward to trying it out.
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___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________ Joe |
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#11 | |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
Seriously, though, - - you won't be sorry you got the lift. Last time I used one was about 15 years ago, - - what kind did you get and how much did it run you??
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#12 | |
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Pro
Trade: manager of excavation division
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: danbury,ct.
Posts: 3,660
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
at me I've seen them in Northern for like around $500 then 1 night I was going through E-Bay and saw them for like around $200 and I got the extention to go to 15' think I ended up paying around $240 , Still in the box, still don't need it for about 4 mos. so if ya need one drive up and get it.
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___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________ Joe |
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#13 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall Direction
Hmm, - - sounds a little cheaper than I woulda' thought, - - just make sure ya wear your best hardhat!!
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#14 | |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
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http://www.tr-built.com Last edited by Tom R; 02-09-2006 at 12:01 AM. |
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#15 | |
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Professional Remodeler
Trade: Remodeling Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 2,289
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Re: Drywall DirectionQuote:
I like the lifts, used them often, but if I am only hanging 6 or 8 sheets in the typical room, lifts are more work than hanging the drywall - hauling it in, setting it up, pushing it around, using it, taking it apart and hauling it back to the truck, and taking it back, and my drywall wholesaler lets me use one for nothing if I want to. For 16 footers or if I am doing more than 6 or 8 sheets or a high ceiling, I will use a lift, but otherwise just use the deadmen.
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#16 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall Direction
I agree, Mike, - - the lifts are cumbersome to haul around.
Yeah, give the method a try and see if you like it, works good for me, been usin' it for years.
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#17 |
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Member
Trade: I am a residential builder.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 32
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Re: Drywall Direction
Tom R, not a bad way for ceilings, but for 8's I was brought up to put the damn thing on your head crawl up the horses and screw it with one hand and holding it with your other hand and head (by the way, don't do this with a hat that has that little button on top!
). My dad hung for 30 some yrs and this is why his knees and shoulders ate shot (now at 76 yrs old). So all I can say is thank the drywalling god fot the lift. Bringing it in and setting it up will be a big pay off later in life. Also, just a question, "spackling", is that what they call taping and finishing in your part of this world? I thought that was for cracks in plaster or a litlle hole here and there. |
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#18 |
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Member
Trade: I am a residential builder.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 32
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Re: Drywall Direction
Oh I forgot, IMO horizontal with "stretch 54" is the way to go for 9' walls.
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#19 |
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Pro
Trade: Carpenter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,484
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Re: Drywall Direction
Hey redwing, - - yeah, I'm guilty, - - I call it spackling, - - alright ya got me on a lingo technicality, - - anyways, I don't disagree on a lift being a great tool, - - but I just prefer keepin' it light, simple, and inexpensive with my cleat method.
Besides, - - using something somebody else thought of doesn't allow me much braggin' room!!
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#20 |
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carpenter and builder
Trade: carpenter and builder
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 204
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Re: Drywall Direction
Over here the biggest sheets we get are 8'x4' and we call the job of fixing them "tacking". I used to have an Irish tacker called Tim who always worked alone and did all the lifting by hand, resting the sheets on his head, lining uo the edge and then nailing up. The usual method would be to fix the board vertically to studwork and perpendicular to ceiling joists. I dont think i could imagine a 12' sheet on my head !
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