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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: Drywall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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DIY Butt Splicers
Does anyone know how to make home made butt splicers? They can't be that difficult as the Rock Splicer looks pretty simple. However, I can't get them in my area unless I order them from Wilco and the S/H is atrocious. I read a post that said an article had been published in the "Tips and Tricks" section of a popular home building magazine with instructions for making your own. I don't know the name of the magazine, though. If you make your own and are willing to share your design with me let me know. Otherwise, if anyone could offer generalities like type and width of wood to use, type, width and thickness of strips to use on the ends that would be most helpful!
Thanks in advance, - Bodrey |
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#2 |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Read here:
http://www.contractortalk.com/showth...splicer&page=2 There is another thread too, do some searches.
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#3 |
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Member
Trade: Drywall
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 41
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Rip 3/8 or 7/16 osb 5 inches wide staple of better yet glue 2 drywall shims or similar material along each edge..done! Or you could use the Buttaper
5Star |
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#4 |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
This was the part I was referring to
O.K. If you look at metal tracks they use for metal stud you will notice the ends have a round to them that is lower than the middle. This works only on ceilings. If you break the joints between studs and run a metal track cut about 52" long you can secure the track above and below the seam.Now when you screw off the butt joint to the middle of the track. Those little tabs keep the board level but since the middle is higher it brings the joint up. The result is when you stand up the blade to check the hump you should have what resembles a tapered fill because the ends of the boards went slightly up. If done right you can coat like a seam. Just check the ceilings for the best place to break. This also saves time because you can run full sheets and not cut half the boards. This does'nt work on walls because you can't secure the track as well. But the joints on walls are usually over doors or windows cutting them in half anyway. BUTCHERMAN Some where in that mess are variations on the theme of 5Star.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to neolitic For This Useful Post: | Mudshark (01-30-2012) |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: DRYWALL PROFESSIONAL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: BLAKESLEE P.A
Posts: 886
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Thanks for saving me the post
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#6 | |
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Registered User
Trade: Drywall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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Re: DIY Butt SplicersQuote:
Regardless of which method you use (Rock Splicer, EZ-Backer or ButtHanger) how is it possible to splice butts properly when the edges of both boards rest against the horizontal framing members (at the tops and bottoms of walls)? Would this not prevent the panels from recessing? How do you get around that? |
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#7 |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Just place the joint between the
joist/studs.
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#8 |
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Registered User
Trade: Drywall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
No, Neo. I understand the placing of the joints between the studs. I'm talking about where the board and horizontal framing members meet at the top (or bottom) of the wall.
Look at the first and second frames in the "How To Install" at the Rocksplicer web site: The board and horizontal framing member meet at the top of the wall... I'm guessing the taper on the long edge of the board (where it overlaps the horizontal framing member) compensates for the board being pulled in by the Rock Splicer(?). I didn't think the board would have that much "give" to it but because the joint falls midway between the studs I suppose it's possible. |
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#9 |
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Curmudgeon
Trade: carpentry/remodeling/"Yes M'am we do"
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 11,707
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
I see what you mean...top and sole plates.
I have only used them on ceiling repairs... taking out partition walls, etc, where I'm trying to save as much existing as possible. Never came up, maybe Brockster, or Butcherman, or others will come to the rescue.
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#10 |
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Profit is not dirty.
Trade: Residential Drywall and Taping
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Prince George BC Canada
Posts: 420
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
The butt splisers seem intresting...i have never used them. My worry would be if someone hit the wall in that exact spot would it crack,,, and would it pull out from the top or bottom ancoring drywall. I can see how it would save materials, but the cost of approx 5.00 each as compaired to doing the job to the studs or trussèsé joist...after all we get paid by the sheet or foot.
Just my thoughts...i could see that they would work if you were short material and needed one.. Jay
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#11 |
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Pro
Trade: Residential Remodeling
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 407
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
The top and bottom of the wall are tapered edges usually. Also the base molding or crown molding hid this and the Corner tape fills the area and straightens it out.
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#12 |
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Pro
Trade: DRYWALL PROFESSIONAL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: BLAKESLEE P.A
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
You don't use butt splicers on walls. Just ceilings. Most butts on walls break over and under windows. Not that big a deal. On the ceilings they tend to show up more. Splicing or tracking is worth the effort there.
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#13 |
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Registered User
Trade: Drywall
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Interesting then that the Rock Splicer illustrations show it being installed on a wall and not a ceiling. Can anyone say "misleading"? The web site for the Buttboard goes a step further stating "Perfectly Flat Walls". What a crock...
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#14 |
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Pro
Trade: Residential Remodeling
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 407
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
You certainly DO use butt splicer devices on walls, regardless of the brand. One specific application is for areas where a counter top or cabinets are going to be placed. This way you will have less scribing to deal with when you do the top or hang the cabinets.
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#15 |
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Pro
Trade: DRYWALL PROFESSIONAL
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
Sorry for the confusion. Maybe i should have stated this better (i just didn't want to be long winded). The point i was trying to make was it's not practical to use them on walls since most of those joint usually get buried behind cabinets or over and under doors and windows. Yes they can be used on walls. I just don't believe in these cases they are cost efficient. Ceilings tend to show more than walls. So that's why i said to use them there. I also said you don't use them on walls not you can't use them on walls.
Last edited by BUTCHERMAN; 07-17-2008 at 02:32 PM. |
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#16 |
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Pro
Trade: Residential Remodeling
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 407
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
i see, but either way, can't or don't are both wrong.
The other main place they are used on walls is the top of the two story vaults that get raked by clerestory windows. |
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#17 |
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Pro
Trade: DRYWALL PROFESSIONAL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: BLAKESLEE P.A
Posts: 886
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
I respectfully dissagree. It's just my personal prefrence. If it works for you great. I just chose a different approach that doesn't make it wrong.
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#18 | |
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Pro
Trade: Residential Remodeling
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 407
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Re: DIY Butt SplicersQuote:
So you can't or You Don't are both wrong terms be cause I DO and CAN use them on walls as DO many OTHERS. YOU don't and that is fine and no problem for us. |
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#19 |
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Pro
Trade: DRYWALL PROFESSIONAL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: BLAKESLEE P.A
Posts: 886
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Re: DIY Butt Splicers
You should be a school teacher
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