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#1 |
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Golf Guy
Trade: Locksmith & Home Improvements
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Middletown, Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
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Don't Remove The Trim!!!
I am in the process of finishing a drywall job in an old house, built in the 50's. Walls and ceilings are so.........o!!!! bad, drywall needed shimmed and was told not to remove the trim, "just butt it to the doors, windows and base. I forgot to mention, don't gut the rooms, go over the existing walls. This job has been interesting, however, I need some recommendations on finishing the drywall around the trim. Should I tape everywhere the moldings and drywall meet? This house is being flipped so quality isn't the issue but pride in doing it right is! I would appreciate any input and I will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks Pat |
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: Siding, Windows, Seamless Gutters, Metal Roofing
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,761
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!! |
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#3 |
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Pro
Trade: Drywall Taper
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sherwood Park Alberta
Posts: 257
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
I would tape around where everything meets, but I would also charge high for it. Sounds like they wouldn't pay for it though. Good luck.
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#4 |
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Professional Remodeler
Trade: Remodeling Contractor
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 2,289
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
If you can cut it tight enough, you can caulk the joints, but as Patrick already mentioned, quality on this project is already in way far back in the back seat.
If the gaps are too big, hot mud might be the answer as it dries quick and doesn't shrink, and should look good long enough to dump, ooops, I'm sorry, I mean sell the place.
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-Mike- Falcon Contracting Residential - Commercial
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#5 |
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Brocktologist llc.
Trade: drywall
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 392
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
Yup, cut the loose paper with razor knife on an angle where the trim is like you do with your but joints. Prefill, paper tape and coat. PITA
BTW, you can fold your paper like you would for an angle and only apply half of the paper leaving the other end flapping so you can coat without getting mud on your trim. Cut off loose end when you are finished. I do this around garage door instead of getting mud on the 2by4's.
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#6 |
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Thom
Trade: General Contractor/Homebuilder
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 3,197
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
If the gap at the trim is large enough, install "J" metal, finish then caulk to the jambs.
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#7 | |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!Quote:
Don't even want to imagine doing anything this FUBARed. Hope it pays some bills.
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Put your location in your profile! (Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions) |
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#8 |
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Pro
Trade: GC/ Interior & Exterior Remodeling
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,886
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
Use 3/8" and tear-away. Its consumes alot of spackle doing a job like this. You say your not gutting it but if pull out plaster and left the lath in place. You can slip in whatever thickness in rock it takes to fill voids. The trim can stay like this as well. If it gypsun over plaster board then forget it.
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#9 | |
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Commercial Contractor
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!Isn't that an oxymoron??
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Quote:
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#10 |
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Golf Guy
Trade: Locksmith & Home Improvements
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Middletown, Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
Thanks guys for the input! BIG HELP!
I was on the right track.Pat Reider's Home Improvements |
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#11 |
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Pro
Trade: drywall contractor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 837
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!
Hey Brokster. You are a smart man. I have never thought of using half of the tape like you mentioned. That's a great idea! I'm stealing your idea.
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#12 | |
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The Deck Guy
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Re: Don't Remove The Trim!!!Quote:
Thanks.
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