Does Anyone Use The Duratape Wet&Stick Joint Tape?

Adv.wall.tech

I order a roll a week ago from the UK (i 'm from eastern europe) and i got to try it out a few days ago. first let me say that we don't use paper tape and mud on the joints but the self adhesive mesh tape. it's way faster(no mud used to glue it to the wall) but has major disadvantages compared to the paper tape. (you don't get clean edges and most of the times you need an extra coat to finish it plus it is not as strong as paper tape).

Anyway , the point is the Wet&Stick tape combines the best things in the 2 systems. All you need is clean water and it's ready for first coat in 1 hour .You don't need the Bazoka and save mud too. It's great on the internal 90's !!!!

I have tried it on several surfaces to test the bonding strength , from sleek wall tiles to textured wall and it's amazing !!! after it was dry i couldn't remove it anymore not even after damping it .

I'm just wondering how is it going to behave in time ?! So if anyone is using it please feel free to share your opinions .

Al Taper

A Guy called me the other day about Duratape. The guy was from New Jersey. He sent me a free roll. I will try it. I think it would be good when it comes to fire taping.

Brocktologist

Junk...

precisionbuild

This.

precisionbuild

I would rather use mesh and easysand than this crappy product. But, I almost exclusively use paper tape. The paper tape is best best because you WANT mud under the tape bonding it to the drywall, and you WANT the mud to squeeze in the crack to bind the 2 sheets or pieces together. That is where it gets it's strength as a system.

Adv.wall.tech

just make sure the tape makes full contact with the board ! i've heard many guys complaining about how the wet-n-stick tapes blister after 2-nd coat. i don't know the quality of other wet-n-stick tapes but as i see it the only problem is with the person applying it ! you need to change the way you see taping. if with a bazoka the tape gets mud under it and FILLS the gap bettwen the boards , with the wet-n-stick is up to you to make sure the tape makes full contact with the board by PRESSING the center section inside the gap with your finger and only after that press the sides of the tape to the board. only by doing this you make sure that after it's dry it won't hang loose down the middle and blister !

you can check the video on the website for other tips. i hope you'll like the duratape as much as i do .

Brocktologist

Junk.

precisionbuild

To each their own is all I say.

But it is NOT binding the two sheets together to make it one. Ever tear out walls and look on the backside of the sheets on the other side of the wall. Look at the way the mud squeezes through. That's where the strength comes from. The paper is also formulated to be just like the drywall paper and to bind with it through the use of the mud to make it a solid sheet.

If I was to not hang the board and just put on your tape, I could pick up the assembly and your would flex, hinge and wave in the air. That is not bound together together. My way would not flex, hinge and swing. It would be one piece.

precisionbuild

In commercial, we hang board directly to to CMU all the time using mud to attach it to the wall. It can be some of the hardest board to demo. Drywall mud is stronger than most realize.

Adv.wall.tech

it's not MY tape ! it just gave it a trial and i said it before , i was interested to know how it's going to behave in time . I don't have the experience you have but most important a don't have the materials you have. (i live and work in eastern europe but i did work for 2 years in the US ).

would you say mesh tape and mud is a better choice than wet-n-stick? isn't wet-n-stick a good choice for internal 90's?

thanks for your time.

precisionbuild

Mesh and easysand or durabond would be sufficient. I don't know what I'd use for inside angles if I didn't have paper, no-coat, ultraflex or equivalent. It's hard for me to believe your options of materials are so limited that you can get mesh and wet-n-stick, but not paper. Not calling you a liar, but it is strange.

Adv.wall.tech

Paper i can get , but i can't get a ready mix mud like USG and i have have to use powder and water ... don't laugh pls ... and i can't spend my money on a bazoka if i'm going to clean it every hour because of the mud i have.
so you see why it is easier to buy wet-n-stick even if i get it from the US or Uk and pay for shipping but shipping a bucket of mud from US is . Yap , belive it or not !

precisionbuild

I'm not laughing. That sucks.

Tony M

I use Wet and Stick for the internals on window reveals and for remedial works on pipe casings etc. I always fill the screw heads and any gaps larger than 2-3mm with filler first, or you will get a hollow underneath. I then give it one coat of Easifill 20 or 45, and a good coat of joint cement to finish. Never had a problem with it cracking or delaminating.

Adv.wall.tech

but do you use it on flat joints to ?
are we talking about Duratape brand or some other brand?

Tony M

I don't use it on flat joints. I don't like the idea of it there. I use mesh and Easifill to 1st coat flats and butts.

AVALANCHE

As for being a union contractor in the USA, i have found that using Wet n Stick from (Duratape) in New Jersey. This tape save's you time and money, aliminating the first coat of mud is a big saving's. We have reduced our cost, by about 1/3 third the time on taping with having to only use Wet n Stick and water. On our last office building job we saved 203 buckets of mud and over 370 labor hours. We give this product!!! ALL THE WAY TO THE BANK.